No Start Checklist?
- Thread starter flip4eva83
- Start date
flip4eva83
Active Member
Hopefully (not having it at WOT) was the issue and I dont have to rebuild. IM gonna go do it right now.
flip4eva83
Active Member
Ok so now im pretty relieved, i got a 120 reading on both sides...... Im thinking that it could be more possibly due to a bad seal on compression tester O-ring, cuz I heard a slight hiss everytime I kicked it.
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
You say it does nothing when it is in neutral? Probably the resistance you feel is the transmission and back wheel. Try testing the compression with the bike in neutral, hand off of the clutch. If you build up pressure then it is turning over like it should.
Then fix your flooding carb. Then make sure the choke butterfly valves are open. Then make sure your plugs are firing. Use new plugs!
Then fix your flooding carb. Then make sure the choke butterfly valves are open. Then make sure your plugs are firing. Use new plugs!
flip4eva83
Active Member
Yeah you were right, there is around the same compression with it in neutral. The spark plugs that I pulled are NGK B7ES, the manual calls for NGK B8ES. They did put off spark, although it didnt look like a strong spark. So new plugs will get purchased tomorrow.
flip4eva83
Active Member
Ok so I couldnt wait til tomorrow to pick up some new plugs, $4 for 2 new NGK B8ES plugs. I didnt realize the ends were threaded on :
, anyways. Spark still seems weak, still doing some research on how to adjust the floats. Hopefully I can get into that carb again and get it right, the second time.
, anyways. Spark still seems weak, still doing some research on how to adjust the floats. Hopefully I can get into that carb again and get it right, the second time.
flip4eva83
Active Member
New plugs, fixed the float, full charge on battery.....turn key to on position and a buzzing sound comes from starter solenoid. I try to start it using the push starter and nothing happens (short?)...try to kick it over and still nothing.
flip4eva83
Active Member
I do have spark but it doesnt look like a strong spark.
flip4eva83
Active Member
also when I did my handlebars, I just assumed that motorcycle wiring was like car wiring. I cut the control harnesses (im very impatient) and spliced them back together. Did I F&#k it up, if so how bad.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
There are two types of kickstart, direct and indirect.
Direct drives directly onto back of clutch basket through an idler to reverse direction then to crankshaft gear
Indirect drives through transmission into clutch hub to drive plates and then through plates to clutch basket.
If you pull clutch lever, you have no drive to crankshaft.
Check points are firing the correct cylinder.
The points cam can be 180 degrees 'off' so fires left when right is in fire position. (usually happens when advancer is dismantled for cleaning/re-greasing)
Easiest check is remove plugs, remove points cover, open and close points with an insulated screwdriver.
Compression tests are done with throttle wide open.
Direct drives directly onto back of clutch basket through an idler to reverse direction then to crankshaft gear
Indirect drives through transmission into clutch hub to drive plates and then through plates to clutch basket.
If you pull clutch lever, you have no drive to crankshaft.
Check points are firing the correct cylinder.
The points cam can be 180 degrees 'off' so fires left when right is in fire position. (usually happens when advancer is dismantled for cleaning/re-greasing)
Easiest check is remove plugs, remove points cover, open and close points with an insulated screwdriver.
Compression tests are done with throttle wide open.
