project seat f up

axeugene27

axeugene27

Over 1,000 Posts
saw that guy on that video slamming out an awsome glass seat like no problem right.
wrong i suck at fiberglass and am an utter failure.

I got my seat useable with a ton of fix work and cover up but boy did it look crappy at first. The molding part was easy.
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By <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/axeugene27">axeugene27</a> at 2012-06-13
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By <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/axeugene27">axeugene27</a> at 2012-06-13

so I was like oh yeah i am sweet. Lets get on the resin..
Sticky sticky . tried to lay out a single sheet of fiberglass matte cut up like the dcc vid shows. "just get out the bubbles right".... not ....soon there was little fiber on the mold and a whole lot on me . Word of advice if you try this dab do not spread the resin and keep the mold elevated or propped on something so you can let the material drape over the edges it's hard to keep it from bubbling on the sides.
Ended up lookin pretty poopy. :'( back to wally world and got some more resin and got the cloth instead a whole lot easier to work with this stuff. I cut it into about 5 small strips this time and relayered it. Helped alot to smooth it out.
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By <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/axeugene27">axeugene27</a> at 2012-06-13

bondo the crap out of it and it looks decent still alot of sanding and glazing to do to make it look decent. Hats off to the guys who do this stuff well

It is not easy.
 
Re: project seat f up

The biggest problem youre dealing with? Using the wal mart bondo brand stuff. It serioisly sucks. But all's well that ends well.
 
I think the bigger problem is my relative cheapness and inability to refrain from trying just about anything.....twice
 
Re: project seat f up

Hey man, you did everything right as far as I'm concerned other than the choice in resin. It was a revelation when I discovered the good stuff.
 
I would recommend working in strips and pre-cut sheets. And, if you can cut down the bristles on the brushes, do so. Your not so much brushing as you are dabbling. Work in smaller batches of material. That way you are not feeling rushed to get everthing layed down and wet before it starts to set. Last, don't give up. I churned out a somewhat respectable glass seat first time, and at certain points, I thought it looked like total ass and was unrecoverable. What I see in your pic is good. Take you time, dont despair and you'll come through.
 
I don't think it turned out bad at all. When you get the filler on it, I'm sure it will end up great. However, good resin does make the seat.
 
Yeah man it turned out ok. I got it to a point that the hump is pretty smooth. I picked up some icing glazing putty stuff yesterday to fill in the pinholes. when it's done i'll post some more picks. the sides of the seat portion are pretty wonky though. I was going to do an inner seat pan but I think with the edges ,the way they are, I am goint to have to wrap the seat. I really don't have any good clue how to upholster this thing I see how i can easily wrap the flat portion but as to where it comes up for the seat hump i don't know how i am going to get the junction to look tight. But alas paint should come first.
 
I had the same problem with the sides on my seat. But I'm still pleased with the outcome. I am having the same dilema with the back as well. I stiched up a quick cover just so I could ride. I put strips of wood afixed with liquid nails on the under side to staple my cover to. It is holding up really well. Now I just need to start working on the permanent cover.
Looking forward to see yours done soon.

Dan
 
yeah the tank came out good i am in the process of smoothing the dents with body filler and sanding the crap out of it. I Think it will actually be pretty sick once it's painted. I was going to leave it raw but couldn't leave well enough alone it's my main character flaw. Anyone know if you can put staples right through a fiberglass seat will that crack it?
 
hey man, i don't mean to go off topic, but how did you do your tank? did you use body hammers, or cut and weld? it looks fantastic!
 
Thanks bud i am in the process of glazing the tank to get those dents baby smooth prior to painting. 7 you can expect to fuck up a tank or two in your lifetime doing knee dents hell i have. I just did the standard job with a small rubber/nylon mallet. Key is to take your sweet ass time don't get excited and make a template so you can transpose it to both sides. I am a sucker for measure 3 times create once so measure it up before you make your template. 2 key points about knee dents. See the petcock on the right side that part of the tank will not give and you need to keep your dents off the bottom line of the tank about an inch or else the indent tends to look crappy. 2. when you strike the tank you start from the inside out and you never hit the tank at the edge of the dent you hit it about 2 in from the edge and see how the edge of the dent comes. Strike light and many my friend. Still using body filler and sandpaper I want this one to turn out primo..
 
On another note glassed another seat today as i just wasn't happy with the first one. THis one turned out really nice so far> I'll post pics tomorrow. I guess the first time you do anything you got to take your strokes.
 
thanks for the tips man, really appreciate it! i have a tank that i'm working some knee dents with, but i tried the 'ol cut both sides out and swap 'em trick. unfortunately, i didn't realize that my only means of welding, a flux core mig, was a terrible option as it is a porous weld and the tank material is very thin, making it super hard not to burn through. but i will definitely take your tips, your dents have such crisp edges, which i really want but haven't really seen anyone achieve with hammers. anyhow, back on topic, can't wait to see the new seat!
 
Here are some pics of cafe seat second try. I rounded out the rear for this one (don't know what i was thinking with the first seat it was a more boxy rear). I used all fiberglass cloth rather than matte. A note on that --> it is MUCH easier to use and get clean lines. However I find that the end product does not seem to be as stiff. Perhaps that has to do with pattern randomness of the material? In any case. One other note for folks trying this at home. If the resin starts to gel up at all while you are working do not use it you need a very liquid resin to get the smoothness you desire. I rather think this second seat turned out awesome. I still am going to use some of the icing i bought at napa to glaze it ultra smooth. But impressed with myself i am. Probably ended up spending as much to make it as i would of to buy one ( in the end) although if you do it right the first time it will only cost you like 50 bucks to make one. This one has the exact dimensions and shape i want though so i am happy. Thanks for the advice/ input I am gonna get this sucker glazed up now.

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By <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/axeugene27">axeugene27</a> at 2012-06-20
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By <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/axeugene27">axeugene27</a> at 2012-06-20
 
Yep, 2nd one looks a lot better. It took me 2 try's also. I put a lot of hours in mine. Sad part, I use to work with fiberglass everyday for 6 years as a real job.
 
Very nice on the 2nd!!!! Would you advise against going 1 coat matte and the rest cloth? I am only asking for stiffness? I am about to do the KZ and would like to nail it on the first try. Thanks for the tips
 
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