Stupid CB360! I've got 99 Problems and Bad Weather Ain't One
- Thread starter MiddleClassChops
- Start date
MiddleClassChops
New Member
Well here's my solution for now. Picked up a 76 with no title for $250. Already have the motor pulled. I'll be keeping a lot of the parts like the wheels and front end, brakes and pegs and everything else will be on ebay. The seat, lights, wiring, gauges and ignition are already scheduled to go live on ebay at 10:30. Should make my money back pretty easy I imagine.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Whatever you do DON'T use 'thick' oil.
10w40 is the thickest you should use but I recommend Shell Rotella 5w/40 full synthetic (it's relatively cheap at Mall-Wart )
BTW Rich, CB250/350 seize cam bearings plus destroy rockers same as 360 if you operate at high rpm. The plunger pump moves less oil so doesn't open the relief valve until 10K+
10w40 is the thickest you should use but I recommend Shell Rotella 5w/40 full synthetic (it's relatively cheap at Mall-Wart )
BTW Rich, CB250/350 seize cam bearings plus destroy rockers same as 360 if you operate at high rpm. The plunger pump moves less oil so doesn't open the relief valve until 10K+
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
crazypj said:
My favorite Oil....My 750 Likes it too. Shifts better than dino type oil, and clutch works better. Bestsynthetic in value for the bikes that can use that weight oil.
MiddleClassChops
New Member
Well it's been a while but I got the motor all swapped into my bike. Hooked up and put back together. Started her up and she purrs real nice. I let it warm up for a while before I tested it on the road. As soon as I put it in gear it no longer wanted to idle unless I turned the screw up a bit. It also didn't want to return to idle all the way. I've checked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find any. It has a new set of point in it from the PO but I still need to go through and set them myself to make sure they're actually right. I feel like I'm so close, but it's still in no shape to ride around. I may have to break down at some point here and actually bring it to a local shop. I hate to do it but I feel like I just can't get this thing right. FYI, K&N Filters, Harley Take Off Pipes, Carbs done by CrazyPJ, New Points, Podtronics Reg/Rec, 2.5ah Battery
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
MiddleClassChops said:Well for whatever reason I decided I wanted to take a look at my top end today. I'm guess I'm glad I did. I have pulled out the cam shaft yet but I already know that I'm going to need a new head and rocker cover. Take a look at these pics.
Looks a lot like the left cylinder bath was pretty dry. The second lobe didn't have any oil on it.
I don't know. Part of me feels like the 360 motor is more trouble than it's worth. I saw a couple cool xr600 swaps done but here in idaho, finding a cheap xr500 or xr600 is near impossible.
That's a common problem, even more common when RTV is used. It's evil stuff in 360 motors
MiddleClassChops
New Member
crazypj said:
Yeah, I was lucky enough to find a nice replacement motor. Definitely have plenty of extra parts now including an extra nice head. For $200 for the complete donor bike, I couldn't pass it up. Hopefully this will be the last motor I need to buy for a while.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Try fuel screws at 3/4 turn out, carbs may need sync to your motor.
Have you seen Trek 97's mod to keep carbs level?
Pull clutch cover and do transfer piece mod I invented, with thinner oil it seems to cure all top end problems. Drilling cam may be overkill when that's done?
Have you seen Trek 97's mod to keep carbs level?
Pull clutch cover and do transfer piece mod I invented, with thinner oil it seems to cure all top end problems. Drilling cam may be overkill when that's done?
MiddleClassChops
New Member
crazypj said:
Thanks PJ. Will give it a go. I figure I have another month till I'm in the real nice riding weather out here so hopefully I can get it done. If nothing else, this little bike is sure teaching me a lot!
MiddleClassChops
New Member
Well I'm so close to writing this bike off! I did the ignition and timing tonight. Valves are good, timing is good. Fuel screws 3/4 out, no vacuum leaks that I can find. Other than the same issue I've always had with it not wanting to return to idle (probably because I have a single cable throttle on it), it runs great sitting in my garage. Revs nice, idles nice. As soon as I put it in gear, it will no longer idle and I don't get any response from the throttle. Can't even ride it around the block. I've built 5 other bikes from the 70's and this cb360 takes the cake for being the biggest pain.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Throttle cable isn't too tight? You need at least 1/8" rotation at large diameter of grip.
I haven't had any problems with 360 carbs and I've done a LOT of them
It isn't the single cable causing problem. You have checked fuel filter in tank and the water trap/filter in tap?
Lean mixture can cause same problem
Are you using a timing light to set ignition timing? points need to be as close to 0.014" as you can get them at the max opening point
It also sounds like clutch is dragging, there is a problem with Motion Pro cables, they don't fit properly
I haven't had any problems with 360 carbs and I've done a LOT of them
It isn't the single cable causing problem. You have checked fuel filter in tank and the water trap/filter in tap?
Lean mixture can cause same problem
Are you using a timing light to set ignition timing? points need to be as close to 0.014" as you can get them at the max opening point
It also sounds like clutch is dragging, there is a problem with Motion Pro cables, they don't fit properly
Ive been running a single cable for a couple years now, w no issues. Mine got slow to return to idle. I just aimed the WD-40 in there and flooded the linkage and it was fixed.MiddleClassChops said:
Fresh lube in clutch cable, the throttle cable and carb linkage.
clutch adjustments exactly to the Honda workshop manual?
Did you sync the carbs w proper vac gauges?
DO NOT WALK AWAY.
I am not the type of guy who cusses out loud and throws things, when things go wrong. But now i am an expert at it.
When you begin to get a little frustrated w her, Simply step back, CUSSING OUT LOUD until you begin to laugh at your situation. (sometimes this can take several minutes, before you begin to feel better). Then step back up to her and get back to work.
