Running Lights (Turn Signals)

[ron.harding]

Tonners,

I bought dual filament turn signals from Dime City. I went throught the wiring diagram and they worked great using only the ground and power wire. But I wanted to have them on while riding- Hawaii drivers are horrible. I kept blowing the fuse. I am thinking that if I want to run it that way I would have to rewire the entire bike. I am thinking of using a 4 or 6 slot mini fuse block. I know alot of you have rewired and this isn't a hard thing to do as long as you have a plan and take your time.
If I rewired could I run my signals as running lights?

The signals I bought are in this link-
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronic-lighting-parts-mini-rectangle-aluminum-clear-turn-signals-blinkers-25-8305.html

4 slot fuse block-
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/images/FB1-1.JPG

 

[Uniac]

How many prongs does the flasher relay you're using have? Does it have a normally open and a normally closed circuit? if it does, wire it normally closed instead of open. That should keep them on all the time unless they flash, which will turn them off instead of on.

 

[Redbird]

First thing... the turn signals are listed as Dual Filament, and I only see two wires coming out of them. Which means they should be grounded through the housing. One wire will be for your high intensity (the flash) and one wire will be for your low intensity (the runner). Correct?
If so, you should be able to simply tap into any ignition hot (powered when the key is on) to power the running light circuit. If you're handy with a test light, it's a fairly easy process to find an ignition hot in the headlight bucket. If you're not, and have a wiring diagram, locate the hot wire to your gauges and tap into that.

 

[ron.harding]

My factory signal had two prongs. i replaced it with a three prong unit from O'rielly auto. So, if I am understanding correctly- I should change to a 4 prong? And that might do the trick?

 

[Redbird]

What uniac is describing is a way to have running lights and flash, with a single filament bulb. With dual filament fixtures, no modification of the flasher relay/circuit is necesary.

 

[ron.harding]

What uniac is describing is a way to have running lights and flash, with a single filament bulb. With dual filament fixtures, no modification of the flasher relay/circuit is necesary.

So the three prong is good. But I am not wiring something correctly.
My front signals are grounded to the nut that holds them to th einside of the headlight buckets- Soldered, then the orange and blue wires connect to the switch for left and right. The rear is grounded with the black ground wire that is part of the main harness. I am at a loss as to where the third wire should tie in.

 

[Redbird]

So the three prong is good.

Should be. You said the turnsignals work properly, but you want to add running lights to the fronts, correct?

I am at a loss as to where the third wire should tie in.

The third wire should be the low intensity side of the bulb. It should be tied into an ignition hot so they will be on whenever the key is on.

 

[ron.harding]

I tried the low intensity brake light wire. It is being over loaded. I will try a running it from the headlight wire. But that will have to wait until later tonight. Time to pick my wife up from the airport.

Thanks again everyone.