Time for Timing, having a hell of a time too...

cleoncleon

cleoncleon

Been Around the Block
Well, the build ran today, on one cylinder. so amped! 8)
BUT! I have a few small problems...


1. When I was timing, i believe i was doing it correct... but, the Left Point (Yellow cabled one.) seems to keep it's light on when I turn the engine over.
No matter how many times i kick, the light just stays on, doesn't flicker like i think it should, just as the right side is flickering/firing properly doing.


2. So, It's the left cylinder/plug that isn't firing, which is the Left Side point, with a Yellow Wire, I believe. The Coil isn't HOT in temperature like the 'working' coil of the right cylinder.
I hastily ordered another XS650 Coil, but, I'm expecting the worst, as I am quite pessimistic...


- Could the condenser be a problem? ( 1 condenser right? its a CL360)

- Could the order in which I wired the condenser have hand in this? I used the diagram below...
- What can attribute to the light of the right coil staying on? It seems to be closing and opening, it should still at least flicker despite its timing, right?
- I have used a tester light and poked around at all the connection up there, there IS power getting to the coil.
- I have tested BOTH spark plugs on the working coil, nice big blue spark from both.


XS650IgnitiononCB360-1.jpg
 
The light is on when the points are open, so it must mean that for some reason, the points are not 'closing". try cleaning the points surfaces again and see if that fixes it.
 
Quite true, and yeah... didn't think of that, I'll give that a try in conjunction with that new coil and we'll see.
 
Stick a piece of paper under the point gap and let it close on it. The Now spin the motor over until you get to the spot that the points close and lightly pull on the paper. It should NOT just come right out, but rather give you a snug holding feeling as you pull the paper out. IF it pops right out then your gap is too wide and needs to be reset, the gap needs to be in the .3-.4mm range. If it does hold the paper, once you get it out look at the paper; it should really NOT have much crap on it or else the points will do good to get a cleaning. USE A POINT FILE, not any emory or sand paper.
 
Frog,
Something got lost in translation there. I just measured a sheet of paper at .003" 3 thou and points are typically 12-16 thou, so that's not right.

The paper trick was a quick way to check timing. In the UK we used fag papers ie cigarette papers like Rizla which if memory serves me were around .0015 (1.5 thou). The trick was to insert a small strip of Rizla or similar thin paper between the points and rotate the motor forward slowly while pulling gently on the paper. As the points just start to open, the paper can be pulled out.

It's not exactly digital technology but worked great as a get home trick when a magneto gear had slipped or to get it close enough to start it after a rebuild.

IIRC, the side a ciggie packet was right for gapping points and thumbnail for gapping plugs. Again, not 100% accurate but close enough to get a bike running.
 
Teaser, I was just just suggesting a way to check to see if the points were in fact closing at all, not as a measure of gap. If the paper is held by the points then a guess can be made that they are closing. If you used card stock say from a business card that is much thicker then the chances are the point may still be open.

Funny thing, have a business card and my calipers here ATM, and it measures at .3mm or 12 thous. :eek:

Dj is the 360 version ready yet? He hasn't listed them.
 
A ha. Isee that, now I read it again carefully. Good trick. I like that. And the business card points gap tool is good too.
 
Problem Solved! Left cylinder lives! 8)
Thanks Fellas, in the end it was carbon build up.
Luckily I found an extra points assembly, so I just threw it on, saved the other.


Guess I can sell this coil...
 
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