Djfob said:
Yep, that's why I used it.
Stripping gas tank to bare metal
- Thread starter Djfob
- Start date
Yep, that's why I used it.
SASO Racing
Been Around the Block
The process to dial in a old gas tank is rather easy. Here are my steps I take.
Get a electric or air sander with some 80 grip paper. Sand the paint and try to scuff as much as possible, you should be hitting metal. But no need to spend more than 20 minutes.
Next step is to spray some good aircraft paint remover all over the gas tank. The spray can is much easier than brushing it on. So go aerosol. A can of name brand is about $8. Wait until the paint is bubbled, then wait another 10 minutes and use a metal scraper to now remove the easy and loose paint.
You wont get it all, that's ok. Be sure to remove all the aircraft stripper gel. Use gas, carb cleaner, or lacquer thinner to clean the gas tank. Next get a drill with a steel or brass wire wheel and remove any excess paint that didn't come off the first time.
At this point your tank should be looking nice and raw. If you are not planning on primer or paint right away you can give the outside a rub down with a oil such as wd40. This s prevents surface rust.
Next take care of the inside. You want the inside nice looking and rust free. Your future inline fuel filters and carbs will appreciate having a clean inside gas tank. Plug the holes and fill the tank up with cheap vinegar which might be around $3 per gallon. Let it sit for a min. of 2 days then pour it out and then rinse with water mixed with baking soda to neutralize the acid. Then empty it any liquid. Within the next few minutes you need to spray the entire inside with a thin oil such as wd 40 or something such as 2 stroke motor oil mixed with gas. Coating the clean insides with oil is very important to stop surface rust internally. If you fail then you will need to do a vinegar soak all over again.
Be sure to check for pinhole leaks during the process above. Weld, braze, solder, or jb weld the leaks. You can also give it to a pressure tester and pay them to fix leaks. A fuel tank liner can be used but avoid it if you can. It can flake off and cause problems down the road. If you can avoid it it will be one less variable to go wrong. I hope this helps, having a clean tank is a luxury on vintage bikes!
Get a electric or air sander with some 80 grip paper. Sand the paint and try to scuff as much as possible, you should be hitting metal. But no need to spend more than 20 minutes.
Next step is to spray some good aircraft paint remover all over the gas tank. The spray can is much easier than brushing it on. So go aerosol. A can of name brand is about $8. Wait until the paint is bubbled, then wait another 10 minutes and use a metal scraper to now remove the easy and loose paint.
You wont get it all, that's ok. Be sure to remove all the aircraft stripper gel. Use gas, carb cleaner, or lacquer thinner to clean the gas tank. Next get a drill with a steel or brass wire wheel and remove any excess paint that didn't come off the first time.
At this point your tank should be looking nice and raw. If you are not planning on primer or paint right away you can give the outside a rub down with a oil such as wd40. This s prevents surface rust.
Next take care of the inside. You want the inside nice looking and rust free. Your future inline fuel filters and carbs will appreciate having a clean inside gas tank. Plug the holes and fill the tank up with cheap vinegar which might be around $3 per gallon. Let it sit for a min. of 2 days then pour it out and then rinse with water mixed with baking soda to neutralize the acid. Then empty it any liquid. Within the next few minutes you need to spray the entire inside with a thin oil such as wd 40 or something such as 2 stroke motor oil mixed with gas. Coating the clean insides with oil is very important to stop surface rust internally. If you fail then you will need to do a vinegar soak all over again.
Be sure to check for pinhole leaks during the process above. Weld, braze, solder, or jb weld the leaks. You can also give it to a pressure tester and pay them to fix leaks. A fuel tank liner can be used but avoid it if you can. It can flake off and cause problems down the road. If you can avoid it it will be one less variable to go wrong. I hope this helps, having a clean tank is a luxury on vintage bikes!
Wd40 is a massive pain in the arse to clean off before paint. If you don't remove all of it you will get fish eyes all through your primer. I recommend using 2t oil or the likes. Just remember to give it a bloody good clean before primer no matter what you use.
