Please Help - Rear Wheel Issues

cgraham said:
...If I put the wheel on and then try and thread the castle, I can't get the cotter pin through....

That's the part that doesn't make sense. Are you saying the axle doesn't go all the way in when the wheel is mounted (I don't recall the CB550 having a stepped axle) or are you having to spread the swingarm to squeeze the rear wheel in?

If the axle fits with the wheel off, then it fits with the wheel on, unless you're having to widen the swingarm to get the wheel in there.
 
Yes, you are correct. We had to pull the swingarm apart in order to have it set correctly. But why would that be if the swingarm and axle are both from a 78' K?
 
I suspect there's something binding in the wheel hub that's not allowing the brake plate to slide all the way into it. But pictures of the mounted wheel might shed more light on the subject.


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OK - so now it's more clear.

The spacer on the left is I believe a stepped spacer - fits inside the bearing.

One thing you might want to confirm is that the bearings are properly seated in the wheel. You should be able to see the inner spacer between the bearings, and can confirm there is little to no play in it between the bearings.

The stepped spacer does I believe sit inside the bearing, and then the axle goes through it. But I can't recall 100% on that bike.

You should never have to spread a swingarm to fit a wheel - so don't bother repeating that process. Until it slips into place perfectly, something isn't right. And you can't just shave off one spacer or another as then your sprockets won't line up and the wheel will be off center a bit (less of an issue).
 
The spacer on the left is built into the sprocket cover. It goes on the hub before the sprocket cover gets bolted on and it's locked in there. It only fits one way, so if it was wrong, you'd never be able to put the sprocket cover back on. From the pictures you posted earlier, it's protruding exactly how far it should be.


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Correct, it cannot just be pulled out. We thought about having one of the spacers machined down - but you are right, that will probably just lead to further issues. I can check the brake assembly and make sure it is seating correctly and nothing is binding up.
 
i have seen the thickness of chain adjuster plates vary model to model this dimension could add up ,personally i dont run a cotter pin just a skinny hitch pin type R clip i suggest you do the same less hastle
images
 
Here are some pictures I snapped of the brake drum. Should the shoulder shown on the inside in the middle of the assembly sit against the wheel bearing? Because when I push the drum onto the wheel, the two push against each other and I am easily able to rock the drum back and forth inside the hub. Should the drum fit snugly without any movement, or should it be able to wobble like mine? Also, which may just be a coincidence, the width of the exposed shoulder is approximately how much room I need on the axle to thread the castle.
 

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Yes, that center sleeve should rest against the inner bearing race. The brake backing plate is aligned by the axle, and the only parts it should touch are the axle, the inner right side bearing race and the spacer that goes between the backing plate and the chain adjuster (excluding all the brake parts and brake stay arm). When the axle is tight, the backing plate can not rotate. One thing to check (which has already been mentioned, but you need to verify) is the proper installation of the wheel bearings. There is an exact length spacer between the wheel bearings which makes it possible to tighten the axle without loading the bearings themselves in compression - just the inner races. The wheel bearings need to be pressed into the hub far enough so that the internal spacer is held with zero play between the inner races. When the axle is tight, that spacer gets clamped tightly between the inner bearing races. The rest of the components on the drive side stack up against the left side inner bearing race and should end up being an exact fit up to the left chain adjuster. Some swing arms are a hair tight, or a hair loose, but not the obvious problem you are having. So along with determining the correct parts, make sure that all the stacked components that make up the span between the chain adjusters are in fact contacting each other, and not being held apart by some other issue. When you put all the bits together, the wheel should spin freely, and should spin just as freely with the axle fully tight. If not, there is a mechanical issue improperly loading the bearings, or interference between parts somewhere.
 
Ok, I took what all of you have said and I went at it again...no luck :-\. The bearings are installed correctly as there is no gap between them and the internal spacer. Here is some pictures to better show what is happening...

First up, here is a shot of the wheel with the axle installed but not on the bike. On the sprocket side - everything is in contact and looks good. On the drum side - the chain adjuster overhangs the threads by 1/4" (reason why the castle wont thread all the way).
 

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Next up is the wheel and axle installed on the bike. The sprocket side looks good, but notice that on the drum side the swingarm isn't wide enough to make it to the chain adjuster. Additionally, the chain adjuster overhangs the threads by 1/4" which doesn't allow the swingarm to sit on a level part of the axle (even if we pulled the swingarm wide enough to make it fit).
 

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Additionally, if I remove the chain adjusters and mock up the wheel - this is what you see (in the pictures, the wheel/axle is pushed as far forward in the swingarm as possible). There is about 1/8" between the swingarm and the threads - obviously not enough to fit 4 chain adjuster widths. Furthermore, look how far off the wheel is from center. I can fit 2 fingers on the sprocket side and barely 1 on the drum side.
 

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So far everything I have seen leads me to believe that the bearing/spacer on the sprocket side that sits partially inside the hub, is not correct. If it were 1/4" less protruding out, it would allow the swing arm to rest on a level part of the axle, allow for the castle to be threaded all the way, and would solve the issue of the wheel not being in the center.
 
the tire will not necasarily be centered in the swingarm what you want is the sprockets inline and the wheels on the same centerline
 
Ok, that clears that up. Thank you!

Any other ideas about the fitment? What is going on!!!! I want to get this thing rolling 8)
 
It isn't the first 550 I've seen with a 'bent' swing arm.
Axle may also be the wrong one?
Is there a reason you have an extra washer inside swing arm side?
I used one on mine on drive side to get chain lined up
 
crazypj said:
It isn't the first 550 I've seen with a 'bent' swing arm.
Axle may also be the wrong one?
Is there a reason you have an extra washer inside swing arm side?
I used one on mine on drive side to get chain lined up

I THINK IT IS JUST THE ADJUSTER HANGING DOWN
 
Not sure what washer you are referring to. There are no washers shown in the pictures. I know the axle is correct because without the wheel installed, the axle slides right into place no problem. Only when the wheel is installed it is off and I need to pull the swift arm to accept it.
 
xb33bsa said:
I THINK IT IS JUST THE ADJUSTER HANGING DOWN

Doh :-[

You need to check part number and length, just because axle appears to fit doesn't mean it's the correct one. I've seen a lot of 'bent' swing arms where a spacer was left out, axle nut tightened down and made wheel space a lot narrower than it should be. (not the case on my 550, I welded in a brace to make things 'tight')
Also seen a lot of axles with destroyed threads (although more common on sportbikes and Buell's for some reason?)
 
Axle length isn't the problem. The axle fits properly in the swing arm without the wheel installed. Something about the wheel stack is wrong but I'm stumped as to what.


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