So I'm not getting any spark on my bike and I'm starting to get a little stumped. I replaced the battery and charged it on a trickle charge like it says. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug caps. The wires to the spark plug look good so I didn't mess with them besides cutting about a 1/4 inch off to install the new caps. I bought new points and gapped them. The bike shop didn't have the condensers so I couldn't replace them. They visually look very clean but I'm not sure how to test them to see if they're good or not. The ignition coils visually look clean too but again, I don't know how to test them. I have a multi-meter but I'm not very familiar with it, to be honest. The starter button is gone on the bike. The guy broke it off or something. The headlight high-low beam switch is gone too. It'll be something I have to fix at some point, but for now I can only kick start. I understand that there's a starter fuse somewhere on the bike. I haven't found it or really searched for it yet. Could that be stopping me from getting spark? Logic tells me that would only deal with the electric starter so it shouldn't be stopping me, but am I wrong? If it does factor in, then where is the fuse? I think that's about it. Thanks for the help guys. You've been a life saver more than once already.
No Spark CB350f
- Thread starter drh994
- Start date
djelliott
Real bikes are built in garages.
Hmmm, many possibilities. Let's start with a simple one. Is your kill switch functioning properly? A simple voltage test will due to test it.
1. Unplug the black wire with the white stripe going to your coils.
2. Turn your ignition on and turn the kill switch to the on or run position.
3. Set your multimeter to the 20 volt DC range. You should be read 12+ volts on the multi meter. Actually more like 13.5 or so.
Check it out and get back to us.
1. Unplug the black wire with the white stripe going to your coils.
2. Turn your ignition on and turn the kill switch to the on or run position.
3. Set your multimeter to the 20 volt DC range. You should be read 12+ volts on the multi meter. Actually more like 13.5 or so.
Check it out and get back to us.
I finally got around to testing those wires. The black/white wire that seems to be going into the coil, the female connection on the wire, had about 12v going into both sides. I'm not sure if there's suppose to be power on the male side, the side of the wire coming out of the coil, doesn't have any power coming out of either of them. My hunch says it's not suppose to though. So if there's power going into the coil from that wire, where do I go next to get spark into the bike?
) See if you can see a spark.
kopcicle
antidisestablishmentarian
Well the manual doesn't do a very good job of explaining this so ...
Set one set of points to the proper gap and place a dwell meter on that set of points and take down the reading .
(doesn't really matter what the number is or how many cylinders because you are going to make the other set the same . Just pick a setting that gives you a reading around mid scale)
Now get the bike running and set the other set of points to the same reading .
Ok now the almost kinda tricky part . Connect a timing light to the bike and moving the entire breaker plate assembly place the timing mark (usually for 1 & 4 ) within the 1/8" or so that is the full advance mark .
You will notice that one set of points is "usually" solidly connected to the breaker plate assembly (again usually 1&4 but not always ) and the other set (2&3) will move not only in advance and retard but in gap also .
Switch the timing light to 2&3 and again place the mark in the 1/8" that is full advance .
go back and check dwell for both 1&4 and 2&3 . if the dwell and the timing is reasonably the same for each set within a couple of degrees you are done .
Special cases . On older bikes the advance mechanism may have been abused and even though the timing is correct at full advance the static or full retarded timing may be way late . limiting the advance by adding a bit of metal to the advance stoppers is preferred to attempting to bend them as they often break . Worn or loose advance springs will cause indistinct timing at just off idle to around 2,200 hundred rpm .
Adjust the valves . I can't repeat this often enough . Adjust the valves or all the work that goes into adjusting the timing has little or no effect on performance . By nature of the shim under bucket arrangement that Kawasaki used for the 650 and 750 they get neglected . Find either a reputable mechanic with a proven record with older bikes or attempt or your self . Just get it right .