I can't begin to count how many times I have thrown my helmet into the ditch. And laughed out loud when I see the smile on my old ladies face as she pulls along side of me w the trailer to haul us back home. I carry an extra pack of smokes and a full bottle of water...cause it may take her a while to get there.
Believe me, I know the 360 frustration. Its the only bike I have ever owned. I will never have another bike of any brand, make or model...because of this experience.
But, I do love my little 360. It has been as much fun as it has been frustrating.
I am not the type of guy who cusses out loud and throws things, when things go wrong. But now i am an expert at it.
When you begin to get a little frustrated w her, Simply step back, CUSSING OUT LOUD until you begin to laugh at your situation. (sometimes this can take several minutes, before you begin to feel better). Then step back up to her and get back to work.
I can't begin to count how many times I have thrown my helmet into the ditch. And laughed out loud when I see the smile on my old ladies face as she pulls along side of me w the trailer to haul us back home. I carry an extra pack of smokes and a full bottle of water...cause it may take her a while to get there.
Believe me, I know the 360 frustration. Its the only bike I have ever owned. I will never have another bike of any brand, make or model...because of this experience.
But, I do love my little 360. It has been as much fun as it has been frustrating.
rockcitycafe
I make things.
definitely need to sync carbs with a vacuum gauge, I also find the idle speed is very sensitive to mixture, if you go too lean at idle, coming back down from revving and it'll hang around 3-4k. it's also incredibly sensitive to the battery voltage, if your battery is weak, you're going to have problems.
MiddleClassChops
New Member
Thanks for all the replies. I do have plenty of slack in the throttle cable but I'll go ahead and make sure that the cable and linkage are well lubed today. I haven't adjusted the clutch to the factory manual spec so I'll go ahead and do that today as well.
I adjust my points with a test light like the manual says. I don't have a strobe. I also don't have vacuum gauges to sync the carbs with.
I'll keep plugging away. The mixture screws alway baffle me because I have a hard time seeing any difference when I turn them in or out. Is there a secret to getting them just right?
I adjust my points with a test light like the manual says. I don't have a strobe. I also don't have vacuum gauges to sync the carbs with.
I'll keep plugging away. The mixture screws alway baffle me because I have a hard time seeing any difference when I turn them in or out. Is there a secret to getting them just right?
You won't need to mess w mix screws until the other stuff is done.
And really to adjust mix properly you need a good quality handheld Analog tach (digital tachs are too slow) to watch cam speed during adjustment. But they are crazy expensive.
So, just use the bikes tach as best you can. Once you get her down to the point of fine tuning. Its almost impossible to see a 50 rpm variation though. So just find the increase and decrease and set them in the middle. Seems good enough for people who ARENT crazy.
but if you got $450 bucks burning a hole in your pocket for a tool. Here is a pic of my tach. Its a Deumo 200. Accurate to 0.5% and good for 16 rpm -20,000 rpm.
Amazon has em w free shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/MT-200-Mechanical-Handheld-Tachometer-Measuring/dp/B0052P3J1K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393088209&sr=8-2&keywords=deumo+tach
And really to adjust mix properly you need a good quality handheld Analog tach (digital tachs are too slow) to watch cam speed during adjustment. But they are crazy expensive.
So, just use the bikes tach as best you can. Once you get her down to the point of fine tuning. Its almost impossible to see a 50 rpm variation though. So just find the increase and decrease and set them in the middle. Seems good enough for people who ARENT crazy.
but if you got $450 bucks burning a hole in your pocket for a tool. Here is a pic of my tach. Its a Deumo 200. Accurate to 0.5% and good for 16 rpm -20,000 rpm.
Amazon has em w free shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/MT-200-Mechanical-Handheld-Tachometer-Measuring/dp/B0052P3J1K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393088209&sr=8-2&keywords=deumo+tach
abacb_07
New Member
I had a very similar problem on my CL350, timing was good, and I though I had all my ducks in a row.
I first considered a vacuum leak, as this has very similar symptoms. It would idle fine at start, but once you revved it once it was done, and the RPMs would never drop till the bike cooled.
I would assume that with the mods to the exhaust and intake that you jetted properly?
What mine ended up being was two different items. My jets were undersized, causing a lean condition and excessive heat in the head.
The other half of the issue I found was the petcock was plugged and not providing enough fuel to one carb, so I was ultimately running on one cylinder. I found it would run alright in RES, just my main ON was plugged somewhere. I cleaned it out and replaced the gasket in it and my problems went away.
For some reason these engine need that fuel to run...
I first considered a vacuum leak, as this has very similar symptoms. It would idle fine at start, but once you revved it once it was done, and the RPMs would never drop till the bike cooled.
I would assume that with the mods to the exhaust and intake that you jetted properly?
What mine ended up being was two different items. My jets were undersized, causing a lean condition and excessive heat in the head.
The other half of the issue I found was the petcock was plugged and not providing enough fuel to one carb, so I was ultimately running on one cylinder. I found it would run alright in RES, just my main ON was plugged somewhere. I cleaned it out and replaced the gasket in it and my problems went away.
For some reason these engine need that fuel to run...
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
trek97 said:
I did see a set of correct adapters but you had to buy the full vacuum gauge set up as they were not available as a spare part (owner said they were not cheap)
Most bikes use 5mm but some use 6x1, 360 is 6mm special :
As for fuel screws, they may need anywhere between 3/4 to 1-1/2 turns out, start at 3/4, back out 1/8 turn at a time and test ride, (out is richer)
You need a tach capable of showing 50rpm drop to use 'idle drop method' of setting fuel screws.
