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My 1980 SR250 is in need of an oil top-up. First time since I bought it. According to the manual it takes 20w-40, which I learned today is very hard to find after stopping in at 3 different auto parts stores, the last one claiming it's been discontinued. Even online it seems rare. I found a couple things like this: http://tinyurl.com/naypldc. Which I feel good that it's made by Yamaha, but does it matter that it's marine oil?
i wouldn't use an outboard engine oil even for a 4 stroke unless i was stuck, they have different needs than an aircooled engine that said it could be the same oil i dunno
you can get motorcycle specific oils at auto parts stores or walmart 10-40 should be fine i dont think i have ever seen 20-40 20-50 would probably be ok as well basically it only will be slightly thicker than 20-40 in very hot high heat conditions which may even be a bonus if the engine has a good amount of wear
the other option is a diesel truck oil like shell rotella t which is a bargain by the gallon at walmart oil ,i use whatever isd on sale when i go in the local auto parts has castrol mc on special often
but don't use automobile oil most all of it it lacks an additve zddp ,zinc,that reacts badly with cat converters but your engine needs it for the cam followers
and some car only oils have certain friction modifiesr that could cause clutch slippage
some people get carried away with brand loyalty truth is the engine needs mostly an oil with the zddp zinc that is the top concern even a clutch is easier to fix than a cam
you can google "zddp oil list" and can get even more confused
xb33bsa: thanks for the insight. I was doing some googling and actually came across some info about the friction modifiers you mentioned. The article listed specific types of oil that use those, I forget what they are now of course. I'll look for a motorcycle specific oil.
Tim: you're right, I don't know what oil is in there now. I'm getting some seepage through the head gasket and valve covers which is why I need to "top up". I'm planning on changing the gaskets this winter. It didn't really cross my mind though that it might be bad to mix oils. The PO said it recently had an oil change so I figure the oil inside is in good shape and I would just add to it. But now I will certainly do a full change including filter. Thanks for the help.
As for 10w40 vs. 20w50, from what I understand the 10w is better for cold climates, and since it's getting a bit chilly here in philly I think I'll go with 10w40. Then I'll probably change to 20w50 when I bring the bike back out in spring.
I didn't mean to suggest it might be bad to mix oils - as xb says, no big deal. I just figured if you didn't know what was in it, chances are it's older than you want it to be and for the few extra bucks it's worth draining it and slapping a new filter in.
If the PO says it was recently changed, and you're planning on tearing it down soon anyhow, then just top it off. So long as you're not in Australia.
I am a big fan of Rotella. To the point of using it in everything - car, trucks, 2 and 4 -stroke mc - everything. Never seen a clutch issue, and have seen examples of markedly improved transmission action (shifting) due solely to changing the oil from dedicated name brand trans oil. I am using the standard oil - not the synthetic.
Ah I see what you mean now. I'll just top her up then. Won't be riding much longer this season anywho. Sorry your Australia joke went over my head hehe
xb and jp my interest is peaked in this rotella now. Sounds like a delicious italian dish.
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