Speedometer & Tachometer Assistance

andreas_boman@hotmail.com

Been Around the Block
Hi guys,

I wan in to a bit of trouble today when removing my old speedy & tacho. I understand hos to fit the tacho, but the speedo is harder since it's got speed, oil, neutral etc. inside, and the cables are hard to understand.

I bought this speedo from DCC and have 10 colors and no idea which one that I should connect to or how. I'll attach pictures of how my gauges looked, and the new one.

Thanks for all help!
 

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And to add:

The old lights:

- Turn signals have 2 wires each (lamp and signal) = 4
- Neutral has 2 (lamp and neutral) = 2
- "full" light has 2 (lamp and full light) = 2
- Oil have 2
- Gas have 2

The old speedo:

- 4 wires light
- 2 wires unknown.

Will take picture of this asap.
 
There was a wiring diagram included with the new speedometer, correct? Post it up here along with a copy of your original and somebody will be along shortly to straighten you out.
 
Big Rich said:
There was a wiring diagram included with the new speedometer, correct? Post it up here along with a copy of your original and somebody will be along shortly to straighten you out.

Unfortunately no wiring diagram included in the box... Trying to find a original wiring as we speak.
 
the wire colors match the color of the lamps.
Turn Yellow, yellow black neg
neutral Green, green black neg
oil Red, red black
hi beam blue , blue black
speedo light, orange, black
 
pr design said:
the wire colors match the color of the lamps.
Turn Yellow, yellow black neg
neutral Green, green black neg
oil Red, red black
hi beam blue , blue black
speedo light, orange, black

Perfect! Thanks. Think I've managed it now. The hard part was the negative ones. Gonna test it tomorrow to see what happens.
 

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Since your bike currently has left and right indicator lamps for flashers, you'll need to combine the gray and green wires in your harness. You CAN NOT simply connect gray, green and yellow together.

You'll need some diodes; 12v 15 watt. Wire the two Cathodes (the end with the stripe) together with the yellow wire on the gauge. Connect gray to one of the diodes and green to the other one.

This will prevent current from leaking through one signal circuit into the other. It will also allow either blinker switch position to light the indicator in your gauge.

See Sonreir's schematic here.

-Deek
 
Bought some diods and now connected the two signal cables into 2 diods and connected it to the speedometer. Still, this doesn't work. Weird thing is that the backlight works on speedometer, as well as full headlight light on speedometer. The signal light on speedometer lights up but doesn't blink, and the neutral light doesn't work.

Someone got ideas why the signals doesn't work? Guess that the other parts are not connected correctly.
 

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So the turn signal lamps light and the turn signal indicator in the gauge lights but they don't blink? I would say you have a bad blinker or did you switch to LED lamps? You'll need an electronic blinker if you've switched to LED lamps.

The neutral light is something else; it appears to get +12v from the brown lead then the ground (light green) is switched. Is that how you have it wired?

Did the neutral light work on the old gauge?

-Deek
 
ILoveThumpers said:
So the turn signal lamps light and the turn signal indicator in the gauge lights but they don't blink? I would say you have a bad blinker or did you switch to LED lamps? You'll need an electronic blinker if you've switched to LED lamps.

The neutral light is something else; it appears to get +12v from the brown lead then the ground (light green) is switched. Is that how you have it wired?

Did the neutral light work on the old gauge?

-Deek

Exactly. The signal lights light, and the turn signal indicator in the gauge lights but don't blink. Yes, I switched to LED lamps. Might that be the problem? What do you mean with an electronic blinker? So if I would put the old turn signals on now, it would work?

The neutral light did work on the old gauge, and now it's wired (+green to the speedometer) and (- neutral together with - oil) back I guess. I'm not positive that's correct and that the - neutral should be combined with the - oil.
 
An electronic blinker will blink the same speed no matter what load is applied. A traditional blinker will blink different speeds (or not at all) depending on the current flowing through it. So if your blinker worked with traditional bulbs, you had enough load to cause the old blinker to cycle. Now that you've switched to LED bulbs, there's hardly any current through your blinker and it never cycles. You can pick up an electronic blinker (sometimes called "LED blinkers") at most automotive stores. Just make sure you pick one up that has the same number of terminals as your bike.

It appears that the brown wire on your neutral indicator light is shared with the brown wire on the oil pressure indicator light in your stock wiring loom. That's ground in your stock loom. The oil pressure light is combined with the "tail lamp failure" feature of your bike, though and if you've changed it to LED, it's likely that circuit may not function. I'm guessing there's some kind of device between the ground on your tail lamp and that light that will ground the indicator lamp if it doesn't sense current through the tail lamp. Again, if it's and LED there might not be enough current to activate that device.

You may have to skip that particular feature for now and only wire the oil light to the oil pressure circuit. (It should light when you turn the bike on, but extinguish once the bike is running) Or your pressure sensor (switch) is faulty.

-Deek
 
Do you have a high-resolution wiring diagram for your bike? The only one I can find for the D4 online is terribly low resolution and I can barely read it. If I had a higher resolution one I might be able to help you better!

-Deek
 
ILoveThumpers said:
Since your bike currently has left and right indicator lamps for flashers, you'll need to combine the gray and green wires in your harness. You CAN NOT simply connect gray, green and yellow together.

You'll need some diodes; 12v 15 watt. Wire the two Cathodes (the end with the stripe) together with the yellow wire on the gauge. Connect gray to one of the diodes and green to the other one.

I am working on this very project right now, exact same speedo. Everything is working perfectly except the turn signals. ('81 CB750F) so I have the two turn signal wires.

Freaking Radio Shack only had 12V 1W diodes. I'm thinking this is a problem, though as I search Amazon and Ebay and other interwebs retailers, I can't seem to find 12V 15W diodes...

Am I an idiot?
 
Sonreir said:
Look for a 1N4004 diode. You can find them damn near anywhere that sells electronics.

Thanks. Apparently there are four Radio Shack's close to me. The one I popped into today was the only one out of stock on 1N4004. :p
 
Sonreir said:
Look for a 1N4004 diode. You can find them damn near anywhere that sells electronics.

Once these things are wired in there, should I wrap them each in tape or put a long shrink wrap around them each? I'm assuming they can't be touching each other or any other metal or each other for fear of my turn signals exploding and my bike catching on fire as I'm cruising past some ladies trying to look cool?
 
Yes you should always insulate all connections.

The diode itself is not conductive (except at very high voltages) but you should insulate them anyway from vibration.

-Deek
 
Sonreir said:
Look for a 1N4004 diode. You can find them damn near anywhere that sells electronics.

Finally completed this exact job tonight. Everything works perfectly. Thanks for the posts guys.
 

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jacksondee said:
Finally completed this exact job tonight. Everything works perfectly. Thanks for the posts guys.

It did? NICE! Did you have a separate negative (-) to each cable(+), or as I, like only 3 or 4 (-) for all the (+)?

Asking since I still have a problem with the lights...
I believe that I have the problem since there are not enough negatives (-) and I guess I've fixed them at the wrong place..
 
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