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Just like the title says, I'm curious what everyone is running for ignition coils. I tried searching around, but didn't really get a good collaboration of input to give me a "Yes, these are THE coils to run" answer.
I'm in the process of rebuilding my entire bike ('71 CB350), and I cannot get a good reading on my coils. I figure that since I am redoing the harness from scratch, I'm going to go ahead and update the ignition system with the PAMCO unit to eliminate the points ( http://www.cb450ignition.com/Index350.htm ) and some type of aftermarket coil. I'd like to keep the budget low since I'm not building some race bike - just trying to build something that looks good and cruises well.
With that said, what would be a good route to keep the spark plug wires and coils separate? I'd hate to have to replace the entire coil should a wire get spliced for whatever reason.
I have a feeling this thread will turn into me asking all kinds of electrical questions. Still trying to figure out how to update the regulator and rectifier combo, what slim battery I can hide when I change the seat, neutral indicator, blah blah blah.
If the coil ohms out bad search for an OEM NOS or good used coil, don't buy Dyna coils or some Accel shit. the stock coils are fine, I would consider the Dyna S over Pamco as it has NO BOX everything id inside the cover in a board only one set of wires out like stock.
Just one of those deals for me, I run stock or new OE NOS coils and never have an issue.
[EDIT] I do plan to run this ignition on by BSA and I think they have one for the CB350 as well
I run cheap EMGO coils on my CL350. I can't remember who exactly I bought them through, but they were like $40 for the pair. I also run a previous generation PAMCO unit without the E-Advancer (but with the improved rotor). FWIW, in my opinion the bike runs excellent. Spark is fat, blue, and always there.
The mounts that come with the coils can be piggybacked to the stock coil brackets using one of the pre-drilled holes in the mount or they could just be attached directly to the frame with an angled piece of scrap. I did a cross between these two and ran a piece of scrap aluminum between the original coil brackets mounts so that I could utilize both pre-drilled holes in the coil mount. Here's pictures of the first two mounting methods (not my pictures).
The only issues I've run into with these coils are because the posts are exposed, First, to meet the posts I had to affix ring terminals to the tiny little wires coming from the PAMCO. Although I used quality terminals and a professional crimper, I still worry about those connections breaking. I also fitted an earlier style CB tank with a slightly narrower tunnel and initially this caused one of the coil posts to hit the underside of the tank, blowing fuses (and creating a nice explosion hazard ). A simple rotation of the coil in its mount and some liquid electrical tape on the post fixed that interference though. Stock coils have the wires fitted inside the housing so no worry with either problem.
At this given point in time with the build, I'm compiling Excel sheets to find the drawn amps of the system. I'm finding this more difficult than it really should - hardly anyone provides the wattage or ohms for a headlight, tail light, coil...Aggravating! I'll stick with the 12V system (probably ultimately to avoid messing around with the starter), but I want to keep the amps as low as possible - low enough without having a dimming headlight on low revs - and get a slim battery to "tuck" under a brat-style seat. I want to keep the area in front of the carbs as open as possible. Once I get this figured out and choose a battery, I'll design up a battery tray that will also hold a micro-controller.
I think my buddy and I may also try to take a stab at designing our own electronic ignition to eliminate the points system and use a micro-controller to "tune" the bike. Could make for an interesting (and learning) experience. We'll see if it's worth it all in the end and may just end up buying a PAMCO or similar.
Sonreir:
Would you happen to have some more info on the XT600 coils? I see a multitude of model-year spectrums and am unsure which to begin looking at. I may just be searching for the wrong thing. Judging by some Google pictures, it's difficult to tell if the spark wire is separate or joined to the coil; what experience do you have with them?
I've run the XT600 coils on an old SL350 I had and I've supplied them to several customers for their Honda twins. Anything after 1988 should be fine for use.
Spark wire is generally molded in with the coil, just like the OEM ones you have now.
For what it's worth, these coils do fit the factory bracket in terms of mounting holes. The spade connection does interfere with the mounting bracket. Even bending these leaves too tight of a space and you will be unable to put any type of insulated connector on there. We ended up having to solder our wires to the coils because of the minimal space.
They do work great, though! Nice fat, blue spark to both cylinders.
Can you increase the plug gap with these new coils?
I've put a heavy duty HD racing coil on my CD175 tracker with the correct resistance HD condenser- the mfg. blurb with the coil says it fires around 50,000 volts(?), a lot higher than the stock coils and I'm hoping to run .035 plug gap.
I know it's a bit like comparing apples and oranges, but I've done a coil conversion before; I replaced my Yamaha YR1 350 coils with Chev car coils and condensers and Chrysler ballast resistors. The plug gap was set at .035 versus the stock .028. I went over 8000 miles on the lashup without a fouled plug (2 stroke malady with the stock coils) and they looked like they were from a 4 stroke when I did a plug check.
Interesting comments about the Dyna and Accel coils; I've got a set of Dynas for my GS550 rebuild and always heard there was a noticeable improvement using them, but maybe it was just that old defective coils were being replaced with something new?
Pat
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). A simple rotation of the coil in its mount and some liquid electrical tape on the post fixed that interference though. Stock coils have the wires fitted inside the housing so no worry with either problem.
