Pics of my two RD350 bikes

kenmasters

kenmasters

New Member
First one which I will try to keep in stock form. Runs, but needs some tuning.

1975 Yamaha RD350.



Second one is in rough shape. This will be my platform to build a cafe racer. Does anyone know of a mechanic who is familiar with 2 strokes and can rebuild the engine ?

1973 RD350



 
Nice bikes. As far as a mechanic to build the motor, that depends on what you want done and where you're located.
 
I was thinking of rebuilding it myself, but im may f*ck it up. Since it currently doesn't run I don't even know the compression numbers. I want a rebuild - test compression see if I need the new pistons. New seals, gaskets and replace any worn parts at a minimum.

I'm in the GTA.
 
The last time I visited Gord Bush Performance, I visited the shop beside his. The specialized in 2-stroke racing bikes.

https://maps.google.ca/maps?q=Gord+Bush+Performance,+49+Fima+Cr,+Etobicoke,+ON&hl=en&ll=43.602762,-79.52665&spn=0.004887,0.009677&sll=43.602512,-79.526744&layer=c&cid=14072428281631807443&cbp=13,123.48,,0,7.46&panoid=Oki5kTllAg4KorpqyBAqzA&hq=Gord+Bush+Performance,+49+Fima+Cr,+Etobicoke,+ON&t=m&z=17&cbll=43.602675,-79.526715
 
There are a few of us on here that could do it, but you can save a ton of cash by doing most of it yourself. Those engines are very simple to work on and a great place to learn if you are so inclined. Does it turn over easily or is it stuck? If it turns over I'd suggest that you strip and rebuild that motor yourself.

A professional rebuild is nice but it's expensive. If you do it yourself you will save a small fortune. I have rebuilt any number of Honda and Yamaha twins and a few Suzuki triples and they all take time - lots of it. Most time is in cleaning parts and you can do that. Every hour you spend, just think that it's $65 or more that you just saved.

If your crank is good, you are looking at (ball park):
strip clean and rebuild $400 -600 maybe more, probably not much less
Seals $100 maybe a little less
Gaskets 50
Pistons, rings and small ends 250
Rebore say 70 a hole 140

Parts are available and its not hard to measure your pistons and barrels for wear and you do not need a lot of special tools. You will need an alternator puller ($20), Clutch holding tool ($0.01), and a dial gauge (say $30). You also need a clean workspace, patience and a shop manual for any RD ($25 for hardcopy).
 
Thanks for the feedback!

These two phrases are a bit contradictory, but I think I understand.

teazer said:
.....Those engines are very simple to work on and a great place to learn if you are so inclined..... and they all take time - lots of it.
Click to expand...

I have the Haynes manual and access to other forums like this that provides a lot of guidance. Thank you.

I was quoted about $600 for a top-end rebuild. I am hoping that I don't have to replace the pistons. I'm going to try to do a compression test before pulling things apart. The bike hasn't been started in 10+years or gods knows how long! There is no oil, ignition, throttle, battery, just an engine attached the carbs. By "turn over" you mean can the kick start lever move? Yes it's very tight, but it works. I've read that I can do a compression test simply by opening the throttle (how I don't know), and kicking it over.

Where do you buy your special tools from and for that price?

thanks
K
 
no
VonYinzer said:
Maybe I'm cheap... But $600 is a real high price for a "top end" rebuild...
Click to expand...

not if it includes parts, machining,cleaning and build at a shop.

Your probably just cheap! ;)
 
I think you should just build it yourself man. Take your time be careful and meticulous. Espessially since you have a running bike right now you should be in no hurry with the other one. Awesome bike btw (the first one) paint me jealous.
 
Thanks! I am going to attempt the rebuild myself. The engine kicks over and just did a compression test myself. Scored 95-100 right/left. A bit low as I think the spec calls for 100+. I will pull it apart to see what needs replacing.

-K
 
What I meant and you got it was that it takes time to clan things and check hem but there's no black magic or cam chain or primary chain tensioners or any complex crapola to deal with.

$0.01 tools is obviously a penny placed between the gears. Look around for pullers for the alternator rotor. I don't recall the size but they are available from motion Pro and other sources. For timing you need a decent timing gauge aka DTI and a way to hold it. For years I took the heads off and used some angle iron and spacers to position the DTI and you are good to go. Or you can spend 100+ on a the same DTI in a fancy wooden box.
 
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