nateridesbikes
Been Around the Block
Doable? I'm assuming yes but I want to double check before trying to hunt down a rim.
Bike is a cb360.
Bike is a cb360.
Rear Rim Laced to Front Hub
- Thread starter nateridesbikes
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nateridesbikes
Been Around the Block
Good thing I asked! My front brake is a disk. I was thinking about swapping to a drum brake tho, so we shall see.
Switching to a drum brake for the sake of appearance is deadly foolish. Despite those who will tell you that a good drum brake will work as well as a disk its just utter nonsense in the real world; whatever drum you would end up using isn't the best ever made and just about any disk brake is better, better in the rain, better because they are far more resistant to fade, better because of parts availability if nothing else.
If you know the diameter of the hub (disk or drum) and know the diameter of the rim then the angles can be calculated with ease (by people who know how, not by me) and the rims can be drilled accordingly. Buchanon's (sp?) drills rims for whatever you want to put in the middle, with however many spokes are required, and of course they will be happy to sell you the rim too. Its not cheap, but its sure an elegant solution.
If you know the diameter of the hub (disk or drum) and know the diameter of the rim then the angles can be calculated with ease (by people who know how, not by me) and the rims can be drilled accordingly. Buchanon's (sp?) drills rims for whatever you want to put in the middle, with however many spokes are required, and of course they will be happy to sell you the rim too. Its not cheap, but its sure an elegant solution.
nateridesbikes
Been Around the Block
The swap would be purely for looks. I realize a drum doesn't work as well as a disk but they obviously work. I don't feel like it will turn the bike into a rolling death trap. The build I am doing isn't likely to see a ton of miles anyway. But like I said I'm just tossing the idea around. Nothing with this build is final yet.
I have checked out Buchanan's but I'm not willing to invest that much coin into this project. I just thought I might be able to score a second hand rim on ebay and lace it on up to the hub I have.
I have checked out Buchanan's but I'm not willing to invest that much coin into this project. I just thought I might be able to score a second hand rim on ebay and lace it on up to the hub I have.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Done a load of them.
Got Brendon to fit CB360 rear rim to front hub on his, tyre fits better with WM2 on there.
Hit the holes with a chainsaw file, only needs a few thou to get angle right
If you use alloy rims it's a bit more work, I have pics of it in CB360 build
Got Brendon to fit CB360 rear rim to front hub on his, tyre fits better with WM2 on there.
Hit the holes with a chainsaw file, only needs a few thou to get angle right
If you use alloy rims it's a bit more work, I have pics of it in CB360 build
nateridesbikes
Been Around the Block
crazypj said:
Im reading through your build right now. Quick question though, are you using the stock spokes on the wider rim? Looks like you're using an xs650 rims? If so are you using the original honda spokes to lace that thing up?
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Yes
They were slightly 'off' on one wheel so I made a set of curved washers to spread load and fill in slightly oversize hole. (pics and explanation in thread)
You could have spokes made but personally I don't bother
The bike is getting lighter so you don't need something that will support 1000lbs or more
Total weight is going to be around 5~600lbs if me and bike are on one wheel (just a ballpark weight, may be lower, particularly if I get back to 185~190lbs instead of 220+ with gear ;D )
They were slightly 'off' on one wheel so I made a set of curved washers to spread load and fill in slightly oversize hole. (pics and explanation in thread)
You could have spokes made but personally I don't bother
The bike is getting lighter so you don't need something that will support 1000lbs or more
Total weight is going to be around 5~600lbs if me and bike are on one wheel (just a ballpark weight, may be lower, particularly if I get back to 185~190lbs instead of 220+ with gear ;D )
I don't know how old you are or how long you've been riding but I have to tell you something you said that is not accurate. You said, "obviously they work" when referring to the old drum brakes - and I'm here to tell you that seeing was not believing. Brakes back in the day, and I'm talking about the brakes on common street bikes as recently as the early to mid 70's, which is about the time most manufacturers started making the switch from drums to disks (with the British being the last to switch), the bikes with drum brakes were simply horrible when it came to stopping. They were so bad that lots of guys used to just toss them and run a spool front because the drum brakes didn't do anything at all to stop the bike so the weren't worth keeping. The British bikes were the very worst about it. I doubt that you will find an old timer that can't tell you at least one story about a trip out into the weeds when the front brake wouldn't slow a bike enough to make a turn. It was the drum, always the drums. Find anyone who rode any of the early Kawasakis with drums and ask them how they feel about the things. Drum brakes went away for some very good reasons. They were for crap. Don't trust them.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
A drum will work as well as any brake, but, probably only once (particularly from high speed) until it has a chance to cool down
The real major issue with drum brakes, even more with twin leading shoe drum brakes, the fdumbasses who can't put things together properly and think fingerprints, rust and/or grease make a good braking surface.
