captain awesome
Active Member
I know this is Scramble budget, but what about Ti for weight reduction?
Ozark Mtn Scramble Build - CB350
- Thread starter SlipstreamCycle
- Start date
captain awesome
Active Member
Whoops...
SlipstreamCycle
New Member
I have give that some thought, but for this build it will be stainless. I will weigh the bike when I am done and post before and after weight, I am using stainless drive shafts from the 200+ hp Mercury outboard motors and it is very high quality steel, allowing me to come back from the thread end of my bolts and drill down to the head to remove weight. I bet the bike is going to be lighter than most may think. I have a Salt Flats build making circles in my head and that one will be every nut, bolt, and washer made with weight and strength first then looks.captain awesome said:
captain awesome
Active Member
From what I understand(very little), the salt doesn't care how much weight you lose, and sometimes requires more to get a good top speed. You lose acceleration speed, but not top speed.
SlipstreamCycle
New Member
Acceleration speed wont matter there for sure. I have just started kicking some of that around and it will take several trips out to see what does and does not work. I have some very cool stories on Don Vesco's streamliner in some 1969 cycle world mags, very detailed and lots of pics. Hope to do something old school like that, link two small motors and go fast! He was using some light weight items though.
captain awesome
Active Member
SlipstreamCycle said:
It's on my bucket list as well. I originally wanted to try out the cb350 drag bike once we get it finished on the salt, but I don't have a clue where to start on that.
SlipstreamCycle
New Member
I have had a few questions about some of the parts I am building for the bike so I will show a little more detail of the them as I build. The first thing I did after making a quick drawing was to square up a block of aluminum that would make two sets
then I drilled all of the holes in the block and tapped the ends for the adjuster screws
next, I milled the slots in both sides where the adjuster slides onto the frame
after all of the holes were drilled and the slots milled out the four parts were cut out on a band saw and then set up on the rotary table for the radius and tapers to be machined
the parts then had a small 45 degree angle machined all the way around them and will be left with this finish until the bike is ready for final assembly, where they will be polished before they are installed.
they are machined from 6061 aluminum and a small weight savings over the stock ones.
