Shift linkage question with pics.

[AimSmall]

So I have two options for the linkage ball joint on the shifter side, the original honda one from a CBR with the rubber cover, or this aftermarket one that has no boot. I like the look of the the one with the boot as it maches the other one.

I cut 8x1.25 threads on the honda one after I carefully removed it from the original shifter (was pressed and peened on), the new shifter has a 6mm hole for this part which I could easily drill and tap threads into but if I do will that be secure enough to not come loose? I was thinking I could put red loctite on it too? I would just weld it but the shifter is stainless and the ball joint is not. The other option is to just bolt the aftermarket joint on and double nut it.

Once I drill the shifter, I won't be able to use the aftermarket joint if the OG honda one doesn't work out....

What do you guys think? Here's some pics to eliminate any confusion about what I'm asking.

 

[Tim]

Why if after you drill/tap the shifter could you not revert to the rod-end (the non-Honda part)? Clearly you can still slide a 6mm bolt through the drilled/tapped hole in your shifter, or you can get a rod-end with an 8mm hole and use 8mm bolts.

I'd use rod-ends at both ends of the linkage, with bolts, nyloc nuts and a touch of blue loctite for good measure.

Is one end reverse-threaded by the way? They did that sometimes so you could loosen off the lock nuts and turn the linkage rod to adjust the distance between the ends. Otherwise rotating the rod has no effect (moves off one end and further onto the other) and you have to disconnect the rod-ends from the shifter and/or the pedal to make adjustments.

 

[AimSmall]

Why if after you drill/tap the shifter could you not revert to the rod-end (the non-Honda part)? Clearly you can still slide a 6mm bolt through the drilled/tapped hole in your shifter, or you can get a rod-end with an 8mm hole and use 8mm bolts.

I'd use rod-ends at both ends of the linkage, with bolts, nyloc nuts and a touch of blue loctite for good measure.

Is one end reverse-threaded by the way? They did that sometimes so you could loosen off the lock nuts and turn the linkage rod to adjust the distance between the ends. Otherwise rotating the rod has no effect (moves off one end and further onto the other) and you have to disconnect the rod-ends from the shifter and/or the pedal to make adjustments.

I guess this would be a good back up plan if the honda stuff doesn't work as planned. Also, one is a left hand thread which does limit my selection of rod ends somewhat but I like the adjustability of it and want to keep that.

I guess it's drill and tap time and I have a back up plan if it comes loose on me.

UPDATE: Got it threaded in and put a nice little weld in the back to keep it from ever coming loose, worked out perfect