Voltage drops to zero....calling wiring gurus.

gijoe13844

gijoe13844

Coast to Coast
On one of my 79 xs11s I am having an issue I can't seem to figure out. With main key switch in off position I am getting 11.5 volts at the hot wire inside switch. Once I switch the key to the on position, instead of all wires going hot, the hot wire drops to zero. I replaced switch with one I know is good and no change. I'm thinking reg/rec??? All fuses are good.

Thoughts?
 
So with a good battery you're losing a volt or so by the time it gets to the ignition?
 
Sure sounds like a weak / bad battery. You need over 12 to start with. Being weak You would expect it to only drop a couple volts but I had one in my GL act the same way. Went from just under 12 to zero simply by turning on the key... and it was only 2 years old.
Also have seen bad battery cables do this, pass voltage until some amp flow is called for, then seem to open up internally.
 
I know it's not the battery bc I can run my other xs off the battery and switch I am using. I think it may be a short or corrosion somewhere. I hate electronics so much.
 
Reg/rec does nothing unless the bike is running.

My gut says ignition switch, but if it's working on the other bike, then that's not it.

11.5V is very low, though. You sure the battery is good?
 
Sonreir said:
Reg/rec does nothing unless the bike is running.

My gut says ignition switch, but if it's working on the other bike, then that's not it.

11.5V is very low, though. You sure the battery is good?
Click to expand...

The battery may not be perfect but the fact that it will start my other identical bike tells me it's not the main issue. I am sure it's not the switch bc it is swapped off my other bike. I think im going to check grounds and replace the fuse box tonight. Also will check resistances. I hate electrical shit...hate hate hate
 
Re: Voltage drops to zero...progress made but weird shit developed

Ok stay with me as it gets good....started the night with a fully charged battery pulling 12.71 volts. Replaced fuse box with inline fuse holders.

Voltage at:

main frame ground: 12.71
solenoid input:12.71
Main switch hot wire OFF position: 12.71
Main fuse before switch:12.71


Then I switched the key ON and here are the results.

Voltage at:

All above: 12.71
Two wires coming from key: 12.71 and 11.85 (seems low)


Here is the crazy part. My neutral light comes on now (didn't before, thus improvement) but my oil/brake light doesn't and neither does the rear brake running light. but When I push the brake pedal or lever the rear brake light comes on. Then to get even weirder....I pulled the bulb to check the running light and all of a sudden my brake/oil light comes on on the dash. Plug the bulb (perfectly fine) back in and the dash light goes back out. :/

Ok I moved on from that and went to the starter button....thought what the hell and pushed it....nothing. So then I jumped the solenoid and the starter motor kicked on.


Am I just dealing with bad corrosion that's going to have to be cleaned piece by piece or does someone have some ideas?

I should make it known that I pulled the fairing off to get to the wiring...is that lack of accessories and light connection going to make my system all weird. Please don't say putting that back on will fix it all bc I only took it off after I had these issues to begin with. :)
 
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