Valve/Cam chain adjustment (Carb reinstall/Ignition/timing questions)

alexmac

Been Around the Block
I spent the day doing the valve adjustments on my CL350 yesterday. It was easier than I thought
and harder than I thought at the same time.

I had the hardest time doing up the locknut for the adjustment without overtightening the valve clearance.
I would have the feeler gauge in there with the perfect amount of drag and once I started to tighten the
nut the clearance would chomp down on the feeler gauge.

Just how tight do those locknuts need to be?

I ended up making them not so tight because I was messing
up the clearance. Even still it took me HOURS to get it right.

When I was out there today I also did the cam chain tension adjustment. I snugged it up pretty tight. I hope
I didn't overtighten it.
 
Re: Valve/Cam chain adjustment

you're probably looking to get about 10ft/lbs on them, they should be nice and tight, if one loosens, it will back out completely because of the repetitive loading, and the screw will find it's way into one of your springs, guaranteed. and then when the valve can't open, bang, you're done...
 
Re: Valve/Cam chain adjustment

rockcitycafe said:
you're probably looking to get about 10ft/lbs on them, they should be nice and tight, if one loosens, it will back out completely because of the repetitive loading, and the screw will find it's way into one of your springs, guaranteed. and then when the valve can't open, bang, you're done...

Is there any secret to doing this? I have tried holding the screwdriver in the slot while tightening with the wrench. I couldn't feel any turning on the screw but with the feeler gauge still in place, it would tighten until I couldn't pull it out without loosening the locknut and turning the screw again.
 
Re: Valve/Cam chain adjustment

You have to hold against the spin with the screw driver. I actually spin the screw a hair loose once I set it, then spin the nut tight down with my finger and then tighten the nut with the wrench while holding the screw. Then I check it with the NEXT FULL gauge up. If it goes through its too loose. Intakes on my 360 are .002 and I check it with .003 for instance.

Normally I can get it right the first/second time. Practice will make it easier.
 
Valve/Cam chain adjustment

Ok I will give that a shot.

Regarding the cam tension adjustment,
I think I made a big mistake. I saw a video by some yahoo on YouTube on how do it.., so that's what I did. It seemed like I might have over tightened the nut. I did some reading on other forums and discovered that I did it WRONG!
Nowhere in the video was there any mention of where the piston was or TDC or valve position... he just loosened he locknut ...tightened it and retightened the locknut. ...so I did what he did.
I will fix it tomorrow but.. should I loosen the nut with the tension and then retighten it? The lack of detail in the manual is maddening. How tight does "tighten" mean?


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?f2ipye
 
Re: Valve/Cam chain adjustment

If it's the official Honda manual then the torque standards should be toward the back in one of the appendices.
Somewhere around 8 ft/lbs should be fine though.
 
Valve/Cam chain adjustment

Yeah. I checked that. It only gives torque details for structural parts...axles, the steering stem,ect. Thanks that's what I wanted to know.


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?m43zcr
 
Re: Valve/Cam chain adjustment

I think the honda service manual should say where the cam should be to tighten the tensioner, iirc it was 90 degrees past tdc of #2? if you take the rocker box cover off, you could see the cam and make a mental note of where it has to be so that there's no tension on the back part of the chain.
 
Re: Valve/Cam chain adjustment

rockcitycafe said:
I think the honda service manual should say where the cam should be to tighten the tensioner, iirc it was 90 degrees past tdc of #2? if you take the rocker box cover off, you could see the cam and make a mental note of where it has to be so that there's no tension on the back part of the chain.

Taking off the rocker box is way beyond my comfort level. I feel like I am over my head as it is.

I rechecked the valves again and did the cam tension adjustment as per manual with it 90 degrees past tdc... when the valves were loose. As the manual says.

I started to look at the points gap today. The left one wasn't gapped properly.... so I adjusted it with the feeler gauges.

I reinstalled the battery and was about to check the timing but I think I will save that tomorrow.


I will reinstall the rebuilt carbs tomorrow. I am wondering if I should install the PAMCO electronic ignition that I have while I have the tank off for attaching the throttle cables?

It seems that would just be throwing in another variable into the mix because I don't know if the bike will even idle properly.

What do you guys think?
 
Sounds like you have the valve clearances and cam chain tension well in hand. The valve clearance adjustment can be a bit frustrating and will take a bit of time the first few times you do it. As you get more used to it, it will become a bit easier and take less time. After I have them adjusted I always like to spin the engine a few times and recheck just to make sure.

Since you re-gapped the left point, be sure to check both the left and right timing again to ensure both sides are still correct.

I would wait to install the Pamco. Like you said, its just adding another variable into the mix. I like to just make one change at a time if possible.

Sounds like your going about things correctly, and once you get the Pamco in will have a smooth running bike. Let us know how things go.
 
rechecked the points gap today and double checked that they both the same.

I did the static timing today. I had a hell of a time figuring out why I had no current at the points with the ignition on. I had accidentally flipped the killswitch pushing the bike to my work area. ::)

I got it timed perfectly now. But wow it was really off... no wonder it didn't run well.

Carb install is next! I can see the light at the end of the tunnel 8)
 
Back
Top Bottom