Weren't you told to stay off the internet? Stop messing around and get back to work
It gets even worse. I could have been a scribe or a monk. In my opinion If you want to learn how to do something there is no excuse not to do it especially with the internet and DTT. If I was a scribe or monk there would have been a modification to the manuscript and we wouldn’t have billions of dollars being spent on buildings on Sunday mornings. It would be spent on helping poor old slow motorcycles go faster and not be all alone. Especially two strokes.
In the case of building a remote hand held starter for a drag bike. Terminology. What we are looking for in a starter is an OSGR starter. Offset Gear Reduction Starter. Now with that little piece of information you can find any manufactures model you want. What do we want in an OSGR starter? Japanese is what we want not Chinese: Now that presents a problem. Oreilly, Autozone, Amazon, EBay. Et al all have Toyota and Honda OSGR starters but are they made in Japan. No! Then there is Summit Racing the big box store of racing. Now Summit wants charge you almost double for a the same Chinese OSGR starter you can buy off Amazon.
Now amazon has that little extended warranty you can get for 17 bucks. More on that later.
Now what we need is power, KW for you civilized folks or HP horse power for the Cowboys! Doesn’t matter if you are Australian or Texan we want the ponies in our bikes and our starters. The higher the compression the more ponies you need and with an OSGR starter we are going to get increased Torque from our ponies and everybody know it is Horsepower for show and Torque for go. Now let’s make this more interesting. What if the wife is going to use the remote starter to help you ? What starter do we need to build?
Now I have been scribing through mounds of internet trash so that you don’t have to and have found some joules. If you ever want to learn how to build a flat track racing fire breathing brake your leg if you try and kick it monster. Then read this document.
https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1zT6D9U_iQoC5PElv8fOLHjHEG-P9fsJptecKjnweJFc/mobilebasic
Down in the bowels of that document is this.
“Handheld Remote Starter
Nothing makes you feel more alive than when a big bore single kicks back and breaks your foot. You’ll only try to kick start a thumper wearing flip-flops one time and you’ll learn this lesson.
You can build a handheld starter for about $150 from a junkyard Toyota truck starter. The biggest single cost will be the battery at almost $80 from Walmart. Use NAPA starter PN 244-6106 for $84 with a $30 core OR an O'Reilly – PN 16901 for $69 with a $20 core. You can use a starter that fits a 1984-5 1.8L Accord and 1986-9 2.0L Accord or a junkyard gear reduction Nippondenso starter from an early 90's Toyota PU. All spin counterclockwise just like the TT/XT500 engine. I had to massage the start relay to prevent the bendix drive from extending. (I cut the drive pin shorter so the electrical contacts are made but the drive shaft is not driven forward.) The advantage of a gear reduction motor is they require less starting amperage meaning a smaller battery and are lighter in weight. A $10 NAPA push button activates it. Always disable the Bendix so it won’t kick outwards.
Use a motorcycle battery Odyssey PC68 (Dimensions in inches) 7.15L x 3.00W x 6.65H) In metric: 181.5 x 76.3 x 167.8 mm @ $117. Use Odyssey’s Stud Adapter 0220-0888 @ $11. Or go to Batteries Plus for a gel cell. Ask your local golf course cart barn for a couple of used shorty battery cables or cut the ends off some cheapo battery cables. Use 4 ga. or 6 ga. wire for everything else. The more juice that starter gets, the more power it has but 10 ga.or 12 ga. won't let it roll the engine over. Get a powerful battery and not the heaviest one they sell like I did once.
To remove Honda starter gear:
Remove the bolts out of the rear of the starter
Remove the gear housing cover
Then remove the drive gear
Here's a picture:
Remove the solenoid lever. You don’t want the armature jumping out to engage anything.
One thing that needs to be mentioned here - The crank nut comes off in the same direction that you need to spin the motor on a XT/TT500 (counterclockwise). To take care of this, it is necessary to impact the nut on using Green SLEEVE LOCKER Loctite. Clean the crank and nut threads with acetone and a brush first. Make sure it is tight with an air impact wrench turned down to less than 90psi. When you need to remove the nut it may be necessary to heat the nut first and remove while it is still warm.
TIP: Paint LH thread nuts bright red to remind you that they are LH thread.
Or use a Sharpie to write it on your flywheel.”
Now you will notice that the XT/TT500 share the same problem that the Bultaco’s have on the flywheel nut! How did these old crafty flattrackers handle that? Green loctite and an impact! They also know if you lose your nut your flywheel will stay on because it is the taper that is holding the flywheel on not the nut. But your competitors may not appreciate you dropping a nut. No if you start googling those part numbers you will find Honda and Toyota OSGR starters. The Honda is 1.4 kw and is a clockwise rotation.
https://www.obbstartersandalternato...MI29_xuo-D6QIVENvACh3RrAteEAQYAiABEgK3vfD_BwE
Now 1.4 kw is is 1.877 British Horse Powers. But can we find the ELon Musk offset gear reduction starter? Yes we can and yes we will get to the Paris Hilton tuning but wait there is more!
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