Trying to decide between "real" automotive paint and a rattle can job

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polar8

New Member
What I need to paint is a tank / seat cowl combo (as well as an engine and some spare parts).

I'm having a hell of a time deciding between using real automotive paint in a spray gun or a rattle can job with a 2k aerosol clear like Spraymax. I have a decent compressor so my only expense would be the spray gun if I were to go that route.

I'd like to do a 2-tone paint job, so that means at least two quarts of base coat (or can I buy less than a quart?).

I don't mind spending a little more for a better finish, I'm just worried that I'll be paying extra for paint I don't need. Whereas with rattle cans, you buy an extra one for $6 instead of a whole quart.

If it was your money, what would you do?
 
honestly, if you're looking for that proper finish, you're either going to spend the money on proper automotive paint and a spray gun, or you'll spend your time meticulously wet sanding over and over and over with a spray job, and even then, you'll likely have spots of checking, orange peel, etc. if you take into account that your time is worth something, the cost might end up being similar.
 
I say if you have the space and equipment go for the real paint. You'll just kick yourself in the ass later if you go with the rattle can and in a couple months have to redo it. I know there are guys that have great results with rattle can paint jobs but if you can do it with regular automotive paint I would go that way. I did the rattle can paint on my frame and tank and accidentally got some zep purple degreaser on it and the paint started bubbling and came right off. The only area's that it didn't effect were places that I painted with some automotive stuff I had left over from another project.

Hope this helps.

-Jon
 
yeah to expand on that, gas spillage will be a non-issue with automotive paint, but may be an issue with rattle cans.
 
Yeah, the gas spillage thing and durability in general has me leaning towards automotive.

Are there any smaller hvlp guns that can run well on a 2hp, 8gal compressor?
 
+1 on the auto paint
Rattle can jobs can get pricey when you account for paint,sandpaper,clear,polish&wax. You also have to account for mishaps that can happen. I also ended up pretty sick from the fumes.
Given the time and cost from now on I am going to spend a little dough and get a real painter to do it. That way he is responcible if it gets mucked up.

Good luck bro
 
Guess it depends on how nice you consider your bike? Is it your baby? Rattle can 2K clear will protect from gas just fine. If price is an issue, "real" auto paint ain't cheap. My two-tone scheme: $300+ just for primer/paint/clear. A gun will be extra, and some colors are MUCH more expensive than others. Luckily, the colors I chose weren't expensive.
 
No brainer - go with "real" paint.
Apart from anything else you can really load up the surface with a good thickness of paint [ especially at the primer filler stage ] compared to rattle cans - that leads to a better and longer lasting job. Modern aerosols especially lack the "punch" to produce a decent spray pattern and volume per pass.

I've seen some excellent results from a rattle can - but that's only when there was no choice.

Even investing in a cheapo spray gun will give you good results and repay you spray after spray.

There's something very satisfying about producing a good paint job.
 
I did the rattle can deal year ago and any time I got a little gas on it or just the fumes from filling it up too high and venting out the top would cause it to peel. I tried every form of rattle clear and it just doesn't compare to doing it with an automotive paint. I used a two part clear coat that worked great and I don't remember it being too expensive.
 
My vote is for auto paint. If you are going through all the prep work, you might as well make it worth while. The gun may be expensive but if you work on/build bikes often you will be glad you went with automotive. The best rattle can job still looks like a rattle can job.
 
There is more to consider than just an air compressor and gun. I speak from experience. If you shoot with a spray gun you can honestly get away with a Harbor Freight HVLP Gun with no problem. However, things you will need to install on your air compressor is a water/oil seperated and air dryer filter. In addition, you will need a PSI regulator so your gun in not blasted with 120 PSI.

Other supplies need include paint strainers, painters mixing cups showing 2:1, 3:1, 4:1 ratios.

Now when it comes to the paint. Automotive paint can definitely be very expensive at times. House of Kolor is probably the most expensive. The paint is not too much but it's the Catalyst or Hardener that you also need that makes it cost so much more. Eventually after purchasing all your colors and hardeners you are probably going to be looking around $250-$300. Obv this depends on manufacture. Alot of people swear on PPG for the best valve and quality.

Now here is an option you can definitely take. Laquers aka as Rattlecan paint can still produce great finishes. They are easier to paint with but don't have quite the UV protection or durable clears. You can still paint with laquers but you are probably going to want to lay down a urethane clear coat on top. The urethane or polyurethane clear will give you that strong durability and the chemical resistances your are looking for. That's the best way to keep things on the cheap without sacrificing too much quality. Wet sand with 1000 grit before laying down the urethane clear.

P.S. Sorry for the long rant.
 
SrgtBear said:
There is more to consider than just an air compressor and gun. I speak from experience. If you shoot with a spray gun you can honestly get away with a Harbor Freight HVLP Gun with no problem. However, things you will need to install on your air compressor is a water/oil seperated and air dryer filter. In addition, you will need a PSI regulator so your gun in not blasted with 120 PSI.

