SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750 - ITS DONE!!!
- Thread starter brycegp
- Start date
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
Thanks, man!
I can't even believe that I am saying this but I still don't have the parts back from the painter. I've been to the shop four times and each time there has been some issue. He promises it'll be done tomorrow...crossing my fingers.
cb 400 t said:
Thanks, man!
I can't even believe that I am saying this but I still don't have the parts back from the painter. I've been to the shop four times and each time there has been some issue. He promises it'll be done tomorrow...crossing my fingers.
SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
Awww yeah!!!
buttoning up all the wiring in the rats nest today. and then I can fire it up!!
gotta get the seat pan upholstered.
and I am still looking for just the right tank emblems...
it's all together while I put on the finishing touches...same as before but with paint...
Awww yeah!!!
buttoning up all the wiring in the rats nest today. and then I can fire it up!!
gotta get the seat pan upholstered.
and I am still looking for just the right tank emblems...
it's all together while I put on the finishing touches...same as before but with paint...
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
Yes sir, I can definitely dig it.
Yes sir, I can definitely dig it.
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
what are your thots on this fuel filter/line look? Its still not tightened down so it looks a little off. I like it but hate the strap I have...need a sexier strap to mount the fuel filter with....any ideas for a better strap??
on the choke side, it is a little close to the choke lever...
what are your thots on this fuel filter/line look? Its still not tightened down so it looks a little off. I like it but hate the strap I have...need a sexier strap to mount the fuel filter with....any ideas for a better strap??
on the choke side, it is a little close to the choke lever...
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
The reason its loose is because I didn't want to mess up that hole. I need to find out if I shouldn't put it there. The hole looks like it doesn't go anywhere...because the hole isn't drilled out on outside of #1 &4...but is the hole that allows the carbs to share fuel 1 to 2 to 3 to 4. It shouldn't be a problem to put a screw in it...anyone know better?
sxecafe said:
The reason its loose is because I didn't want to mess up that hole. I need to find out if I shouldn't put it there. The hole looks like it doesn't go anywhere...because the hole isn't drilled out on outside of #1 &4...but is the hole that allows the carbs to share fuel 1 to 2 to 3 to 4. It shouldn't be a problem to put a screw in it...anyone know better?
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
Electrical question:
So I am wiring up all the gizmos in the headlight bucket. A weird thing is happening. First, I put a switch on the headlight to reduce the load on the system during start up...due to sized down battery. Also, the bike has mini LED turn signals with an electronic flasher.
I turn on the key and with the headlight switch turned OFF...the turn signals will work...flashing...left and right sides both work as they should with the turn signal switch. If you turn the headlight switch ON (with the headlight plugged in), the turn signals stop working.
But here is where it is confusing me. If I unplug the headlight from its switch so no load is being put on the system by the headlight, the turn signals will work with the headlight switch BOTH ON AND OFF. But plug the headlight back in and the turn signals stop working.
So the problem begins with the introduction of the headlight load on the system. Could the load from the headlight make the flasher or the mini LEDs no get enough power to function?
Electrical question:
So I am wiring up all the gizmos in the headlight bucket. A weird thing is happening. First, I put a switch on the headlight to reduce the load on the system during start up...due to sized down battery. Also, the bike has mini LED turn signals with an electronic flasher.
I turn on the key and with the headlight switch turned OFF...the turn signals will work...flashing...left and right sides both work as they should with the turn signal switch. If you turn the headlight switch ON (with the headlight plugged in), the turn signals stop working.
But here is where it is confusing me. If I unplug the headlight from its switch so no load is being put on the system by the headlight, the turn signals will work with the headlight switch BOTH ON AND OFF. But plug the headlight back in and the turn signals stop working.
So the problem begins with the introduction of the headlight load on the system. Could the load from the headlight make the flasher or the mini LEDs no get enough power to function?
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
Are you testing all of this while the bike is running? Could be that the load is too much while the bike isn't running.
Are you testing all of this while the bike is running? Could be that the load is too much while the bike isn't running.
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
No. The bike isn't running...I'm in the final stages of wiring it. And just doing the troubleshooting as I go...to avoid multiple issues when its done and have no idea where I went wrong.
JustinLonghorn said:
No. The bike isn't running...I'm in the final stages of wiring it. And just doing the troubleshooting as I go...to avoid multiple issues when its done and have no idea where I went wrong.
SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
The headlight is grounded at the same spot as everything else in the headlight bucket is grounded to. Didn't think it mattered where it was grounded...everything is ultimately grounded to the frame of the bike, no?
Curtis said:
The headlight is grounded at the same spot as everything else in the headlight bucket is grounded to. Didn't think it mattered where it was grounded...everything is ultimately grounded to the frame of the bike, no?
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
I tried removing the flasher from the equation. I hard wired the turns sigs (they won't flash now obviously) and the system works. The headlight plugged jn works AND left/right turn sigs illuminate (but again...don't flash due to no flasher).
...the flasher seems to be the weak link. Any idea why and how to fix??
I tried removing the flasher from the equation. I hard wired the turns sigs (they won't flash now obviously) and the system works. The headlight plugged jn works AND left/right turn sigs illuminate (but again...don't flash due to no flasher).
...the flasher seems to be the weak link. Any idea why and how to fix??
