same size front and rear, 16"?

chris7981

Active Member
i have an 81 xs650 that I will be starting a build on soon. it has a standard 16"rear, 19" front tire set up. is it bad to run a 16" on the front as well? I would like the bike to sit low and level. the way it sits now the front sits up higher than the back.
 
There are a LOT of reasons why it's not a good idea. First off, tire selection sucks. Second, your front end will handle like a ton of bricks. Third, any 16" front tire that fits and gives you remotely close to the proper steering geometry probably won't actually fit between your forks / fender.

Why not just put an 18" wheel in the back?
 
that's why I was asking, wasn't sure what the best way to go about this was. would an 18" rear and a 19" front be better than an 18" front and back? I would rather not have bricks in my front end.
 
chris7981 said:
that's why I was asking, wasn't sure what the best way to go about this was. would an 18" rear and a 19" front be better than an 18" front and back? I would rather not have bricks in my front end.

No, anything from 17" up in the front is ok when looking at tire selection, rim width and handling. Usually, a 18 will handle a little better then a 17 but it's up to your riding style and bike geometry too. Tire you pick also makes a huge difference.
 
What style of machine are you after? HD and some other manufacturers make a few bikes that run 16/16, but as stated... Handling isn't what they're built for. If you have the Yamaha "mag" wheels, just find an 18" rear from an XS500. Should pretty much bolt right up. Again, if "mag" wheels are what toure working with, you're pretty much stuck with the 19" front so finding a taller rear for balance then lowering the forks and shorty shocks for stance are your best bet.

Now... If tou have spoked wheels (or arent against switching to spoked wheels) the options are limitless in comparison. Its a matter of finding the proper wheels and relacing them to your hubs. BradJ has a bunch of info on spoke sets and whatnot that work with XShubs.

In the end, you juat need to keep the final "look" you're after in mind and work within the safe parameters of size/compatibility.
 
maybe I don't need to change the wheels, maybe I just need to lower the forks, like I said, I haven't started on this thing yet and it's in amazing shape, still working on my kz. here is what I'll be working with.
 

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Well... I can tell you this...

If you're plan is to build a "cafe racer" styled machine, that 16 will have to go. It'll throw the whole bike out of proportion. If the plan is a brat, bobber or chopper, than the 16 can be made to work just fine with some work to the front forks. Really all just depends on what your end game is and how far down the customization rabbit hole you want to go.
 
VonYinzer said:
Well... I can tell you this...

If you're plan is to build a "cafe racer" styled machine, that 16 will have to go. It'll throw the whole bike out of proportion. If the plan is a brat, bobber or chopper, than the 16 can be made to work just fine with some work to the front forks. Really all just depends on what your end game is and how far down the customization rabbit hole you want to go.

Is there a list of what exactly is "Cafe" and what is "Brat" ??? A rule book somewhere?

I'd love to have a rule book and poke fun at everyone breaking the "Rules" .... ;D

Honestly, I see very few real "Cafe" racers in the classic sense, "strip the bike of everything unnecessary to go as fast as possible, forget comfort", but rather a style show resembling a cafe racer. How many people do you think build a cafe racer then go out and "cafe race"? I bet 1 out of 1000 is a good guess...

To me, the Cafe Set have become like Dr. Suess' "Sam I Am"..."Do you like my Cafe Racer (Hat)?"

It's O.K. with me, but makes me LOL....So where's the Rule Book on this?
 
Big Rich said:
There are a LOT of reasons why it's not a good idea. First off, tire selection sucks. Second, your front end will handle like a ton of bricks.

UMMMMMM yup! I have 16" front and rear, and it handles like dog sheeeeeooott.
 
mydlyfkryzis said:
Is there a list of what exactly is "Cafe" and what is "Brat" ??? A rule book somewhere?

I'd love to have a rule book and poke fun at everyone breaking the "Rules" .... ;D

Honestly, I see very few real "Cafe" racers in the classic sense, "strip the bike of everything unnecessary to go as fast as possible, forget comfort", but rather a style show resembling a cafe racer. How many people do you think build a cafe racer then go out and "cafe race"? I bet 1 out of 1000 is a good guess...

To me, the Cafe Set have become like Dr. Suess' "Sam I Am"..."Do you like my Cafe Racer (Hat)?"

It's O.K. with me, but makes me LOL....So where's the Rule Book on this?

Not starting shit... But this topic has been beaten to death, resuscitated, dragged trough the mud and beaten to death again on this site (and many many others).

Lets stick to helping the OP find the solution he's after. Feel free to hijack my build thread if you'd like. It'll be full on nonsense by the end anyway. ;)

(Though... For what it's worth, there are a million ways that a "cafe racer" and a "bratstyle" motorcycle are stylistically as well as functionally different. Let's hash that out elsewhere though. :) )
 
i was comtemplating putting dual 19's on my xs, stock forks more of street tracker style, nice and high!

