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1. I wasnt satisfied with certain areas of the seat hoop (too short), my lady wants to ride with me sometimes so needed to start all over with the rear frame and will have some new updated pics soon.........this is what has been holding me back for a little while from posting plus an overload at work
2. Finally got my rear hub back from the machine shop!!!
And had some time between cutting and grinding to get some paint stripper on the tank, need to get it ready to have the badge area filled in and I think I am going to old school and lead fill it instead of bondo
Update,
newer and longer hoop welded into place along with shock mount points tacked in place. Also got my spoke adapter rings for my front and rear hubs, and the final pic with my new rear disk setup...........still need to finish the area for my rear sets and mounting points for the rear master brake cylinder
Hey Maritime,
the boost in the motor comes in the way of getting rid of the CDI ignition box and replacing it with an Ignitech unit which means I have a more reliable ignition box that I can tune in the spark advance and retard, but the Mikuni VM34's I have are adding a lot more getup and go!! Plus a more free flowing exhaust.........all in all it adds a 10 to 13hp boost. The Mikuni Kit is from a guy named Murray who is a CX nut and has created a bolt on kit with new intake runners and the crabs are all pre tuned, you just need to install and have fun. There really isnt much more you can do to a CX motor unless you are willing to spend thousands, this is the best bang for buck
Update,
i managed to get some more welding time in and finished boxing in the shock mounts but I am not sure if I should smooth out the welds or leave it as is............what do you guys think?? Opinions are really welcomed ( I am new to TIG welding so I know it isnt a work of perfection )
Also,
I stuck the front end back in and hung the motor because I need to start fabricating a linkage from rear sets to shifter and rear brake master cylinder
And lastly, I think the overall stance will be exactly what I was going for.........still so much to get done and waiting for the PCer to get my front and rear hubs back so I can send them to Buchanons for spokes and rims
So the new carbs can I use it with my air box or would I have to go pods? Also if you don't mind how much was the carb set up, I just got a cx c. I'm doing little mods but that carb set up might be next.
With the new carbs I am running pods from MikesXS as they do not have an internal lip that restricts or disturbs flow........I dont know if it can be run with the stock box?? I do know it sounds like it will eat the pods its so hungry, AND it hauls ass
I paid $600 for it, the kit comes with 2 tuned intake runners, 2 VM34 Mikuni carbs all set up and jetted, 2 pods, and a new 2 into 1 throttle cable. You can find more info on the CXforum
Hey 50gary,
I read some of your postings on the CX forum but I dont think we ever had a conversation, but I do need to thank you because its your idea that I took and made one for myself...........I thought it was in the spirit of Cafe ing a bike and an awesome upgrade!
I found when machining the hub, you need to be careful as to how much material you remove to have the adapter sit flat in the hub, I went a little too far on the first one and luckily had another lying around to work on
Go for it, I always encourage guys to use my ideas, it actually flattering. Everyone shares and that's the spirit of building. Looking good.
Cheers, 50gary
PS make sure you remove the cross tube under the bike. The one that houses the brake rod (transverse) and holds the side stand. You must relocate the side stand but that's not so bad you can make a lighter one.
I was just looking at that. I think I may do the same. no real need for the center stand on a shaft bike, I can carry a small block of wood to level it with the sidestand to check the oil. any weight saved is worth it.
Right on the money, I use a paddock stand for the garage work. That (paddock stand) can also be a bit fussy on the CX with the straight tube on the left side swingarm and the driveshaft on the right. I used the lower shock mounts for the lift points. Lathe turn some spools and longer shock bolts on the left. The right side again is more work with an extension required to clear the drive unit. It's worth it, less weight, a much cleaner look, and more ground clearance in the turns. It also shows a "finished job" to clean up all the un-used details when converting to a cafe type bike. Right now I'm building a single rotor front for my Yamaha RT conversion so I had to remove the caliper lugs on the un-used fork leg. some guys don't don't remove passenger pegs when going to a solo seat and that always looks unfinished to me? Please excuse my pontificating ha ha.
Cheers, 50gary
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