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Just did mine with a spray on stripper from Lowes... took about an hour to get clean as the image with light 3M green pad after. Method was to get a large chunk of cardboard and bend up the edges to retain the mess > spray down fairly heavy for the first go and let sit until paint sags > use a metal 1.5 scraper sharpened to "scrape" not chisel, hold the scraper 90 deg and scrape top center to bottom weld seal allowing the paint to slide down as you go > wipe off with rags until all stripper is gone > this round spray the stripper on kind of random and use a rag to spread it all over 1/2 of the tank at a time, just keep using a little at a time spread wait 2 minutes and wipe off with old t shirt rags. I really went fast and took all of the paint off, I will update the brand with pic tonight, but here it is: 8)
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SASO Racing
Been Around the Block
Tune, did you sand or scuff your oem paint before you applied your paint stripper? I found that scuffing it first allows the stripper to penetrate the factory paint as well as factory primer layers. Its especially helpful in areas that are later hard to get at with a wire wheel or a sanding disc such as the crevices and contours on the underbelly of the gas tank.
SASO Racing
Been Around the Block
Brodie said:
Yeah agreed and there is no need to oil the tanks exterior unless you are not painting it for a long time. Even if it does get surface rust on it a scotch pad should take it right off and we won't have to deal with any oil / fisheye your issues when painting. the interior of the gas tank is going to have a warm inviting welcome to an instant oil or gas treatment 360° inside. (Unless you plan on doing a liner though)
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
KICKRacing said:
The paint was open, or really sun broken so no need to scuff, but that is a great idea!! The product is Jasco 15: http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=102&prodid=213 This stuff even broke through the heavy red primer, seems it was at Home Depot, not Lowes.
Before pic:
Attachments
Brodie said:DJ, 3M make "Coating Removal" disks in various grades. I have used these many times, the light grade will remove paint no problem. Just attach it to your grinder and go for it.
Looks like this.
I used something like this mounted in a drill and stripped a CB550 tank. Worked like a charm.
High On Octane
Ton Up or Shut Up
I personally like the 3M Scotch-Brite Roloc discs for stripping paint. They are very aggressive on the paint, but gentle on the metal itself.
beardo_creeps
New Member
Furniture paint stripper from Bunnings, a home depot type shop here in Australia worked a treat for me. Gel formula.
I've now stripped two tanks, both with the same process and it's been relatively easy.
1. Quick hand sand in rough grit, takes 5 minutes just to scuff it.
2. working on the top, then each side, so a 3 stage process, I slathered the stripper on and left it for 10 minutes. Once it was bubbled and goo I scraped it back with a plastic paint scraper. Did top, side 1 and side 2 like this first.
3. It won't have got it all, so I did one more coat of stripper, then repeated the scraping.
4. Whack some 120 grit on an orbital and give it a good going over. (both the tanks I have done this to had surface rust in patches, so the heavier grit was mainly to eat through the shitty finish.
5. 220 grit. Same again.
6. 1200 is quite a jump, but it gives a sweet finish to the 220 prep. hit it with this till it's shiny as anything.
7. Get a beer. Consider whether to leave it uncoated, as I have for one (bar a rub of oil) or to realise that you didn't organise paints/paint shop and weep slightly knowing you'll have to sand it again before having it clear coated.
8. Paint things on them, embrace the differences of bikes.
All in all it's about a two hour job to strip one back I've found, though it's actually rather relaxing and gives you a chance to zone out.
Chris.
I've now stripped two tanks, both with the same process and it's been relatively easy.
1. Quick hand sand in rough grit, takes 5 minutes just to scuff it.
2. working on the top, then each side, so a 3 stage process, I slathered the stripper on and left it for 10 minutes. Once it was bubbled and goo I scraped it back with a plastic paint scraper. Did top, side 1 and side 2 like this first.
3. It won't have got it all, so I did one more coat of stripper, then repeated the scraping.
4. Whack some 120 grit on an orbital and give it a good going over. (both the tanks I have done this to had surface rust in patches, so the heavier grit was mainly to eat through the shitty finish.
5. 220 grit. Same again.
6. 1200 is quite a jump, but it gives a sweet finish to the 220 prep. hit it with this till it's shiny as anything.
7. Get a beer. Consider whether to leave it uncoated, as I have for one (bar a rub of oil) or to realise that you didn't organise paints/paint shop and weep slightly knowing you'll have to sand it again before having it clear coated.
8. Paint things on them, embrace the differences of bikes.
All in all it's about a two hour job to strip one back I've found, though it's actually rather relaxing and gives you a chance to zone out.
Chris.
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Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Nice work. I'm a fan of striping over sanding, less dust!
runmikeyrun
Been Around the Block
I have a question for those who used the Eastwood Diamond coat- did you go with the quart or rattle can? I don't have a gun or a painter so if the rattle can lays on nice with a few coats and is as resistant to gasoline spills as the quart stuff I'll go with it.
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
Eastwood rattle can.
