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So, I noticed a noise coming from the left side of my engine. Opened it up to find the Starter Chain very loose (A-Circle)!
I sat and read the book, couldn't find anything to tell me wether or not I can tension this chain or how thick the idle pad should be (B-Circle).
Sat and stared at the thing too for about an hour, just willing the solution to jump out at me...not so much.
Do you guys think I need either a new chain, new idle pad (don't really know what to call it; B-Circle in pic) or is there something I'm missing that will allow me to tension the chain?
Yeah it looks like either that pad can slide forward a lot, or one of the bolts is missing and its shifted. Im not familiar with the way the starter works on the 360 though so thats just a guess based on what i can see.
I have this very same bike. The chain tension shouldn't be a problem. This part of your bike is not moving when the engine is on. That chain is only used to start the bike. I guarantee you that the weights and springs behind the alternator rotor are sticking.
That is what happened to mine. I only got a weird noise when i started it thou. I also thought it was the chain first. So if your getting the noises while the engine is running then something between that starter rotor and the large starter sprocket (far left in image) is stuck or missing.
Check out Page 10 of my build thread in my signature. I have a diagram image posted.
here is the post. I fixed it by finding a new rotor off ebay. Came with weights and springs. Open yours up and check if the insides are heavily scored. Do your best to find a new and complete rotor on ebay with the bottom bell w/weights and all.
Starter, rotor weights and springs.
So I finally had a chance to analyze the problem with my starter. The starter motor, shaft, sprocket, and chain are fine. I actually noticed that the alternator rotor has some type of roller weights that engage the engine when the electric start was triggered. After further disassembly I noticed that the bottom bell that holds the springs and weights was heavily scored from the friction of the weights.
I don't know if this was causing my problem of the rotor not fulling engaging and sounding like a ratchet that wasn't working right but I order a new rotor anyways that will have smooth surfaces for the weight and springs to operate.
Has anyone ever had any trouble or experience with the starting chain and weights or pins in the bottom of the alternator rotor?
Skate & Bob: I thought you could adjust the pad as well, but it seems it is a fixed plate. There is nothing missing either. The only idea I have is that maybe the pad has been worn over time and might just need to be replaced. Problem is, if I find one on the ebay, there's no way to tell if I'm getting one in better condition than the one I have.
SrgtBear: The noise seems to be a bit like yours; Happens at start up and then goes away. The annoying thing about it is that you can hear the thing rattle around when revving the bike. Its good to know it doesn't move though after start up. I was mostly worried with it coming off and ripping up the insides while I'm on the bike at speed...I've heard nasty things about chains coming off mid-ride. I'll have to take a look at that rotor and see if mine has similar wear as yours.
Yes it did. You'll have to remove that big bolt that holds the altenator rotor on. Don't worry thought, your whole engine wont fall apart. The bolt will just allow you to remove the rotor and the sprocket behind it. You can leave the sprocket.
Once you have the rotor off be careful not to lose the springs or weights that fall out of the bottom. Flip the rotor upside down and you will see 3 allen bolts. Remove them and you will be able to pull off the bottom bell. Check to see if there are circlular scoring marks from the circular weights. Chance are if your having the same problems you will have them.
Solution: Look for a whole new complete rotor on ebay. Look at the images very carefully. Make sure it comes with the bell and weights. Search for ones that are in really good condition by images and msging the user. A new or like-new one with nice smooth surfaces should do the trick. Keep me posted.
BTW I should probably mention you don't need to put the whole case back on and put oil in it to test out the starter. With the cover off you can just tap the starter button to see how it moves. It's okay to have it do a few revolutions without ignition.
...BTW I should probably mention you don't need to put the whole case back on and put oil in it to test out the starter. With the cover off you can just tap the starter button to see how it moves. It's okay to have it do a few revolutions without ignition.
That is good to know, I was actually dreading that part...thanks for the help man, much appreciated! Now I just have to find the extra time in the week to give it a good going over...
chain just happens to come from a CB160 (cam chain)
Now the balance chain is a Kawasaki part Kawasaki 92057-1415 (CHAIN,CAM,BF05-104L)or at last check Tsubaki still makes the BF05 in bulk , you just have to find someone that carries it .
Seems a shame to cut 62 links out of 104 and use the rest for a bracelet ...
The later tensioner for the balancer has a thicker slipper for the starter chain and is a better adjuster for the balance chain . Take a good look while the flywheel is off . I have a fair copy of the parts fiche if needed .
If you find a better way of installing the flywheel/starter clutch/chain gears without dropping the key into the ... than I have please share .
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