Snapped brand new Speed Bleeder in Caliper

[manualofman]

So I've been in the process of rebuilding the front caliper on my CB450 K3 (with a K5 front end). I was waiting on Speed Bleeders to come in from DCC. Today they showed up, and not more than 3 hours later, I find myself with the bleeder valve snapped in half while I was tightening it down. :'(

After Googling it, I found that a lot of people have had this problem and its because of overtightening them? I figured it should seat as far as possible, and the second after I started hitting some resistance, SNAP! I must've pulled a little too hard.

Has anyone else had this problem? I've gotten broken bolts out before (i snapped a fork oil drain bolt). It's ironic that I've done it again. The only problem is that I think there's a ball bearing down there that's making it difficult to shove an allen key down there to back it out. Someone on another forum suggested putting an allen key in there with some JB weld, let it set overnight, and try it then.

I'm really hoping I won't need to bring it to a machine shop or worse, have to buy a new caliper!

 

[Rocan]

Definitely over tightened it. They just need to be a little snug. Allen key is a good idea, but if its stuck in their really tightly then it might not come out with just that much.

The proper thing to do is to get a dremel with a tiny cut off disk and cut a slot for a flathead screwdriver, then hit it with an impact driver.

 

[manualofman]

thanks Rocan. I'm debating also buying a left hand drill extractor set. It seems like I'll have more busted bolts in my future.

My local hardware store doesnt have any dremel cut off wheels small enough i dont think, i'll have to check online for that. that's definitely the cheapest option and i could probably still go the extractor method afterwards too!

 

[hillsy]

If there is still part of the speed bleeder sticcking out of the caliper you can cut a slot in in with a hacksaw.

 

[manualofman]

Update: Well, I borrowed a few tools from a friend, including a Snap-On left handed drill + extractor set. Wound up snapping an extractor bit inside the valve too! So now I'm drilling out an extractor and a valve.

Also, the broken bit is just under flush with the hole (it always winds up that way!)

I passed it off to the friend I borrowed the tools from, he has more extractor bits along with a press at his shop so hes going to give it a whirl.

 

[manualofman]

So after attempting to remove it with a Snap-On extractor, the extractor tip snapped off inside the caliper!! My friend offered to try removing it with some of his extractor at a shop he has accessed to and broke something else off inside of it.

My options are asking a machine shop to drill it out and retap it. Or buying a whole new caliper. Does anyone know which would be cheaper? I'm seeing new calipers on eBay for about $150. I have no idea what a machine shop would charge though.

Or would it be cheaper to find a front caliper assembly off another bike that might fit? I just don't know how I'd mount it without changing out my newly machined forks!

 

[Swapmeet Louie]

Lefty loosie-righty tighty!

 

[manualofman]

Righty-too-tightey is what got me into this mess.

 

[Kanticoy]

I have a used k3 caliper that should work. I'm sure it needs rebuilt as it's off of a parts bike...

Mad science bitches!

 

[manualofman]

Surprisingly, it appears the K5 caliper part (just the side with the piston) is about $110 shipped from cmnsl. They are cheaper than the K3 part, go figure.

 

[juskh125cafe]

I had the same problem on a Honda. The screw extractors are hardened steel if they brake they are just about impossible to drill out.
I took mine to a tool workshop, They used a laser to blast it out. Because the caliper is alloy it isnt effected, It cost me $40 bucks.
There was no damage to the thread, problem solved

 

[manualofman]

I had the same problem on a Honda. The screw extractors are hardened steel if they brake they are just about impossible to drill out.
I took mine to a tool workshop, They used a laser to blast it out. Because the caliper is alloy it isnt effected, It cost me $40 bucks.
There was no damage to the thread, problem solved

interesting, ive never heard of that method for extractors. nice idea!

for the time being, i'm doing to buy a new caliper if i can swing it for ~$50 and deal with the broken one later.