Spark on left cylinder but not on right for my CL350; NEED HELP!

[Jared]

Okay so here is the deal, I finished the racing wiring harness for my cl350 track bike and I tested the spark. I got a rather fat one from the left cylinder but not the right. But whenever I manually open the right point I get spark to it. So is my points gap in correct? And how do I set them? Oh and quick part question, will the xl350 triple tree be a direct fit for my cl? I want the extra bolt on the bottom so nothing slips, and I can lower the shock height. Let me know please!!!

 

[blake57]

sounds like a bad coil or a bad spark plug wire. Something from your points on.... You dont know how to set your points? Wow. im 17 and i know how to do that. Just buy an adjustable triple tree on ebay.. theres plenty. And nothing should slip if you have everything snug. Get a shop manual and a clymers manual. good luck.

Blake.

 

[Jared]

Coils are not bad, or else there would be no spark when I manually open them. No need to be a dick either about the points, I'm a year younger than you. Plus the clymers manual doesn't go that in depth about setting them.

 

[Koestum]

Okay so here is the deal, I finished the racing wiring harness for my cl350 track bike and I tested the spark. I got.....

How did you test it?

The plug-cap screw might not be touching the plug wire. Unscrew the cap off the wire, cut a quarter inch off the wire, screw the cap back on and try again.

 

[Jared]

Guys read what I said lol! I said if I manually open the point then I get spark to the right cylinder!

 

[hond cb350e]

check the timming or the pionts could be durty

 

[teazer]

Are the points adjusted correctly with the same gap both sides? It almost sounds like one set is not opening. Did one lose the rubbing block (the part that rubs on the points cam)?

 

[Jared]

Okay, I think that it is that its not opening to the correct distance. The coils, points, and condensor where off a running bike. So I am going to adjust the gap and I think it will be good.

 

[blake57]

Coils are not bad, or else there would be no spark when I manually open them. No need to be a dick either about the points, I'm a year younger than you. Plus the clymers manual doesn't go that in depth about setting them.

alright alright. sorry man. I guess i did come off as a dick there...

To set the points you look for the two screws that will losen the points and loosen them.. Then set them by taking a flat tip screw driver and moving the gap using the two raised blips (its real easy) then retighted the screws you loosened.. you need a feeler gauge to set the gap...

 

[kMoto]

I had a similar problem on my 360. Ended up being low battery voltage. I don't know much about the 350 though. Apparently on the 360's when the battery is even remotely low, funny things will happen. In my case, all the available juice was getting used up by one coil and leaving nothing for the other. Hooked it up to a 12v supply and it ran perfect, pulled it off, back to one cylinder.

That's after I troubleshot my way through, points settings and wiring.

Blakes not entirely wrong though, there's enough info here to figure out how to adjust your points. "And how do I set them?", is just being lazy.

 

[kMoto]

Btw, the best thing you can do when messing with points is to truly understand how they work. Research, research, research.

 

[Jared]

"how do I set them" is my question on adjusting them. Thanks for all of your "help"

 

[teazer]

Remove both plugs.
Remove alternator cover so you can see the timing marks on the rotor
Remove points cover
Turn motor over until T mark is aligned. That's TDC on the right pot. Now we have to keep in mind that it passes that point twice per cycle - once when it's on the firing stroke and once with both valves open. Check to see if both valves on that side are open slightly or completely closed. If you are not sure, rotate the motor slowly while watching the valves. If the exhaust is closing as the piston rises toward TDC, it's on the wrong stroke, so go another revolution.

Then measure the gap for the right side set of points. You want it to be around 14 thou, ie 0.014" when it's fully open. you should be able to see the points starting to open at the T mark. Continue to rotate teh motor until that point set is wide open and that's where you measure the gap.

If you look carefully at each set of points there will be two pairs of screws (typically). One set allows the whole set of points to move to change timing. The other screws allow the fixed plat to move slightly to change the gap. Check your manual for pictures to make it clearer.

Repeat on the other side - I mean the other set of points.

 

[teazer]

To be fair to Kmoto, he's right. Check the manual and if you don't have one you should get one ASAP. If possible get two. No. Not two copies of the same manual. Say a Haynes and a Clymer or factory service manual because none of them is perfect and together they may provide a more comprehensive picture.

 

[blake57]

I had a similar problem on my 360. Ended up being low battery voltage. I don't know much about the 350 though. Apparently on the 360's when the battery is even remotely low, funny things will happen. In my case, all the available juice was getting used up by one coil and leaving nothing for the other. Hooked it up to a 12v supply and it ran perfect, pulled it off, back to one cylinder.

That's after I troubleshot my way through, points settings and wiring.

Blakes not entirely wrong though, there's enough info here to figure out how to adjust your points. "And how do I set them?", is just being lazy.

i tryed to give you a somewhat accurate description man.. did you even read my post Jared? what seems to be the problem. And we are HELPING you.. you just won't listen to us.