Read up on "rake and trail".
Youll soon know what your looking for when you starting playing around with the front end geometry.
 
Taggat just beat me to it. The factory did extensive testing to come up with the best handling package for that bike as far as rake/trail. Lowering the front end will change that, and in almost every case, negatively.
 
I want to go complete money pit with this thing but do as much of it myself as i can. I want to do an engine rephase, 750 conversion, hydraulic clutch, new carbs, some sort of "cafe" seat (don't know what yet), at this point I think I'm keeping the original tank. I wanted to do some blacked out mag rims as well (going with more of a brat type thing maybe) but I might keep the spokes. now, I'm sure you are thinking, why the hell is he worried about the damn tires and rims with all this other crap he has to do? I'm glad you asked, I'll tell you. the bike rides great right now, it's still fun pre-op but I've noticed some dry rot cracking in the side wall of the back tire, not much, but it's there, otherwise the tires are good, plenty of tread etc. so i want to put new tires on it. I might as well go ahead and get the wheels set up the way they will be for going into the project instead of buying tires twice. it's not my daily driver or even my main project bike but I do like to ride it at least once a week and I have some friends that ride it when we go on rides. sorry, that seems like a lot more explanation than needed.
 
o1marc said:
Taggat just beat me to it. The factory did extensive testing to come up with the best handling package for that bike as far as rake/trail. Lowering the front end will change that, and in almost every case, negatively.

Tell that to anybody who rode a 69 Honda 750 and hit 100 m.p.h..... There were many crashes and it got out quickly that if you lowered the front end an inch in the trees it settled the bike down nicely. Back then a lot of the test riders were the size of jockeys. Put a portly American on the same bike and you had a real Jykell and Hyde situation. Every bike has room for improvement, or they wouldn't have to build new ones.
 
Chris, in my opinion the easiest thing to do would buy an 18" wheel "kit" from MikesXS. Cut the old spokes off, toss the 16" wheel and tire, and lace up the 18" rear.

Just my opinion..... YMMV
 
ApriliaBill said:
Tell that to anybody who rode a 69 Honda 750 and hit 100 m.p.h..... There were many crashes and it got out quickly that if you lowered the front end an inch in the trees it settled the bike down nicely. Back then a lot of the test riders were the size of jockeys. Put a portly American on the same bike and you had a real Jykell and Hyde situation. Every bike has room for improvement, or they wouldn't have to build new ones.

Jeeeeeesh, I sound like an arrogant ass. Didn't mean to sound that way, was just trying to say, on some of the older bikes, a few adjustments could go in a positive direction, and of course you guys could be 100% correct. But my experience has been positive (lucky?) when dealing with the cruiser type bikes, getting them closer to, I guess for lack of better term "standard" or "café"...
 
ApriliaBill said:
Tell that to anybody who rode a 69 Honda 750 and hit 100 m.p.h..... There were many crashes and it got out quickly that if you lowered the front end an inch in the trees it settled the bike down nicely. Back then a lot of the test riders were the size of jockeys. Put a portly American on the same bike and you had a real Jykell and Hyde situation. Every bike has room for improvement, or they wouldn't have to build new ones.
Maybe you missed where I said "in ALMOST every case, negatively". Sure they make improvements but show me one make that the change was only to lower the front to better it
 
This may be slightly subjective .
The Z1-900 up till the KZ1000 wore a 19" front . With the introduction of the C1 C2 C3 Police bikes we saw the first 18" front and rear . With the introduction of the GPZ1100 the front also dropped to 18" after the first year . ( speculative there as manufacture dates , sale dates , model designations get very fuzzy around that time and so do I ) . All of out race efforts after 1981 resorted to 18" front and rear as near all the tire manufactures pushed the 18" front and rear per the MOCO's shipping bikes with 18 and 18 .

The 18" tire across the board was better after a few teething problems . The reduced centrifugal mass made for easier turn in and the reduced diameter allowed for steeper head angles and engine placed further forward . All in all a good thing .

So a single make ? Sure , the one I'm most familiar with Kawasaki . Evolution of the entire market ? Absolutely . Was the 16" a good idea ? Absolutely not . Is 17" a good compromise ? Yes , however modern GP biles wear 17.5 " so 18" wasn't far off the mark .

The question however was
but show me one make that the change was only to lower the front to better it
I'd have to say a qualified yes because of the Kawasaki 1000 to the 1100 but not just to lower it but be able to increase head angle , move the engine forward , shorten the overall length and increase front suspension travel .

I've said it before . If you hadn't lived it you would not believe the force it took to get the big air coolers into and out of a turn . Bent handle bars were a daily occurrence . Scary understeer front slides were common (though preferable to the infamous 16" "tuck and cartwheel" ) and the 18" tires were a welcome replacement for the 19"

~kop
 
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