For sure having data is useful as long as we know what to do with that data. I have an Innovate A"F meter and wide band O2 sensor i used with a data logger and to honest it would have been cheaper to slap it on the dyno - which is what I ended up doing to get it into the ballpark. Dynobikes in Moorabin can give you a quick run and gas analysis and there are others in other states.
That curve gives you a better idea of what you want 12.6 for max power and 15.4 for economy on light throttle cruising and richer for idle, but what does your motor want?
The way I set up carbs is to start with stock settings and go up say 2 sizes on pilot jet and two or more on teh main jets to start with. I check FUEL levels (not float levels) to make sure that I have a solid starting point. Fire up teh bike and adjust the airscrews until the idle is nice and clean AND when you roll on teh throttle it doesn't die. I often end up with slightly larger than perfect pilot jets if the carbs are larger than stock so that the bike picks up cleanly as throttle is opened.
If it's any sort of rideable, the next jet to fix is the main jets and that requires a box of jets and a few sets of cheap spark plugs of the right heat range. Do a plug chop at WOT under load and inspect the plugs. You want cleasn insulator and no signs of overheating on the side or center electrodes. After that's set, then I move needles up or down to get mid throttle right.
Another trick is to ride it up a slight hill and open the throttle wide at a fixed point going up the hill and time it from there to the top . Change jets and repeat until you have the fastest time up that hill. Consistency of starting speed is obviously important as is avoiding the state revenue raising employees (police).
How modified is the bike?