oohhh god oooooh god panicing.

Good to hear everything is workin out for ya Mike. Like everybody else said - lesson learned

And for anybody that read my earlier post - I don't recommend or condone that, just telling a story that was told to me.
 
mikeadamstattoo said:
boomshakalaka said:
meh.. just live and let live. The guy is obviously not someone you want to associate with or interact with, so just move on.
[/quote

right, im not the revenge type of guy. i learned my lesson and i dont associate with people like that.

on a good note, a professional came today to pick my bike up and i told him the story and we had a good laugh about it. ill have my cables redone next week, and when i get it back, ill mount my seat and my new tank, wire up my new lights and be zippin from cafe to cafe by march!

+1 with Boom. I'm not so vengeful as some of our more mischievous members, but I would still spread word around. I think that is at least warranted. ;)
 
Big R said:
You guys are evil! A friend of mine is a cop and he said the best revenge for somebody like that is to call the police from a payphone (good luck finding one), say that a woman is being beaten at the guys address, and get the hell out of there. If somebody is in distress the police don't have to knock on the door, they can let themselves in. And if there are some drugs laying about in plain sight, they can bust him on that.

That is best case scenario. More than likely cops knock on door, talk to guy, find no lady leave.

Worst case, cops bust in, bust guy, guy beats case because of illegal search and seizure. Hopefully they don't ask who may be mad enough at him to unleash the law, then a few pissed cops may be knocking on your door.

I know of at least one case of a guy going down for false report. Some guys might take it personally when you waste their time and resources. I go with live and let die. Sounds like the trash will take itself out eventually, know what I mean?
 
CresentSon said:
That is best case scenario. More than likely cops knock on door, talk to guy, find no lady leave.

Worst case, cops bust in, bust guy, guy beats case because of illegal search and seizure. Hopefully they don't ask who may be mad enough at him to unleash the law, then a few pissed cops may be knocking on your door.

I know of at least one case of a guy going down for false report. Some guys might take it personally when you waste their time and resources. I go with live and let die. Sounds like the trash will take itself out eventually, know what I mean?

I think the worst case scenario is cops bust down his door, mistake the tv remote in his hand for a gun, and shoot the jerk. Have fun letting your conscience swallow that pill..


And ya, biker_reject, I completely agree. Spreading the word is not so much vengeful as it is doing a service to the community.
 
Dude- roll of masking tape: label each cable and then, one at a time, move the cables. You're going to need to learn this one on your own, as you'll eventually have one snap, etc. Not a major repair. Brakes are something I'd refer to a 'professional'. Do you have a manual? If not, pick one up. No sense on blowing money you don't have to and dealing with anymore 'professionals' ;).
 
Yeah.... I'm still with the poop in the mailbox. That's just plain funny. Plus it could make his pills taste like shit.
 
mike, you're in michigan right?

1. buy a trailer or have some method to move your bike around besides pushing. a friends pickup with a ramp is sufficient. or a simple 1 rail trailer is cheap. craigslist.

2..*** never drop off a bike to someone that you havent seen work go through before.*** if you go there a week later, and still see the same bikes in the same shape, then nothing has happened. your bike is gonna be in the same boat. no one that charges should be paid a penny up front, unless you are doing an entire resto job that may require multiple thousands of dollars in parts. then you might be asked to put 10-20% up front.

3. $200 is insane. I dont make my living as a mechanic. this is 12 pack work. unless you're a dick. most people who do this type of vintage bike work do not do it to make money. I dont work on bikes post 1980, i work only on bikes that interest me. my choice. I also dont charge, but you need to know that your crappy-ass bike has less priority than my crappy-ass bike that I am currently working on. unless you are onsite, your bike doesnt get worked on. you get what you pay for. I dont know everything about every bike, but i know a ton of shit about a ton of shit.

4. if you are not a good mechanic, and are going to work outside of the normal bike shop world(recommended), then find someone who will do the work with you and help you figure it out.. they're out there. I do it. motorcycles are both incredibly complicated and not complicated at the same time. find someone who has an interest in showing you how to do the work. this will make your life easier.you shouldnt pay for simple work twice. I have a mentor that does the same thing I do, but a lot better. it sounds like you are dedicated to motorcycle stuff., maybe you need to spend some time with a vintage mechanic. you need to find that in your neighborhood.