It still happens today, didn't pay attention when dismantling, don't know how it's supposed to work, if it fits, it's good :
(Few years ago I bought a Camry that had just had new rear brake shoes fitted, would have been a lot better if they put all the parts in so they actually worked)
Even the most basic drum brake requires attention to make it work properly (hands up everyone who always remembers to put brakes on HARD before tightening axle nut?)
Most people reading this won't know why, even after reading
Disc brakes are self adjusting, as long as you have some fluid, brake lines intact, pads a rotor plus no air in the system
Even then, they are still not idiot proof, seen several where both pads are on same side of rotor
Any idea how well that works?
Now, I never test ride someone else's bike without properly checking everything
The real major issue with drum brakes, even more with twin leading shoe drum brakes, the fdumbasses who can't put things together properly and think fingerprints, rust and/or grease make a good braking surface.
It still happens today, didn't pay attention when dismantling, don't know how it's supposed to work, if it fits, it's good :
(Few years ago I bought a Camry that had just had new rear brake shoes fitted, would have been a lot better if they put all the parts in so they actually worked)
Even the most basic drum brake requires attention to make it work properly (hands up everyone who always remembers to put brakes on HARD before tightening axle nut?)
Most people reading this won't know why, even after reading
Disc brakes are self adjusting, as long as you have some fluid, brake lines intact, pads a rotor plus no air in the system
Even then, they are still not idiot proof, seen several where both pads are on same side of rotor
Any idea how well that works?
Now, I never test ride someone else's bike without properly checking everything
nateridesbikes
Been Around the Block
I've been convinced, drum swap is not happening. No sense in going back in technology right? The XS rims have me intrigued tho. Might try to track me down some.
We can lift the rear wheel and do little stoppies with drum brakes so they can work. But I have to admit that they were relined with 2520 high friction linings and arced and the brakes were very carefully set up and that's rarely teh case with most old street drums.
Kong is right to be cautious and for someone without a lot of build experience or a lot of miles under their belt, a disk is arguably a safer bet.
Remember those awesome TZ Yamaha 10" front brakes? Well racers used to replace them with RD brakes from street bikes because they weigh less and work better. I know what looks better and I know what works, so no drums unless we have to.
Bottom line is make sure your brakes work and that you know how to set them up.
Kong is right to be cautious and for someone without a lot of build experience or a lot of miles under their belt, a disk is arguably a safer bet.
Remember those awesome TZ Yamaha 10" front brakes? Well racers used to replace them with RD brakes from street bikes because they weigh less and work better. I know what looks better and I know what works, so no drums unless we have to.
Bottom line is make sure your brakes work and that you know how to set them up.
nateridesbikes
Been Around the Block
I just like the simplistic look of a drum and mostly not having to run a dang MC up on the bars. Thinking into it further though it really doesn't make sense to swap. I ride an R6 daily and going from those brakes to old drums would not be a very smooth transition.
That's quite possibly the dumbest thing I've heard this year. So you're saying that one "bad drum" brake (rear) will/would stop a bike better than two "bad drum" brakes (front and rear)? Considering that nearly all the stopping power is on the front brake, in that situation I think I'd rather have a shitty drum on the front and nothing on the rear than the other way around.Kong said:
Yes, disc brakes are far more efficient than drums. But they are not the evil menace you make them out to be.
Nate, I have drums front and rear on my DS7. I kept the drums because I like the "vintage look" of them on that bike. The bike was built for putting around town and rarely sees speeds over 60mph. The drums work fine for what I use the bike for. In fact, I had a panic stop while in B'ham for Vintage Fest, and found that they worked better than I had expected/gave them credit for. If I were going to be riding more aggressively (carving up the curvies, higher speeds, etc.), I would have reconsidered that choice. And I ride a Hayabusa (not daily, but regularly) and have no problem transitioning from it to the old Yamaha. They're two completely different machines, so there's no problem getting into the proper mindset when swinging a leg over either one.
tweakedlogic
Been Around the Block
as long as the rims have the same amount of holes the hubs do, you can get spokes to fit.
I'm glad you are keeping the front disk, it's way better and easier to set up.
I'm glad you are keeping the front disk, it's way better and easier to set up.
nateridesbikes
Been Around the Block
tweakedlogic said:
the thing is i refuse to buy new spokes. Trying to not go overboard on this sucker.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
If you use a steel rim, use the front spokes you have.
Worked using CB360 drum rear rim on front of CB360 with disc hub (much easier than doing the rear)
The used wheel he bought had a bunch of mismatched/bent/wrong spokes fitted
The Yamaha rims I used were different diameter where spokes fit (dimples were probably deeper with alloy rim?)
Worked using CB360 drum rear rim on front of CB360 with disc hub (much easier than doing the rear)
The used wheel he bought had a bunch of mismatched/bent/wrong spokes fitted
The Yamaha rims I used were different diameter where spokes fit (dimples were probably deeper with alloy rim?)
