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Hey guys, I just wanted to say hello and start my build thread. I recently picked up a less than glamorous Honda cb360 twin. It doesn't run and I don't have a title for it. 13K miles. It has good compression, but its going to need a lot of work. I have been wanting a little honda for a while to make into a cafe racer. I want to have a two person thin seat, kick-start only, and bare-boned. It looks almost rust free inside the gas tank, but everything else is pretty rough. I am probably going to get a bunch of new parts, but thats fine with me. Firstly I need to get it running. Here are a few pictures of her. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Great idea to get it started first and figure out what needs to be replaced/fixed. Lots of 360 builds on here, so I'm sure you can get alot of inspiration by searching a little. Make sure to keep us updated
I contest with the others though, get it running first. things i would do first clean the carbs, change oil, check plugs, check for air filters, and check electrical for corrosion.
Well I now know that it runs. I don't have any new pictures of my progress, but I have been working on it for a couple months. All torn apart, chopped frame, pulled motor, started painting parts. It is in a thousand pieces but I am starting to make progress.
There is one thing that is holding me back though. When I bought the bike, one of the exhaust studs had been broken off. Is there an easy way to fix this problem?
I will get some pictures up soon. I had to move my workspace into the basement because its getting too damn cold outside already. Man do I hate Iowa winters!
Alright, well since there is nothing protruding we will skip those steps. Often times what happens here is that since the bolt is steel and the head is aluminum a 'bi-metal' bond develops between stud and cylinder head. This is caused by all the heat cycles the peices go through.
Some good penetrating oil and a torch may help to break this bond. Apply the penetrating oil, let it dry and heat the area with the torch. Not some crazy welding torch, just a little propane or MAPP gas one. This process did not free the broken bolt from my head and there was something protruding for me to get a grip on. I had to move on to the next procedure.
No matter if the oil and heating do any good you are going to need a broken stud extractor kit. This will come with several drill bits to drill a pilot hole and extractor bits. You will insert the extractor into the pilot hole and back the stud out of its hole. If this doesn't work we move on to drilling it out.
You can skip the previous steps and go right to this but I like to try the simpler things first. To drill it out you will need quality drill bits, a good drill (not cordless), a Helicoil kit or tap kit. The Helicoil kit actually has some pretty good directions but here is the basic gyst of it. You will start with a bit a little smaller than the actual stud and drill completely through the stud. You will continue this using progressively larger bits until all of the stud is gone. If you are using a Helicoil it should tell you how big of a bit you have to work your way up to.
You may have to hog the bit around a little to get rid of all the stud material. Just take your time and be careful, you don't want to remove any more cylinder head material than you absolutely have to. You should be able to tell the difference between stud and head materieal because the aluminum head will a be a duller colored, softer material. The steel stud will be shinier and harder. You should be able to feel the difference through the drill bit.
These are basic instructions, you can probably find something more elaborate and with some pictures online somewhere. It's a frustrating problem but can be overcome. Good luck.
Thanks for all of the information. I think I will try the first idea first and see where I end up. Do you what the easiest way to get rid of the dent in my gas tank? It is very clean inside, that is why I want to keep it and use it.
Maybe try heating the dent and rubbing ice on it (butane or propane....and a big chunk of ice). Hard to tell from the pic how deep the dent is and if that method would work, but you can do it at home easy enough.
BTW - is the tank totally free of gas / fumes? You can run a pipe off a car exhaust into the tank for about 15 minutes and it will clear all the vapors.
As for the exhaust stud, do you have a welder? MIG? I'd try and weld a nut onto it and turn it out (the heat from the weld will help it loosen). You might damage the first couple of threads in the hole welding the nut on, but there will be enough left to attach a new stud.
Yeah, forgot to mention that. If you have a welder and know what you are doing you could probably weld a bolt onto it and back it out. Me not having a welder or access to one I didn't think about that.
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