"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!
- Thread starter tWistedWheelz
- Start date
jsharpphoto
Coast to Coast
I've read all 28 pages of this thread, several times over the last few months. There's a topic that I'm still fuzzy on, which is painting and priming raw fiberglass. As in, one off stuff that has no gel coat.
After you said it as smooth as body work should be sanded, do you hit it with adhesion promoter BEFORE primer? And what kind of primer? self etch than high-build filler? and do you use adhesion promoter in between primer and paint?
After you said it as smooth as body work should be sanded, do you hit it with adhesion promoter BEFORE primer? And what kind of primer? self etch than high-build filler? and do you use adhesion promoter in between primer and paint?
rbm
New Member
Definitely yes. Use the adhesion promoter then the primer. But, before the promoter, use wax/oil remover to make sure any waxy epoxy residue is eliminated and the promoter can do its job.jsharpphoto said:
[quote author=jsharpphoto] And what kind of primer? self etch than high-build filler? [/quote]
I'd suggest using a high build primer because (1) you probably want to sand the primer coat to even out any small surface errors and (2) there's nothing for the etching primer to etch in fiberglass.
[quote author=jsharpphoto] and do you use adhesion promoter in between primer and paint?
[/quote]If you follow the instructions in this thread, it should not be necessary to apply adhesion promoter between colour coats or between primer and colour. The adhesion promoter ensures that the next coat (primer) will not peel off the plastic should there be any chemical or surface anomaly to cause poor adhesion. The colour will naturally adhere to the primer because of its porous, rough surface texture. Adhesion promoter will not enhance that property.
The question that you might have for which I don't have an answer is "Would you want a paint that has additives for flexibility?"
jsharpphoto
Coast to Coast
Thanks for your help!
Raw fiberglass
Adhesion promotor
Filler primer
Color
Clear
Raw fiberglass
Adhesion promotor
Filler primer
Color
Clear
mAd mOrdigan
Been Around the Block
cb750stu said:Hi guys just thought i would post some pics of my completed engine i pianted using spray enamel paint i probably spent 2 weeks cleaning it before paint using Gunk Dremmel tools and various grades of wet and dry,turned out pretty nice and looks even better with the help of the Joker Machine parts.
that looks great! what kind of paint and what was the color you used for the silver?
ILoveThumpers
Everywhere is thumpers!
nedmmo said:
Always follow the directions on the can.
Always.
-Deek
stroker crazy
crazy as a fox
ILoveThumpers said:
Especially after you've stuffed it up the first time!
Crazy
ILoveThumpers
Everywhere is thumpers!
Looks good, let's see a closeup! 8)
-Deek
-Deek
mrjoshzombie
Been Around the Block
To those that painted their engines, what was your process in terms of assembly and hardware?
I plan to refresh my engine with new gaskets and stainless steel bolts, but I also want to paint the entire time. Would it be best to refresh the engine, paint with the old hardware in, then replace with the stainless? Or disassemble (remove covers) and get creative with masking tape?
I plan to refresh my engine with new gaskets and stainless steel bolts, but I also want to paint the entire time. Would it be best to refresh the engine, paint with the old hardware in, then replace with the stainless? Or disassemble (remove covers) and get creative with masking tape?
Tifun
Indy
Rattle can job using Dupont automotive. I really like their spray nozzels, it lays very nicely with very very little splatter. After paint I did a 2000/2500 wetsannd, then used a black waffle polish pad followed by a blue waffle finesse pad. Pretty good depth came out after the black, the blue didn't seem to make much of a difference. I really like how this color came out.
