Project "Get off my lawn!" CL360

quadcam79

New Member
I picked up this cl360 from a co-worker about a year ago. It's actually my wifes bike but prior to getting it she hadn't ridden in years and when she hopped on to take it for a spin around the yard she ended up dumping it in the grass, no major damage except a bent shift lever. Ever since that day it has been sitting in the yard exposed to the elements because I didnt have a garage to store it in and tarps dont help much.
Here's the bike when we first got it
honda1.jpg


Well, now i have a small 12x24 garage and decided to get started on making some changes to the bike. get rid of all the excess festoonery and cafe it out. So the other day I rolled her old ass up into the garage and started the teardown. It started simple enough, swap out the old motocross style bars for some clubmans. Little did I know what I was starting, all of the electrical is running through the bars and had to be disconnected from inside the headlight bucket. WTF, is all this wiring really necessary? No it isn't and I added simplify and rewire the bike onto the project list.

sitting in the elements has taken it's toll on the shiney parts.
cl2.jpg


deconstruction
cl3.jpg


cl4.jpg


testing the bar fit , got em in black because in this salty air chrome is my nemesis ..aluminum is even worse
cl5.jpg


I plan on building a fg seat pan, built fg sub enclosures before so it shouldnt be too difficult. I'll also french the brakelights into the rear cone of the seat pan.

I think i decided that since I'm going to do this I may as well do it right and take it all the way down to the frame, repaint everything, rewire, and just rebuild the whole damn bike from the frame up. so much for just swappin out the bars, cleaning up some rust and changing the seat


So now I have some questions.
1. is it possible to get rid of the rust and save the finish on those shocks? if so what would be the best way to go about removing it?

2. the entire top of the engine is oxidized, i want to clean it up and either repaint it or have it powder coated but i'm not so sure i want to tear the engine down to do all that. I'll probably have to anyway but any other suggestions on how best to go about it?

3. the push/pull throttle, I want to replace the old controls with simple single levers clutch, brake and throttle which means ditching the dual cable for a single cable, any issues with doing so?

the plan is to simplify as much as possible it'll be kick start only and luckily where i live johnny law isnt too concerned with bikes so the only electrical i need is headlight, brake light and gauges for myself. I realize this is a simple HD diagram but the same wiring should apply
wirepan.jpg
 
Cool bike. How pissed are your bandmates that they've got a bike in their practice space?

On the shocks....dunno, but they don't look great. Obviously the springs are the most noticeable part. If the shocks themselves are okay, you could probably replace just the springs with some decent salvaged springs. You could also just replace the whole set up with some nice progressives or something. Mine had a little bit of surface rust, but I was able to get rid of it with some steel wool. Yours look significantly worse than mine did, though. I'm sure you'd have to add in some sort of chemical to really take a bite out of that, but I'm not really sure what would be best to use. Hopefully another member can chime in on that.

Get yourself a proper cafe wiring diagram for a CB360, or at least something more similar. They're out there, and will be easier to work with. For example, your bike will likely have three wires coming off the tail/brake light.

Switching out for a single throttle cable is no big deal. Lots of people do it because these 360 carbs can be difficult to tune and I'm seeing more and more people switching to Mikunis which are a single cable setup. Sudco.com sells the conversions.
 
;D no more bandmates to worry about. I started playing drums again about a year ago and everything was going good until I started to develop CTS in both wrists and can't really play much anymore, after a few mins i get shooting pain through my wrists and cant hang onto the sticks anymore. Sucks too because thats a brand new Gretch maple kit.

anyway, back to the bike. I'll probably end up replacing the shocks, this is a low, ok no, budget build so i gotta be resourceful.
I have the repair manual for the 360, another DTT member was nice enough to hook me up with that so I do have the actual wiring diagram, the one i posted was more for a reference about simplifying the wiring jungle thats on the bike right now.
should be pretty much similar to my sporty chopper wiring, ign switch, relay, battery, gen headlight and brake light and a few circuit breakers.

I figured the throttle cable shouldnt be an issue but i wanted to be sure before i order a single cable setup. I'll probably go with something like this for the controls
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=295 or this
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=297
and throttle http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=294
 
Wire brush and a rattle can of "chrome" paint will get you through at least one riding season and maybe more. It ain't the fanciest solution, but it works as long as the shocks still work.
 
I've cleaned up a lot of chrome with 0000 steel wool and a bottle of turtle wax polish. It will scratch nice shiny chrome so I wouldn't use it for that but if the piece is already pitted and oxidized it works wonders. I just did a set of shocks which were in similar condition to yours and they came out great. I would steer away from a wire brush or wire wheel since the bristles are so course. Also I don't think the chrome paint will like the constant flexing of the springs, but I have seen paints in the autoparts store made for that specific purpose; I don't think they come in chrome though.
 
Here's the CL's original wiring diagram to get you started :) Can't wait to see what you do with this!
 
Back
Top Bottom