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We have the harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner use it for everything it's amazing we have 50% simple green and 50% water disassemble the carb drop it in there for
10 minutes take it out wash
out with carb cleaner you 're done...you will save money on this he chemical in the long run.
Thanks guys, I was going to go the ultrasonic route to begin with, but I heads don't put rubber in there- and I can't figure out how to get the dang choke assembly apart and out of the carb body and there's a rubber grommet on there. I can just about get the choke slide out but the lever won't pull out of the carb body.
Anyway, the parts diagram doesn't help either because it shows that entire assembly left in the carb.
Looks like I may have a stripped screw there on the end?
Rubber parts in carb cleaner - not good. In Ultrasonics OK.
That shaft just pulls out. Might need a slight tap, but not much more. Getting it back is a bit of a fiddle until you work out the trick and then it's like "what too me so long".
Rubber parts in carb cleaner - not good. In Ultrasonics OK.
That shaft just pulls out. Might need a slight tap, but not much more. Getting it back is a bit of a fiddle until you work out the trick and then it's like "what too me so long".
Wow, this is a thing of beauty. Ricks cb175 rebuilt stator. New wires too. Matt, this will make it easier on us to solve the wiring instead of those three "white/brown" wires!!
Great thread, I have had this one bookmarked and have been following it for quite some time.
Is there a thread about having a stator rebuilt by a company like Ricks? If there isn't that may be a good idea to share your experience with some of the newbs that may find it a little overwhelming.
Great thread, I have had this one bookmarked and have been following it for quite some time.
Is there a thread about having a stator rebuilt by a company like Ricks? If there isn't that may be a good idea to share your experience with some of the newbs that may find it a little overwhelming.
About the stator, that's a great idea. I'll put a write up in the "approved vendor" section of the forum. It really was easy - yank it out, send it in, pay $175 and viola! The only bad thing I have to say is that they tried to sell me their R/R pretty hard, but they're a functioning business and I don't blame them.
I think I finally got a configuration that works with the frame and won't leak air. 1.25" radiator hose as an extension with the steel dragon performance stack cut off and inserted.
Indeed. I may do that as a long term solution but I'm pretty happy with this! It's not hitting the frame now, and that tube is flexible. I need to get a prefilter on there.
Ok guys, tell me what you think of this adjustment. First time adjusting the clutch.
Teazer, followed your instructions you wrote in a different thread. Looks like I have about 2-3 mm slack in the clutch lever (the cable engages but the clutch doesn't lift yet) and it looks like the clutch stack lifts about 2 mm in total when the lever is pulled.
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