5. typically, the older guys, and the older offroad/onroad racers will be much better mechanics. i chuckle at the "never raced" bikes for sale. I want a bike that is raced every weekend. the racer relies on that bike, and maintains it. the average joe never maintains a bike as well.

5. lesson #1. buy the cheapest full size rusted piece of crap you can find(<$100). tear it apart. part it down to little bitty pieces. repeat until you understand how it works.


so that's my post. i'll go back to buffing my motobi 250 cafe project now.
 
i agree with you on that one. im new to street motorcycles, and i DO want to learn as much as i can about them. my 550 is a bit intimidating on some stuff. thats why i bought my cl125 to restore myself. its lighter and simpler so i can learn.
 
motorusti said:
mike, you're in michigan right?

1. buy a trailer or have some method to move your bike around besides pushing. a friends pickup with a ramp is sufficient. or a simple 1 rail trailer is cheap. craigslist.

2..*** never drop off a bike to someone that you havent seen work go through before.*** if you go there a week later, and still see the same bikes in the same shape, then nothing has happened. your bike is gonna be in the same boat. no one that charges should be paid a penny up front, unless you are doing an entire resto job that may require multiple thousands of dollars in parts. then you might be asked to put 10-20% up front.

3. $200 is insane. I dont make my living as a mechanic. this is 12 pack work. unless you're a dick. most people who do this type of vintage bike work do not do it to make money. I dont work on bikes post 1980, i work only on bikes that interest me. my choice. I also dont charge, but you need to know that your crappy-ass bike has less priority than my crappy-ass bike that I am currently working on. unless you are onsite, your bike doesnt get worked on. you get what you pay for. I dont know everything about every bike, but i know a ton of shit about a ton of shit.

4. if you are not a good mechanic, and are going to work outside of the normal bike shop world(recommended), then find someone who will do the work with you and help you figure it out.. they're out there. I do it. motorcycles are both incredibly complicated and not complicated at the same time. find someone who has an interest in showing you how to do the work. this will make your life easier.you shouldnt pay for simple work twice. I have a mentor that does the same thing I do, but a lot better. it sounds like you are dedicated to motorcycle stuff., maybe you need to spend some time with a vintage mechanic. you need to find that in your neighborhood.

5. typically, the older guys, and the older offroad/onroad racers will be much better mechanics. i chuckle at the "never raced" bikes for sale. I want a bike that is raced every weekend. the racer relies on that bike, and maintains it. the average joe never maintains a bike as well.

5. lesson #1. buy the cheapest full size rusted piece of crap you can find(<$100). tear it apart. part it down to little bitty pieces. repeat until you understand how it works.


so that's my post. i'll go back to buffing my motobi 250 cafe project now.
Great advice!
 
mikeadamstattoo said:
i agree with you on that one. im new to street motorcycles, and i DO want to learn as much as i can about them. my 550 is a bit intimidating on some stuff. thats why i bought my cl125 to restore myself. its lighter and simpler so i can learn.

then do it yourself!! cables are really not that hard and very hard to F-up just take them off and reroute them till you are happy with the astetics and function.

FYI.....the clutch cable should run to the right side of the fram to keep the bend nice and smooth and the throttle cable should run to the left side of the frame for te same reason. just dont tie them up tight to the frame and dont make harsh bends, once you have them on we can help you adjust them properly.
 
This whole post is a joke right?!?!? ??? You actually are willing to pay someone to re-route your cables and put on handlebars?!

Even if you are intimidated and scared to do it yourself, maybe next time you should just start out by asking for help on this board. There might be a member that is only a few minutes away that would be willing to help you.

I not trying to bust your balls, but man use your head. I understand that if you haven't done it before it can be intimidating but have you ever looked at the service techs at the local stealerships...I mean come on not exactly rocket scientists.

I started doing my own maintenance when I got tired of the half ass quality of the stealership techs. Remember, they are using the same service manuals that you have access to and you will be more careful when doing the service because it is your butt that will be slidding down the road if you do it wrong. If they do it wrong they don't care because it is your problem not theirs.

Sorry but it is just my honest opinion...rant is over.
 
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