Other supplies need include paint strainers, painters mixing cups showing 2:1, 3:1, 4:1 ratios.

Now when it comes to the paint. Automotive paint can definitely be very expensive at times. House of Kolor is probably the most expensive. The paint is not too much but it's the Catalyst or Hardener that you also need that makes it cost so much more. Eventually after purchasing all your colors and hardeners you are probably going to be looking around $250-$300. Obv this depends on manufacture. Alot of people swear on PPG for the best valve and quality.

Now here is an option you can definitely take. Laquers aka as Rattlecan paint can still produce great finishes. They are easier to paint with but don't have quite the UV protection or durable clears. You can still paint with laquers but you are probably going to want to lay down a urethane clear coat on top. The urethane or polyurethane clear will give you that strong durability and the chemical resistances your are looking for. That's the best way to keep things on the cheap without sacrificing too much quality. Wet sand with 1000 grit before laying down the urethane clear.

P.S. Sorry for the long rant.
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Wow, I definitely wasn't expecting a $250 quote for a single motorcycle's paint. I'm no cheapskate, but I paid for $300 for the bike so it just seems silly. Plus, it's my first project, and although I'm definitely trying as hard as I can to make it great, I'm not expecting a show bike from my first effort, so it doesnt seem right to buy showbike-level ingredients.


That said, I don't want to spray it with walmart rattle cans either. I was hoping there would be a middle ground, and it seems like some high quality lacquer rattle paint with a Spraymax 2k clear on top would produce decent results that are also reasonably durable. Do you agree with that statement? The colors I'm using are silver and black, so I don't need colors that looks really bright and vibrant.


As far as I know, Spraymax is the only 2k clear in a can, so that takes care of that step. I'm also really interested to hear which brand you recommend for the primer and base coat.
 
I never used the SprayMax 2k but technically it is Urethane and should do the trick. It looks like other people speak highly of it too. Sounds like a good play to start.
 
SrgtBear said:
I never used the SprayMax 2k but technically it is Urethane and should do the trick. It looks like other people speak highly of it too. Sounds like a good play to start.
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Do you have a recommendation for a brand for the primer and basecoat?
 
I've used the Duplicolor stuff and Rust-Oleum primer. I like the Rust-Oleum better. "Rust-Oleum Flat Gray Auto Primer Spray." They sell the stuff at HomeDepot. As far as your basecoat Duplicolor stuff should work fine. You might also want to check out Rattlebomb. Some pretty neat stuff. Alot of chat about it on this site but I haven't seen too many people use it: http://www.rothmetalflake.com/flakes.html
 
The trick to getting a good paint job is to wet sand your primer with 400 grit. Lay down basecoat, 1st coat should be a light dusting so you can have a tacky surface. 2nd coat can either be a light full coat or medium coat, 3rd coat full medium. Allow flash time in between. Depending on the directions of the stuff you are using in most cases you should wait 30mins to 1hr before you can handle it. Then wetsand your basecoat with 1000 grit. And finally lay down clearcoat in the same matter above but your 3rd and 4th coat should be a "wet full coat". The clear will bring out the final shine.

Wetsanding 1500-2000 and buffing after the clearcoat has dryed may be needed for a glossier shine.

I should probably add if you are going to use the urethane on top of your laquer basecoat I would probably give your basecoat up to 24 hours to cure before you lay down the clear.
 
SrgtBear said:
I've used the Duplicolor stuff and Rust-Oleum primer. I like the Rust-Oleum better. "Rust-Oleum Flat Gray Auto Primer Spray." They sell the stuff at HomeDepot. As far as your basecoat Duplicolor stuff should work fine. You might also want to check out Rattlebomb. Some pretty neat stuff. Alot of chat about it on this site but I haven't seen too many people use it: http://www.rothmetalflake.com/flakes.html
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Wow, thanks for all your help. It has really cleared things up. One last question if you don't mind- how many cans of each product (primer, base, clear) will I need to do a tank, seat, and front fender?
 
Take a little time and get "real" auto paint! It isn't really that difficult to apply and once you do it a few times you can expect great results. I painted a bus 3 summers ago by taping off a warehouse, flooding the floor with water (to keep dust down) and renting an air compressor from Home Depot. Used a Harbor Freight air gun, and inline air dryers and it turned out great! 3 coats paint, and 2 clearcoat so I have plenty of practice now.


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polar8 said:
Also, would you choose Duplicolor's enamel or lacquer base coat?
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Yes, keep in mind though that duplicolor enamel will not mesh well with lacquer. Duplicolor Enamels are tough but dull finishes. The black looks almost faded. Stick with Lacquer for the paint job on the tank, seat, and such.
 
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