Noob Checking In - Which parts to order if rebuilding engine?

M

mattfeet

Been Around the Block
Hello - Im looking at rebuilding my spare CB360T engine to drop into my bike. Id like to give it a nice once-over and replace all consumables and typical wear items. My question is, what is a good starting point for that list of parts? The bike is free, has compression, etc., so no major parts will need to be purchased. While I think it'd be cool to do the GS850 Piston Swap, Im not sure I want to get into THAT substantial of a rebuild. So, my fellow DTT'ers, what are the parts I should be looking at?

So far Im planning on:

- All gaskets
- Piston Rings
- ......?
 
you really have no idea what you may need until you get it apart.

Gaskets sets do not come with seals, so add a seal set to your list.

There are rubber oil seals under the point lid for the rocker arm shafts. these are often hardened, and will not survive a removal and replacement. They look like a rubber plug.

you won't know until you have the engine open if you need pistons or cylinder boring, so that can wait.

Points and condenser set.
Spark Plug Caps (Cheap, and they do go bad)
Carburetor Manifolds (Engine to carburetor)..They are old and hard. See my build - I just replaced mine)

I would get a complete SS stainless bolt set, about $40, changes from Philips (actually JIS) to Allen screws. Get some never-sieze for this too Alloyboltz has a nice set.

You also should get a oil filter socket...if you don't already have one. Dime city has it for $10. You can't remove the oil filter cup easily without it. Worth the $$$. MotionPro has one for $20, looks the same.

Go to Harbor Freight, either a store or online...Get a coupon, you can get a digital caliper for $9.99 and be able to reasonably accurately measure items like shims. they also have inexpensive torque wrenched. We are talking inch lbs here, so the 1/4" and or 3/8 drive is more than enough.

Get a good set of feeler gauges, and a very good set of snap ring pliers.

That and a good set of metric tools will get you going.

Takes lots of pictures, not only for our entertainment, but if you take good one,s, you won't be asking "where does this piece go?" as much.
 
Just rebuilt my CB550, add snap ring pliers and assembly lube to that list. potentially Valve stoppers. Might want to also consider one of the allen head bolt kits- I had to cut out 3 of those damn philip head out, DimeCityCycles had pretty much everything I needed. Good Luck!
 
Everything starting here...and a tube of Zpaste assembly lube. (mentioned later during my 360 rebuild)

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=27417.170
 
I know its long and full of bull shit, but read through the entire rebuild before you start and you will be an expert. (before you get greasy, and pissed off). There is a lot of great info from alot of great guys.

ALSO Mydlyfkryzis has several good points. get the filter socket and the other stuff he mentions.
 
Thanks for all the insight, fellas. Trek - I read through your entire rebuild. Im still not 100% sure which direction I want to go. My engine now runs well, but it's getting a constant oil leak off the top most part of the engine, just under the tappet covers. Im planning on getting a gasket kit and I think that should solve my oil leak issue. So, at the end of the day, Im not sure if I need to completely rebuild the spare or just re-gasket mine and get everything tidied up without REALLY tearing into it. Hmm...

-Matt
 
Thats a long freakin read.

Head cover doesnt have a gasket. Only Hondabond. clean surfaces spotless, dry w brake cleaner, acetone, etc and a lint free rag. apply it thin and even w a small brush. so you dont squeeze much of a bead into the engine, or around cam bearing surfaces. fill the tubs w oil, and torque cover to specs. double check to make sure its not simply the tach cable seal thats leaking.
 
Cant remember if you need it on the 360 but on the 350 you need a wrench to remove Rotor and starting clutch. The rear axle on most hondas is actually an exact fit tho so you can use that instead. The oil filter socket is a must. I cut one out of a cheapo socket but for the price just buy it.
 
Heres the one I made in my panic...it worked and yes, it did suck. just buy the damned thing.
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The little breather cover on the very top of head cover does have a gasket.
if you DO use the SS bolt kit. Be sure to apply plenty of thread sealant. To avoid galling.
 
Yea, I've read that the galling can be a big issue if you don't prepare for it. What would other people do? My bike runs well (left side hotter than right, but still runs well) so I dont know if I need to do a COMPLETE teardown or just a top-end refresh.

-Matt
 
mattfeet said:
(left side hotter than right, but still runs well)
Click to expand...

could be a fuel issue or timing. but if you think it runs well, probably fuel. what is the temp difference? do you have a non contact gun? mine runs tween 480 - 510 degrees on the headers. never more than a 15 degree difference left or right.
 
I do not have a temp gun. I just know since my (brand new) MAC 2-1 header is A LOT more blued on the left side than right.

-Matt
 
If it's running OK don't mess with it.
Change the oil and clean it up.
If you must get inside motor, just remove clutch cover and clean out filter
 
Ok, now Im somewhat considering doing the 378CC mod on my spare 360 motor. Is there a shopping list floating around for that build?

-Matt
 
It's getting difficult to find GS850 pistons, apart from those, you need a 1/16" copper head gasket and 1/32" base gasket (or reverse head/base) I prefer head gasket to be thicker though
 
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