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
Here is the issue. Originally the bike is wired with a 2-prong thermo-mechanical flasher. Which means...a + electric current goes in one terminal and goes out the second terminal to your blinkers. When enough current has been drawn thru the flasher by turning on your blinker, the breaker inside the flasher heats up and then "breaks" (turning your blinker off)...quickly cools down...closes the circuit again (turning your blinker back on)...heats up and breaks again...so on and so on. This type of flasher is load dependent so you want power passing thru it. So my system is wired so that the flasher delivers a + electric signal to the blinkers. All the blinkers have a constant ground to the frame and intermittent power from the flasher.
Well...you can't just install a 3-prong electronic flasher to that same system because they work differently.
An electronic flasher is built to deliver a - (ground) signal to the blinkers. A positive and negative wire is run into the flasher to power its internal mechanism. That mechanism creates an intermittent - (ground) signal that goes out to the blinkers. So it works the opposite of the 2-prong flasher where this time all the blinkers have constant power from the battery and intermittent ground from the flasher. This flasher is NOT load dependent so power does not pass thru it...
I was passing power thru a 3 prong flasher and the introduction of the headlight made the load on the system too great for the flasher to handle.
THE ANSWER: I have gone back to the 2 prong flasher. But now I am back to my original problem...my mini LEDs don't draw enough juice to heat up and trip the thermo-mechanical switch inside the flasher. So I bought these Load Equalizers...they increase the juice your mini LED lights draw thru the flasher making it trip the switch and blink...
Here is the issue. Originally the bike is wired with a 2-prong thermo-mechanical flasher. Which means...a + electric current goes in one terminal and goes out the second terminal to your blinkers. When enough current has been drawn thru the flasher by turning on your blinker, the breaker inside the flasher heats up and then "breaks" (turning your blinker off)...quickly cools down...closes the circuit again (turning your blinker back on)...heats up and breaks again...so on and so on. This type of flasher is load dependent so you want power passing thru it. So my system is wired so that the flasher delivers a + electric signal to the blinkers. All the blinkers have a constant ground to the frame and intermittent power from the flasher.
Well...you can't just install a 3-prong electronic flasher to that same system because they work differently.
An electronic flasher is built to deliver a - (ground) signal to the blinkers. A positive and negative wire is run into the flasher to power its internal mechanism. That mechanism creates an intermittent - (ground) signal that goes out to the blinkers. So it works the opposite of the 2-prong flasher where this time all the blinkers have constant power from the battery and intermittent ground from the flasher. This flasher is NOT load dependent so power does not pass thru it...
I was passing power thru a 3 prong flasher and the introduction of the headlight made the load on the system too great for the flasher to handle.
THE ANSWER: I have gone back to the 2 prong flasher. But now I am back to my original problem...my mini LEDs don't draw enough juice to heat up and trip the thermo-mechanical switch inside the flasher. So I bought these Load Equalizers...they increase the juice your mini LED lights draw thru the flasher making it trip the switch and blink...
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
I ran a solid state LED flasher unit on my cafe. Worked beautifully. Two-wire setup. It makes zero noise (no click-click), and it requires no load equalizers. It is pretty small too.
I ran a solid state LED flasher unit on my cafe. Worked beautifully. Two-wire setup. It makes zero noise (no click-click), and it requires no load equalizers. It is pretty small too.
Re: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750
I was bored and can't sleep so I tried to summarize all the elements of the bike.
1971 CB750K frame
1975 CB750F motor w/ all finned aluminum engine covers
4 into 2 stainless steel headers w/ glass packed baffles inside shorty pencil tips
Rebuilt carbs with polished aluminum velocity stacks
Dual front disc break conversion with stainless steel braided lines
1965 CB450 "Black Bomber" Gas Tank
Hand made, one-off, polished aluminum tail section
Custom made, one-off oil tank with stainless steel braided oil lines
1960's CEV headlight bucket w/ custom speedo, lights and switches inside
1970's SEV Marchal H1 headlight
1980 CB750 Swingarm
1975 CB550F forks w/ progressive springs
New rear shocks
New chrome chain
Smoothed and polished top triple tree
New stainless steel braided clutch and throttle cables
Custom wheels, 18" Harley hoops laced up to the stock hubs with stainless steel spokes
Coker 2" white wall tires, 450x18 front and rear
Chrome clip-on handle bars
ALL new bearings and bushings. Upgraded to tapered bearings in the neck.
All screws replaced with stainless steel or chrome socket cap screws.
Custom made foot pegs
Micro LED turn signals and tail lights
New wiring harness. All electrical relocated under the tail section.
I was bored and can't sleep so I tried to summarize all the elements of the bike.
1971 CB750K frame
1975 CB750F motor w/ all finned aluminum engine covers
4 into 2 stainless steel headers w/ glass packed baffles inside shorty pencil tips
Rebuilt carbs with polished aluminum velocity stacks
Dual front disc break conversion with stainless steel braided lines
1965 CB450 "Black Bomber" Gas Tank
Hand made, one-off, polished aluminum tail section
Custom made, one-off oil tank with stainless steel braided oil lines
1960's CEV headlight bucket w/ custom speedo, lights and switches inside
1970's SEV Marchal H1 headlight
1980 CB750 Swingarm
1975 CB550F forks w/ progressive springs
New rear shocks
New chrome chain
Smoothed and polished top triple tree
New stainless steel braided clutch and throttle cables
Custom wheels, 18" Harley hoops laced up to the stock hubs with stainless steel spokes
Coker 2" white wall tires, 450x18 front and rear
Chrome clip-on handle bars
ALL new bearings and bushings. Upgraded to tapered bearings in the neck.
All screws replaced with stainless steel or chrome socket cap screws.
Custom made foot pegs
Micro LED turn signals and tail lights
New wiring harness. All electrical relocated under the tail section.
