RFID ignition plans

I would at least put another diode after the one you have in the diagram, but as it feeds down to power the other circuits. That way the RFID unit upon sending the signal is only powering that one relay, otherwise you could fry the output (don't think it can do more than a few mA).

As for the buzzing, does that happen even after the brake switch is released or does everything shut off when it's released? Because I could see a timing issue with the RFID sending its output which will open up the brake switch relay, causing the RFID unit to get powered off. The diode actually might help that since the brake switch relay will not get powered up until the top relay is fully powered up and closed. Maybe?
 

Attachments

  • rfid_zpsul0jmdsa.jpg
    rfid_zpsul0jmdsa.jpg
    39.4 KB · Views: 167
Even easier is a simple key fob switch. You're just cutting power on the main lead. I'm running a hidden key fob switch on my CB750. Regardless, anyone that knows to look for where the red and black wire meet will be able to bypass the switch, even if it takes them a few minutes to find.
 
Jonny_C said:
I would at least put another diode after the one you have in the diagram, but as it feeds down to power the other circuits. That way the RFID unit upon sending the signal is only powering that one relay, otherwise you could fry the output (don't think it can do more than a few mA).

As for the buzzing, does that happen even after the brake switch is released or does everything shut off when it's released? Because I could see a timing issue with the RFID sending its output which will open up the brake switch relay, causing the RFID unit to get powered off. The diode actually might help that since the brake switch relay will not get powered up until the top relay is fully powered up and closed. Maybe?
Click to expand...

Bloody brilliant. I'll give that a try this evening.
 
Do you think this would work or will I just set bike on fire?

Idea being that shorting the switched live to ground will kill the power to relays, which will then kill power to switched live. So the short across the power would be on for however long it takes relay contacts to break, quarter of a second?

Would mean I can use momentary switch for killswitch easily and cut down on wiring.
rfid2_zpsxas3nlgu.jpg
 
No thats a bad idea. Just thinking about it, it dont sound good. A short across the battery for any amount of time isnt going to be a good thing.

Maybe add in a low resistance, high wattage resistor?

But I think if I want to use momentary switches I will have to add a killswitch control circuit sort of thing ah well
 
Oh yeah, that does seem much simpler. Only downside is if you leave the killswitch in the "run" position by accident, you'll drain the battery from the RFID reader being powered up.

I was actually wondering now why I didn't do that with my setup, but realized I wanted the killswitch to just control the ignition circuit still. I wouldn't want to have to cut the engine at night and have the lights shut off as well.
 
Nice. My solution turns the reader off after use, but that is simpler. Just received the unit now and it puts out -12V so having a rethink.
 
In fact it has an internal relay and its internal contact must go from ground to the output wire, instead of positive. Bit of a pain
 
cheese monkey said:
Nice. My solution turns the reader off after use, but that is simpler. Just received the unit now and it puts out -12V so having a rethink.
Click to expand...

You just measured the voltage with the meter leads backwards the negative doesn't mean anything in this case.
 
No I didnt, I know how to use a meter thankyou.

So the contact in the RFID unit is normally closed on 0v. Which is the opposite of what I need. Back to the design!
 
cheese monkey said:
No I didnt, I know how to use a meter thankyou.

So the contact in the RFID unit is normally closed on 0v. Which is the opposite of what I need. Back to the design!
Click to expand...

Which RFID did you get?

I am having trouble following on how you got -12v. If it is NC at 0v there will be no voltage on the output wire when the relay is triggered.


If the internal relay is ground switched and you measured for voltage from the output wire you wouldn't see any voltage at all either.
 
Yes exactly the internal relay is ground switched. I was expecting a + output when triggered so had + meter lead on output and -lead picked up nothing like you say on - and -12 on + but then realised that was when not triggered which is how I came to above conclusion so to be sure checked continuity which confirms it. Anyway, this poses a problem because I think to make this work now I will have to have a relay or RFID powered up continuously - battery drain.
 
cheese monkey said:
Yes exactly the internal relay is ground switched. I was expecting a + output when triggered so had + meter lead on output and -lead picked up nothing like you say on - and -12 on + but then realised that was when not triggered which is how I came to above conclusion so to be sure checked continuity which confirms it. Anyway, this poses a problem because I think to make this work now I will have to have a relay or RFID powered up continuously - battery drain.
Click to expand...

Did you get the big rectangle RFID on eBay? If so open up the box and see if you can do some rewiring.
 
Yep I have had mine for a year without any problems. The relay has a NC, common, and NO terminals. There is also another version which doesn't have a relay and uses a capacitor to up the 3.3v to 12v.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom