Valve Clearance Help

WJPez

Been Around the Block
Help! I have adjusted my valve clearance to .002". I also replaced the rear sprocket from 38 teeth to 35 teeth. I took the bike for a run and all seemed well for the first 15km. The bike then lost power like it had run out of fuel but picked up again after about 5 seconds. It did not sound right after that and did not have the same power. I made it home but the bike sounded like it was rattling from the rockers. I let the bike cool down and checked the clearance again, there appeared to be no clearance! I reset the gap to .002" again and turned the bike over 360' before rechecking where the gap had increased to a massive .058"!!! I reset the gap again and turned the engine over 720' and rechecked the gap, all was ok. The bike started and appeared to run ok but I did not take it for a ride. What have I done wrong?

Thanks

Wayne
 
First, to check the gap, the bike has to be completely cold -- as in left overnight, not just until it doesn't feel hot. Did you do that? Second, sounds like you didn't tighten the nut that locks the adjustment screw into place.
 
carnivorous chicken said:
First, to check the gap, the bike has to be completely cold -- as in left overnight, not just until it doesn't feel hot. Did you do that? Second, sounds like you didn't tighten the nut that locks the adjustment screw into place.

I left the bike overnight to get cold before adjustment. When I rechecked the gap yesterday the locki nuts were both tight.

Wayne
 
WJPez said:
I reset the gap to .002" again and turned the bike over 360' before rechecking where the gap had increased to a massive .058"!!! I reset the gap again and turned the engine over 720' and rechecked the gap, all was ok. The bike started and appeared to run ok but I did not take it for a ride. What have I done wrong?
Hi Wayne,
Nothing that can't be fixed!
I'd just start from the start again and I'm pretty sure everything will work okay.
Like the guys above said, engine needs to be stone cold. And make sure you've got the right TDC. And make sure the adjusters nuts are cinched up nice and tight. Check gap again after you have tightened adjusters.

One place you went wrong was turning 360º and checking gap again. (Of course this may have accidentally put you back on the right track). The CG engine is a bit tricky as it has no overlap in the valve timing; exhaust shuts at TDC and inlets opens also at TDC. As such you can be at TDC with both valves shut(ish), but be 360º away from TDC on the compression stroke (which is where you check valve clearance). Remember, camshaft turns at half the speed of the crankshaft, so it takes two revolutions of the crank, 720º, to complete one valve cycle.
When you got the .058" reading I suspect you were at TDC on the compression stroke, after having wrongly set the valve clearance 360º previous .There may be enough ramp on that little lobe that you're .050" odd off the base circle at TDC for both inlet and exhaust.

To make doubly sure you've got TDC on the compression stroke, go through a couple of cycles. take out the spark plug and put something like a screwdriver in the cylinder. Maybe put some tape on it so you don't scratch anything inside. Turning the engine slooowly (making sure the screwdriver doesn't bind) watch the screwdriver go down and get pushed back out of the hole. When it stops going any higher but hasn't yet gone down - that's TDC. But which one? Watch the valves, and keep turning. (I like to turn the engine by putting the bike in top gear with the back wheel off the ground, and turn the back wheel in the direction as if you're going down the road). You want the one where the inlet valve is shutting as the piston starts making its way from BDC to TDC. This is the TDC where you do your measuring.
Keep going past TDC and both valves will be shut for ages, until the exhaust valve starts to open close to the bottom of the stroke. The next time the screwdriver is coming up, the exhaust valve is closing and at TDC it is shut. Immediately after this the inlet valve starts to open. Even though both valves are shut, this is not the TDC to be checking the valves at!
Hope I'm not teaching Grandma how to suck eggs, and good luck with it.
Stan
 
stan0matic said:
Hope I'm not teaching Grandma how to suck eggs, and good luck with it.
Stan
Thanks Stan,

I will take any advice that gets me back on track. I did reset everything yesterday afternoon and the bike started ok, but I did not go for a ride as I wanted to get advice from the guys on here.

What confused me was that for the first 15km everything was fine and then the problem occurred.

Wayne
 
It sounds like what the other guys mentioned. You probably lightly seated the nut and it rattled itself loose after riding for awhile.


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SrgtBear said:
It sounds like what the other guys mentioned. You probably lightly seated the nut and it rattled itself loose after riding for awhile.

The nuts were tight when I rechecked them. I gave the bike a short ride last night and it appeared to be ok although it may have been slightly down on power.

Wayne
 
Just used this guide to do the first check on my own Ace and it was a massive help, especially after not doing it right the first time either.

So it's a thanks Stan from myself for a clear and concise explanation of how it's done - much appreciated.

Adam
 
I checked mine yesterday, intake was <0.04mm, out was 0.1m. Back to 0.05.

When she's hot, should you have any rocker/tappet noise at all? Cold no noise at all, hot its oticeable but the clearances are fine (when its overnight cold again). I should stop worrying shouldn't I?
 
stan0matic said:
Fear not. This engine design is notorious for tappet noise.

Hi stan0matic, I adjusted the tappets as per your instruction and gave the bike a run, all seems ok. There is a tappet noise that was not there from new but as there was no gap when I originally checked then that is not a problem.

Wayne
 
ChrisBNE said:
Perfect - that's good to know, I will now take the rattle to mean that shit be working.

First time I tackled mine, after a couple of miles, all I could hear were the tappets - really loudly - and there was a lack of power.

Second time round the tappet noise was noticeable when hot, but not hugely loud and she performed properly.
 
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