Project Shinjimei- 73 TX500

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Got my rear rim today. So, as you can see, now I have both. I suppose I should get cracking. Being the impatient asshole I am, I ordered the rear rim from Buchanan's before I had the spokes in hand, so I had them drill for the smallest nipple size. Of course, that means I need to open the holes up a little.
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I also burned in my new lower shock mounts.
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This arrived a few days ago, too. My new rear loop. (thanks again, cafegoose!) [Forgive the crappy pic...] If you look close, you can see I welded in one of my gussets, too.
When I'm relocating the upper shock mounts, this will be added. That's all for now!
 
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I decided to try and lace up my own wheels. Initially it didn't go too well, since I started with the inner spokes instead of the outers... But I'm sure you'll agree, the end result is worth it!
Yeah, I got this shit.
 
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I just had to see how it looked in the swingarm.... I know, not an update, but I was excited, so reason enough. Carry on!
 
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I started trying to lace up the front wheel yesterday. It isn't going as well as the rear, but I'll make it work. The holes in the rim are angled wrong, so I'll have to fix that.
One thing that did turn out well was getting a front axle that fits both the old wheel and new forks.
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Here is the original Yamaha axle and the Hyosung axle next to each other... Doesn't look very close, does it?
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Well, after spinning the end down 1mm and putting the Hyosung nut on, you get this. Ha!
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And as proof, here's the Yamaha axle in the Hyosung forks. success! Now I don't need conversion bearings or a new axle. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it!
 
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Oh, and my clipons finally showed up from Korea. My front end was bar-less. Now it won't be. Once I actually get the stems switched over... I have the Yamaha stem out of the tree, but it's freaking huge, so I have to bore out the hole in the Hyosung bottom clamp as big as I can, and spin the stem down besides. Should take a couple days for my guy at work to do it on our lathe. ( while I am perfectly capable, they don't trust us production workers to use the lathe) I need the trees done so I can get a measurement for the new front wheel spacers.
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I pulled out my bodywork so I could figure out exactly where my rear hoop needs to go, as well. It's still a little too cold to finish that, but I have time. Plenty.
 
I don't suppose anybody is in dire need of a 2.15 by 18 rear rim for a YZ250? Cuz it isn't just drilled wrong for an XS front hub, bit dimpled wrong as well... The inner spokes worked, but the outers don't line up unless I angle them the wrong way. If nobody else wants it, I'm gonna drill the holes and they probably won't work and I'll end up buying another rim. Like, one that was made for this shit from MikesXS...
At least I only paid 30 bucks for the rim... If I end up destroying it I'll just say I paid an extra 30 for the spokes and forget about it.
 
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I managed to get the front wheel laced up, but I'm not happy with the result. I'm just going to buy a rim from MikesXS.
 
starting to look REAL NICE! I'm feeling that front end and swingarm swap... Keep up the good work! Ooh, and thank god you said no to that mini bike tank reservoir in the beginning, lol
 
Lol. Yeah. That was a bad idea...or, it was a good idea that wouldn't work. I get a lot of those...
 
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You are looking at Hyosung trees with a Yamaha stem.
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I love it when a plan comes together....
 
Very nicely done now get them forks on the bike I want to see it happen !
 
Have you check ALL-BALLS to see if there are bearings which will work with that stem and your frame? If there's nothing suitable, you could also look at making a new stem which would be fairly easy or turn down the lower end of that Yamaha stem to be a light press fit in the lower triple.
 
I actually bored out the trees to fit the Yamaha stem. Already done, and I have new bearings from All Balls, as well. The Hyosung stem is about an inch too short, otherwise I'd have just tried to get new bearings to match it up. It is smaller diameter, also, so this seemed like the logical way to go. Getting the Yamaha stem out was a bitch, though, because they weld around the perimeter at the bottom.
The new forks would already be on the bike if it was warm enough out to paint the frame. I'm going with a hammertone silver. I had thought about powdercoat, and I may still do it next year, but I have the paint, and I don't have the extra cash. Of course, I need to finish up the loop and upper shock mounts before I paint...
 
I used the whole front and all the rear minus the single shock setup from a YZ250 on my XS500 .I have it in the projects forum under "trackers" http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=47906.msg531227#msg531227
 
Jimmer, I saw that via a link on the TX/XS500 forum. Very cool. I like what you did with the exhaust, especially.
 
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I managed to get a few important things done today, thanks to the sudden warm weather... Here I demonstrate why I wanted to gusset the frame...
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And, finally, my rear frame loop is attached! I am overjoyed. ;-)
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Even better, it fits exactly like I wanted! I knew I could do something right the first time. Lol. Of course, you'll notice I cut off the upper shock mounts. They are being relocated to the area under the weld attaching the loop. Not a huge change, but it's about an inch and a half further forward from the original location, which will pull the swingarm up to where I want it.
Now I need to relocate that damn kickstand....
 
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Just because. I know it needs to come off again for paint, but I had to see it. Good thing I tried before final assembly. It turns out the lower bearing needs a spacer under it, or the lower tree contacts the bottom of the neck before the bearings are tight.
Now I hope I can get the bearing off without ruining it...
 
At closer inspection, I find my problem with the front end is both easier and more painful to fix. The original Yamaha lower tree had a raised area cast in, which worked as a spacer and a place to put a seal for the lower bearing. I pressed the stem into the new tree at the same distance as the old one, but the new tree is flat all the way across. This would be a huge problem, but actually, it turns out the lower race is recessed three sixteenths or so into the bottom of the neck.
While the original installation required the lower bearing to be spaced up to reach, if I did that, the stem would be that amount too short. Especially since the Timken neck bearings are taller, and add height at the top. So I'm going to have to remove the material below the race from the neck. Painful, but necessary.
 
How's the lock to lock ? Any problem bar mounts hitting the tank ?
 
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