SR500 carb

redlinedave

Been Around the Block
any info on carb rebuild?
my bike wont do anything but idle and is very hard to start.
stalls as soon as givin any throttle...
 
Have you disassembled and cleaned it? There pretty simple carbs (there's only one of anything ;) )

My first thought is maybe the main jet is sitting in the bottom of the float bowl :(
 
I dropped out the bowl and thing look clean. gonna give it a good spray of carb cleaner tonight after work.
 
You need to pull the carb off, totally disassemble it and blow every jet and passage clear with carb cleaner and compressed air. Anything short of this is just more work for you in the long run.
 
In my opinion for a single the SR500 stock pumper carb is one of the most complicated I've ever worked on. One little thing off--torn diaphragm or one thing changed--intake, exhaust--and you're screwed. When you got it cleaned and adjusted however it works amazing. What year?
 
1978...dont think its a carb issue now.I think my engine is done. I did the carb cleaner trick and bike starts and runs for about a minute or two then stalls. pulled plug and it si oil fouled. I did a compression test got about 110lbs after 4 or 5 kicks.
Could a big back fire have blown oil seals?somewhere in engine?
 
Backfiring won't blow the rings or valve stem seals, but the motor might be overfilled with oil.

There's a shouldered bolt on the oil filter cover that often gets replaced with a non-shouldered bolt. This then allows excess oil into the crankcase and the engine will smoke.

Have a look over on

http://www.sr500forum.com/forum

and do a search - it's been discussed there (I think it's in their FAQ's).

110 psi sounds low though - did you have the throttle wide open or have the carb off when you did the test??
 
Low compression doesn't mean bad rings - poorly adjusted valves, valve job needed, head gasket leaking... all sorts of other 'normal' potential causes for lower compression.

To really nail it down you need to do a leak-down test. Basically you're putting compressed air into the cylinder via the spark plug (like a reverse compression test) and seeing where the air leaks out when at TDC.

If it leaks out the open oil-filler, or in the SR's case, out the hole where the oil hose connects to the engine case or drain hole, then it's rings (air goes past the rings, into the engine case and out the hole)

If it leaks out the carb, it's intake valves

If it leaks out the exhaust, it's exhaust valves

If it leaks out the head gasket... well, you get the idea ;)

Much more definitive test. I got myself a Snap-On leakdown tester a while back on eBay for $40 but honestly haven't had a reason to use it yet, so I'm no expert, but if you're chasing compression issues and don't necessarily want to rebuild the engine, then it's a good place to start.

I'd check the 'mechanical' things first of course. Timing, valve adjustments to start, to make sure everything is where it is supposed to be at TDC. At 110 PSI the engine should run fine.
 
That's all good advice Tim but he's saying his spark plug is oil fouled, so there's oil getting in the cylinder.

But yes - check your valve clearances and check the oil quantity / that bolt and O ring I mentioned and do the compression test again.

How long has this bike been sitting? My XT had the rings stuck in the piston after it was sitting for a few years and it was a nightmare to get them out (I was hoping they might free up after I got the bike running but that would never have happened).

Worst case scenario you have to pull the motor down - but they are REALLY simple motors to work on so don't worry ;)
 
I changed the plug to a brand new one, bike ran great for about 18 km the started to act up, would sputter at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, then finally stalled out.
got it to restart made it home pulled plug. was very black and seemed to have a bit of oil on it.
 

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