Shock absorber clevis to eye adapter?

[LWRDRTRCK]

Hagon claimed they didn't do the extension on a special order but were curious as to how they would be able to rebuild the shock after welding

well simple.... some shocks are rebuild-able and some are not. lol The ones that are not rebuild-able you obviously cannot rebuild.. make sense?

 

[Bert Jan]

You're right. Professional welder. In a professional shop. Everybody out there with a 110 buzz box should go ahead and stard welding on their shocks.

hehe a 110 buzz box. Welding shocks with stick welder pfooeeehh... that would be a completely other discussion. I was assuming the TS had a tig welder and knowledge on how to use it. MiG or sticks are deadly weapons to begin with near a shocker. WAAAAY to much heat transfer.
If we're on the hackjob tour anyway.. i once saw shocks wich had the same problem. Owner made two pieces of tubing with ID similar to shock OD. Welded clevissen on one end and drilled a hole with bolt thru the pipe, where the eye of the original shocker was. slid the tubing over the shocks and was ready to go. Does it hold? yes. Is it pretty? no.

ontopic; sell the wrong ones and get the right ones. you will do that eventually and you know it.

 

[crazypj]

true true i didn't think about it that way, I always find myself assuming people have the same knowledge and skill..

Me too but I'm not a weldor so I wouldn't recommend welding on shocks.
It would be safer and easier to cut mounts out of swing arm

 

[notlob]

well simple.... some shocks are rebuild-able and some are not. lol The ones that are not rebuild-able you obviously cannot rebuild.. make sense?

Hagon not me where curious as how someone had managed to rebuild their NON rebuild-able shocks

 

[Bert Jan]

Hagon not me where curious as how someone had managed to rebuild their NON rebuild-able shocks

So am i.

 

[crazypj]

I was looking at Koni re-builds, someone cut the swaged end open and shortened the damper rod by about 0.080" to have material to re-swage after modification/re-build.
Only possible with emulsion type twin tube shock
Awful lot of work to do it right

 

[Bert Jan]

I was looking at Koni re-builds, someone cut the swaged end open and shortened the damper rod by about 0.080" to have material to re-swage after modification/re-build.
Only possible with emulsion type twin tube shock
Awful lot of work to do it right

pfffeeww.. better just to get new ones indeed.

 

[LWRDRTRCK]

So am i.

i don't think anyone stated cutting the shock apart and rebuilding it... just cutting the clevis or eye off and welding a new one on, which is achievable

 

[Bert Jan]

i don't think anyone stated cutting the shock apart and rebuilding it... just cutting the clevis or eye off and welding a new one on, which is achievable

hmm ok i must have misunderstood then.

 

[koolio]

I'm not the worlds best welder, pretty inexperienced actually, I do it with a fluxed stick welder (the no gas tank type). That's why I would prefer to stay away from what are to me serious structural jobs such as modifying shocks and swing arms.

The other alternative for me would be to keep the new Hagons, and look for another swing arm that would fit a CB500t perhaps from an older Kawa or Suzuki that have the standard eye to eye fitment and solve the forever problem of the annoying odd one out Honda eye to clevis.

 

[Bert Jan]

I'm not the worlds best welder, pretty inexperienced actually, I do it with a fluxed stick welder (the no gas tank type). That's why I would prefer to stay away from what are to me serious structural jobs such as modifying shocks and swing arms.

The other alternative for me would be to keep the new Hagons, and look for another swing arm that would fit a CB500t perhaps from an older Kawa or Suzuki that have the standard eye to eye fitment and solve the forever problem of the annoying odd one out Honda eye to clevis.

just return them for the correct ones. 9 of 10 times changing a complete rear-end is a difficult job. axle diameter, frame spacing, chain allignment, bladibla... Just get the right shocks. I'm sure Hagon gets that request al lot of times, and because you're trading them they do not loose money. Goodluck!

 

[redbiker]

just for the record, I meant to weld an eye to the swingarm where the clevis is and not weld the shock. Yes I said weld the shock, my bad. sorry

 

[Scruffy]

Fluxed stick? You mean a standard electric arc welder? The kind most shops build trailer frames and do other structural fitting/welding with?

I do tacking with a 110v flux core wire feed, then run the parts up the road a few miles to have them finish welded correctly. A 220v flux core wire feed can handle structural, but since I only have 110v or gas rigs...

Just exchange the shocks for the right ones. Easier, cheaper, and a whole lot safer than an adapter. You can still buy adapters and relocators but, they suck as bad now as they did in the 1970s.

 

[bradj]

I do tacking with a 110v flux core wire feed, then run the parts up the road a few miles to have them finish welded correctly. A 220v flux core wire feed can handle structural, but since I only have 110v or gas rigs...

where on earth did you come up with this

 

[Scruffy]

Heavy equipment repair shop I worked at. We used a Lincoln wire feed, Lincoln 11# flux core spools. Rig was set up to run flux core or swap out for standard mig wire and gas. Mostly used flux core.

Home shop I have 2 110v flux core machines. Can also weld with my oxy-acetylene rigs (have 5) or the true old fashioned way, anvil and forge with straight borax as the welding flux. I've been hammer welding wagon wheel hoops and Damascus steel blade billets since I was 10...

With the volume of projects around my place, I tend to do cutting, lay up and tacking, and then drop the items off for final welding elsewhere. 400 pecan trees and an 1841 plantation house eat up a lot of my time. Plus the 1960 in ground swimming pool, the 1925 garage, 1925 cattle barn, the 2 acre pond to maintain, several commercial organic produce fields to manage...