Some but not all of the 650's had three adjustable carbs and one fixed , others had idle and air screws and some had accelerator pumps . All require different procedures for adjustment . How ever if the valve adjust is correct and the timing is spot on the carb sync should be a breeze . Have a talk with the folks around WiredGeorge before you mangle anything in and or around your carbs . if your manifolds are rotten and cracked talk to Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Specializing in Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Parts Jeff and Co. will be more than happy to get you the right parts . Almost forgot . Get a trickle charger for the thing . The early charging systems arn't near as efficient as the newer models . They work and they are durable they just don't have great output .
~kop
this was originally written for KZed 650 but I'm sure you get the important bits
Set one set of points to the proper gap and place a dwell meter on that set of points and take down the reading .
(doesn't really matter what the number is or how many cylinders because you are going to make the other set the same . Just pick a setting that gives you a reading around mid scale)
Now get the bike running and set the other set of points to the same reading .
Ok now the almost kinda tricky part . Connect a timing light to the bike and moving the entire breaker plate assembly place the timing mark (usually for 1 & 4 ) within the 1/8" or so that is the full advance mark .
You will notice that one set of points is "usually" solidly connected to the breaker plate assembly (again usually 1&4 but not always ) and the other set (2&3) will move not only in advance and retard but in gap also .
Switch the timing light to 2&3 and again place the mark in the 1/8" that is full advance .
go back and check dwell for both 1&4 and 2&3 . if the dwell and the timing is reasonably the same for each set within a couple of degrees you are done .
Special cases . On older bikes the advance mechanism may have been abused and even though the timing is correct at full advance the static or full retarded timing may be way late . limiting the advance by adding a bit of metal to the advance stoppers is preferred to attempting to bend them as they often break . Worn or loose advance springs will cause indistinct timing at just off idle to around 2,200 hundred rpm .
Adjust the valves . I can't repeat this often enough . Adjust the valves or all the work that goes into adjusting the timing has little or no effect on performance . By nature of the shim under bucket arrangement that Kawasaki used for the 650 and 750 they get neglected . Find either a reputable mechanic with a proven record with older bikes or attempt or your self . Just get it right .
Some but not all of the 650's had three adjustable carbs and one fixed , others had idle and air screws and some had accelerator pumps . All require different procedures for adjustment . How ever if the valve adjust is correct and the timing is spot on the carb sync should be a breeze . Have a talk with the folks around WiredGeorge before you mangle anything in and or around your carbs . if your manifolds are rotten and cracked talk to Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Specializing in Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Parts Jeff and Co. will be more than happy to get you the right parts . Almost forgot . Get a trickle charger for the thing . The early charging systems arn't near as efficient as the newer models . They work and they are durable they just don't have great output .
~kop
this was originally written for KZed 650 but I'm sure you get the important bits
OK, so I fiddled with the bike some more. I was able to put a small screwdriver into the place where my starter button should be and it got the starter to work. I started using that instead of kick starting the bike then I could get a better look at the spark plug. I checked spark plug 3 and 4. Neither of them had a spark at all. I looked down at the points and they weren't generating any spark either. Should I replace my condensers or do you think I should replace my ignition coils? Or do you think both could be a problem?
I messed with my bike a little more today. I've been checking the points with a multi-meter. I double checked to make sure the new points are gapped right and they are. Then I checked them with a multi-meter and only the 2-3 point was getting power. The 1-4 wasn't getting any. After doing these tests and using the starter a bit, the ignition coil for 1-4 was a little warm to the touch where the 2-3 wasn't. I checked and the black/white wire was getting power to that ingition coil. Now the blue wire going to/from that ignition coil wasn't giving me anything. Does this mean that ignition coil is dead? Do I need to replace it? Or are my condensers the problem? Now I have new condensers coming in the mail. I'm still a little lost on this whole thing. I read through a website breaking down how to get your points set right a few times and I think I did it right. When he said test the point for continuity, nothing came up on 1-4 but 2-3 was good.
