What happened to my paint?

mathil said:
It's odd that the paint laid down fine most places, then lifted in certain areas. It would lead me to be absolutely sure you have everything perfectly, perfectly clean. Once it's perfectly clean remember that wax and grease has too offgas for 20-30 minutes before it's actually all gone. If there's any unprimed filler it can stick in there even longer before it all disappears. You can try to gently use a hair dryer or something to get it to evaporate completely a little faster.

Bad paint does happen, but extremely, extremely rarely. Like really, really rarely. It's more likely some substrate problem in my opinion. Just don't want you to get fresh paint and have the same problem.
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What the hell W&G remover are YOU using?! 20-30 minutes?! :eek: Unless it's some cheap Chinese crap, it shouldn't longer than 2-3 minutes to flash. If I'm in a hurry I blast the surface with compressed air and I'm ready to go in 30 seconds.

As far as the black goes, either the paint was shit or you had some kind of surface contamination on the base surface.
 
If you're looking for tips on the blue tin, I can see a little bit of dry spray in the lower left corner on the last pic. Could be sanded out depending on your film thickness, but otherwise good!
 
High On Octane said:
What the hell W&G remover are YOU using?! 20-30 minutes?! :eek: Unless it's some cheap Chinese crap, it shouldn't longer than 2-3 minutes to flash. If I'm in a hurry I blast the surface with compressed air and I'm ready to go in 30 seconds.

As far as the black goes, either the paint was shit or you had some kind of surface contamination on the base surface.
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Filler can be porous and hold some. I have no problem waiting that amount of time, and most other people probably don't either. Most data sheets say to blow off and tack after wiping dry. Do what you will.
 
mathil said:
If you're looking for tips on the blue tin, I can see a little bit of dry spray in the lower left corner on the last pic. Could be sanded out depending on your film thickness, but otherwise good!
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Sure tips are always apprciated. What does dry spray mean? I think that was 5 coats. So lots of buff and sand room.

I think I know why that area ended up that way. My tent setup is a bit low on height. So thats the area is closest to the ground so it probably got less coverage.

Since that part was black abs with clear coat I sanded 220 then 320 then 400. Did my blue coat with no primer. The sanded clear should provide the needed bite and its not metal so doesnt need any anti rust properties of primer.
 
HollywoodMX said:
Sure tips are always apprciated. What does dry spray mean? I think that was 5 coats. So lots of buff and sand room.

I think I know why that area ended up that way. My tent setup is a bit low on height. So thats the area is closest to the ground so it probably got less coverage.

Since that part was black abs with clear coat I sanded 220 then 320 then 400. Did my blue coat with no primer. The sanded clear should provide the needed bite and its not metal so doesnt need any anti rust properties of primer.
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Yup, dry spray is when an area isn't totally "wetted out" on one particular coat, and thus doesn't have enough material to flow out into a smooth film. I can see on the top of the tank where the paint flowed into a very low orange peel, which is exactly what you want, and you can see on the corner in the picture where it looks more like small specks of sand. Basically as the paint was atomized from the gun and collected on the tin there wasn't quite enough material to "connect the dots" so to speak and didn't flow out to smoothness.
 
HollywoodMX said:
Sure tips are always apprciated. What does dry spray mean? I think that was 5 coats. So lots of buff and sand room.

I think I know why that area ended up that way. My tent setup is a bit low on height. So thats the area is closest to the ground so it probably got less coverage.

Since that part was black abs with clear coat I sanded 220 then 320 then 400. Did my blue coat with no primer. The sanded clear should provide the needed bite and its not metal so doesnt need any anti rust properties of primer.
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It might be ok with the clear coat directly on the plastic, but you really should use an plastic adhesion promoter on any plastic parts (ABS, PP, PE, PPO, ect.). What did you do to prep the plastic?
 
High On Octane said:
It might be ok with the clear coat directly on the plastic, but you really should use an plastic adhesion promoter on any plastic parts (ABS, PP, PE, PPO, ect.). What did you do to prep the plastic?
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I didnt know there was such a thing. What products do you recommend?

I prepped it as i described above with the various grits of paper. I basically made all the shiney clear milky and dull but not deep enough to burn through it if that makes sense.
 
If you just scuffed the clear coat that was already adhered to the plastic, and painted that, you don't need a promoter.

If you're painting bare plastic, it's really hard to sand without it pilling up sometimes, depending on the type. It's also obviously not the stickiest thing, so they make adhesion promoters. Basically it's just a blend of solvents that "melt" the surface a bit. You spray the promoter on and then usually spray your first coat of paint onto it while it's still wet.
 
mathil said:
If you just scuffed the clear coat that was already adhered to the plastic, and painted that, you don't need a promoter.

If you're painting bare plastic, it's really hard to sand without it pilling up sometimes, depending on the type. It's also obviously not the stickiest thing, so they make adhesion promoters. Basically it's just a blend of solvents that "melt" the surface a bit. You spray the promoter on and then usually spray your first coat of paint onto it while it's still wet.
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Ya I thought so. I made sure I kept the sanding even.

Its good to know about the promoter for the future. Thanks!
 
Sand paper is usually too aggressive for plastic, most times you will end up with deep sand scvratches that will show thru the paint. Just a light scuff with a Scotch pad is all you need for new plastic parts. And adhesion promoter does not "melt" the plastic, it opens the pores of the plastic so when you spray your primer coat it bonds to plastic instead of sitting on top of it and later peeling off down the road.
 
High On Octane said:
Sand paper is usually too aggressive for plastic, most times you will end up with deep sand scvratches that will show thru the paint. Just a light scuff with a Scotch pad is all you need for new plastic parts. And adhesion promoter does not "melt" the plastic, it opens the pores of the plastic so when you spray your primer coat it bonds to plastic instead of sitting on top of it and later peeling off down the road.
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Ya I used 800 pressing lightly with soft pad then a grey scotch pad to finish it off
 
Flawless victory! !

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