Removing handlebar mounts on top clamp

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warpt_99

Been Around the Block
Anyone have any ideas for removing the handlebar clamps on a top clamp? My course grinding wheel is working but very very slowly and it's killing the wheel. I was thinking about getting a die grinder with cut off wheel or even an electric grinder. Anyone have experience doing this mod? Going for this look -
honda-cb750-dohc-1.jpg
 
a hacksaw with a 12 or 14 tooth blade will make very quick work of a job like that
use the power tool for finishing
buy only high quality hacksaw blades
use some wd40, beezwax or whatever on the blade
that said you would need to weld a piece over the hole to gain back the lost strength
just because many idiots leave a gaping hole,with greatly decreased structural integrity, doesn't make it ok or safe
buying a custom made one is a better solution
 
Electric cut-off wheel. Make slits every .25" or so vertically through the mounts, then hit it horizontally to shear the rest off. Use a "flap disc" to clean everything up that's attached to your angle grinder. Good luck!
 
Granted, mine doesn't have the same style handlebar mount, but I did cut off the speedo mount and other unnecessary bits with a cutting wheel. Here are the results of my efforts on my Sporty:







 
I'll try both the hacksaw and cut off wheel methods and see how it goes. I'm not too concerned about the loss of strength as my top clamp will only have 4 holes where the bolts once went. The pic I should seems like the person did some extra grinding on the top clamp for weight reduction maybe, IDK though.
 
18Bravo said:
Granted, mine doesn't have the same style handlebar mount, but I did cut off the speedo mount and other unnecessary bits with a cutting wheel. Here are the results of my efforts on my Sporty:







Click to expand...

that came out nicely
 
Thank you. I'm undecided whether to powdercoat or polish it.
For my next foray into modified top yokes I'd like to try making a "blind" one, where I mill out holes in aluminum stock on the underside, and the fork tubes rest up in the pockets. Nothing to see but clean metal. Maybe a good spot to engrave my company logo or something...
 
18Bravo said:
Thank you. I'm undecided whether to powdercoat or polish it.
For my next foray into modified top yokes I'd like to try making a "blind" one, where I mill out holes in aluminum stock on the underside, and the fork tubes rest up in the pockets. Nothing to see but clean metal. Maybe a good spot to engrave my company logo or something...
Click to expand...
the blind idea is cool but you still need to pinch-clamp
i have seen the ones with an insert that wedges against the tube but they aren't secure enough for anything but a show queen
 
No pinch clamp will be necessary, although there will be a form of retention I'm working on to secure them. The mere fact that the tubes rest in precisely milled pockets (at an angle no less) will keep them from in place. They obviously can't go through the top, and they certainly aren't falling out the bottom, especially with the bottom yoke holding them in place as well. Right now it's just a matter of whther I really want to spend the time and effort to do something few people other than myself will appreciate or even recognize.
 
18Bravo said:
No pinch clamp will be necessary, although there will be a form of retention I'm working on to secure them. The mere fact that the tubes rest in precisely milled pockets (at an angle no less) will keep them from in place. They obviously can't go through the top, and they certainly aren't falling out the bottom, especially with the bottom yoke holding them in place as well. Right now it's just a matter of whther I really want to spend the time and effort to do something few people other than myself will appreciate or even recognize.
Click to expand...
i was refering to them being secure enough for the twisting forces, you need to have a very secure grip on them
 
They wont go through the top nor fall out but a small set screw would help with the twisting. however, this takes away from the clean look unless you could hide the set screw under the top clamp
 
warpt_99 said:
They wont go through the top nor fall out but a small set screw would help with the twisting. however, this takes away from the clean look unless you could hide the set screw under the top clamp
Click to expand...
even a large set screw is not anywhere near secure enough
split pinch clamping or the top cap sucking it up and capturing are the only 2 methods proven to be suitable with the clamp being far superior
coming up with something as secure would be a real design victory but without performing magic it ain't gonna happen
 
If you drilled the top clamp to accept a set screw (1/4" or so) and then drilled a slight detent on the stanchion tube (they are plenty thick) it would be impossible for the tube to twist without bending/breaking the aluminum.
You could put a set screw on the back (rider side) and it wouldn't be visible
 
It's even more elegant than that. Machine the pockets with flats on either side. Mill flats on either side of the stanchion tubes. It ain't going anywhere. But I still have other ideas as well.

This is the clean top yoke on the chopper I built. Obviously different techniques involved, but the look is simple and uncluttered.

 
without a significant interference/press fit it will work loose over time
you MAY help to avoid that issue with some loctite bearing retainer compound
 
xb, your concerns are irrelevant! (unless you are worried about safety or handling, in which case, they are!) And SERIOUSLY! A hand hacksaw? really? You'll probably be suggesting a file next. sheeesh!
 
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