Painting over chrome (wheels, fenders. etc.) or powder coat?
- Thread starter edelweiss
- Start date
ILoveThumpers
Everywhere is thumpers!
Quite a few "pro" shops I've dealt with like to talk about powder coating as if it's a black art that only they understand. And since only they hold this knowledge, you must pay dearly for it.
Those shops are the reason I started doing it myself.
Don't get me wrong, certain situations can be tricky, but let's get one thing clear: steel parts are cake. Once you understand prep work and start using the right materials and equipment, steel parts are freaking easy. Call it "hang & bang" if you like; but that's all that's required.
When coaters start in with the "oh but we have to blast it a certain way with a certain media or the powder won't stick" and "well if you want anything other than the 14 colors we keep in stock it's going to be an extra $100" or my favorite "we won't do part X because of the liability if it fails" (usually aluminum parts) that's when I walk.
Look, I'm no expert. I've shot maybe 100lbs of powder total but if I can do quality parts in an oven I built with an Eastwood gun I got for $100, any professional shop with Wagner Pro equipment and PLC controlled ovens can do better, more efficiently. I should mention that I've never, NEVER had a part coating fail. Not once. Hundreds of parts. No failures. If I can pull that off in my freaking basement, and freely share the knowledge of how to do that, I will.
I'm not saying anything about any of the coaters that might be here... I've never done business with any of them nor do I pay attention to anything they're posting so don't take any of that personally. But if you're openly trying to screw or misinform someone, you bet your ass I'm going to call you out. Fair warning.
-Deek
Those shops are the reason I started doing it myself.
Don't get me wrong, certain situations can be tricky, but let's get one thing clear: steel parts are cake. Once you understand prep work and start using the right materials and equipment, steel parts are freaking easy. Call it "hang & bang" if you like; but that's all that's required.
When coaters start in with the "oh but we have to blast it a certain way with a certain media or the powder won't stick" and "well if you want anything other than the 14 colors we keep in stock it's going to be an extra $100" or my favorite "we won't do part X because of the liability if it fails" (usually aluminum parts) that's when I walk.
Look, I'm no expert. I've shot maybe 100lbs of powder total but if I can do quality parts in an oven I built with an Eastwood gun I got for $100, any professional shop with Wagner Pro equipment and PLC controlled ovens can do better, more efficiently. I should mention that I've never, NEVER had a part coating fail. Not once. Hundreds of parts. No failures. If I can pull that off in my freaking basement, and freely share the knowledge of how to do that, I will.
I'm not saying anything about any of the coaters that might be here... I've never done business with any of them nor do I pay attention to anything they're posting so don't take any of that personally. But if you're openly trying to screw or misinform someone, you bet your ass I'm going to call you out. Fair warning.
-Deek
71ae2812fe
First time builder learning all from youtube
Anybody have any experience with
Dupli-Color Shadow Chrome Black-Out CoatingI'm probably going to do this to my chrome rims instead of sanding, blasting, coating, or spraying.
Dupli-Color Shadow Chrome Black-Out CoatingI'm probably going to do this to my chrome rims instead of sanding, blasting, coating, or spraying.
SASO Racing
Been Around the Block
Toxic Motorwerks said:
With all the info on this forum on your fingertips you should get out of the habbit of rattle cans. Rattle can paint is never going to be as good as real paint thats pro quality at a paint shop. Rattle can paint is good because its easy to remove. It will always be more expensive and never look as good.
Say NO to rattle cans!
