What the HE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hot Rod Troy

Hot Rod Troy

Coast to Coast
I took my bike out for a ride tonight and when I got back the left side tail pipe exhaust was cold compared to the right. I pulled off the left side spark plug and guess what happened?





Nothing changed. I'm guessing that the coil is bad. If you have any other guesses PLEASE let me know.

Thanks in advance,
Troy
 
Hot Rod Troy said:
I took my bike out for a ride tonight and when I got back the left side tail pipe exhaust was cold compared to the right. I pulled off the left side spark plug and guess what happened?





Nothing changed. I'm guessing that the coil is bad. If you have any other guesses PLEASE let me know.

Thanks in advance,
Troy
Click to expand...

Anybody? Any guess would help.
Thanks
 
Ok - don't guess - pull the plug, connect it to the wire, ground it to the engine and turn it over. If you see spark, that's good. If you don't see spark, then you work your way backwards.
 
you're absolutely not getting ignition in that cylinder.. so its only 1 or both of 2 things

1-no spark
2-no gas.

1--I had that problem with my old cb200 once.. turned out my carbs were gummy from the winter (didn't stabilize or drain bowls.)

chek for spark: pull the plug out, leave it plugged in, lay it so the the sides of the plug ground out to the engine blok.

start engine, look for spark on that plug. YES/NO? if no, get a new plug, try again.. still NO? prob either coil or spark plug cable. (provided coil's wiring hasn't been removed from the feed side)

SPARK, BUT NO GO? MOVE TO #2

2-- pull fuel line off carb.. does gas flow all over the ground? yes? good.

does the bowl of the carb have fuel in it? float may be stuck not allowing the fuel to flow into it, or stuck so its flooded.. either pull of the fuel line and filter and drown it in carb cleaner, go have a beer (or 2), button it bak together and fire away

-or-

turn off gas, pull off the carb, remove the bowl was it full o gas? yes-prob flooded, no-probably dry. Turn on gas... are you making a puddle of gas on the drive way? Yes, good, mess around with the float, does it stop flowing fuel.. good.

aaaah Geez.. now i'm buzzed (from the 2 beers).. since we got it all apart.. might as well drown it in carb cleaner, have 2 more beers, button it back up, try starting it again...

warning.. if it works, and you have spark and ignition on both cyl's, don't go for a test drive, you've had 4 beers (at least) and you might get dinged with impaired, or crash it (making matters worse)

hope it helps!

sammo
 
my 360 likes to play this game too. i think i will go through the check list as well. i get spark so its carb fun time. ill post back if/when i get results
thank you for information
 
Here is what I found tonight. I pulled the plug laid it on the case and got a big fat spark. before I did that I looked at the plug, it was wet and and smelled like gas. Next I put it back and started adjusting the carbs. I must have had it set too rich 'cause when I turned the mixture screw back 1/4 turn she turned over and ran pretty smoothly. I am going to ride to work in the morning I'll post an update after I get there.

Thanks everybody, I really do appreciate the help.
Troy
 
She started a little rough this morning but got going. About half way to work it started sputtering and feeling like it was running out of gas; let it sit for about ten minutes and off we went. It was still bogging like I was running out of gas. The exhaust on the left side was still cold, and I could touch the header pipe bare handed. The right side was hot. Does this help give a better idea on what might be happening. I'm getting plenty of fuel, I think because the filters are half full to full when I look at them. I'm really not sure where to go from here.
 
sounds like you gotta tune the carb, but before you do that, take it off and clean the hell out of it.. if nothing else, your carb will appreciate the attention
 
Sammo, tune it how? By adjusting the mixture screw, or are you talking about syncing the carbs? If you are talking about syncing, I'm not sure where I would hook up a mannometer. I will see what I can do after work. It runs better when it's cold and like crap when it gets up to operating temp.




Now it's after work and it wont even start. ARRRGh
 
K pull the plug wire off the bad Cyl.

GOOD CYLINDER = CYL 1

Screw in the mixture screw fully (gently!!!), then back it off 2 1/4 turns.

Remove the air filter so you can see in the carb, screw in the idle screw another half turn, then look in the open side of the carb and slowly unscrew the idle speed set screw 1/4 turn at a time until you see the Carb Cyl hit bottom (it will stop moving), remember how many times that was, write it down. Now give it 2 full rotations in (we're gonna run this baby on 1 cyl for now so we need more air) ===>SETTING 1

Get 'er started, adjust idle screw back until its idling semi-normal speed remember how many turns that took. Write it down.

Adjust the mixture screw so that the 1 cyl sounds nice and snappy. Remember how many turns that was from DEAD BOTTOM. Write it down. Throttle response should be quick and sharp, not boggy or top out too early.

unscrew the idle speed screw so that its BARELY running, almost stalling. ===>SETTING 2

TURN BIKE OFF.

REMOVE PLUG WIRE FROM "CYLINDER 1", RE-CONNECT WIRE FROM "CYLINDER 2".

SET THE MIX SCREW TO THE SAME AS THE FIRST CARB.

SET IDLE SCREW TO "SETTING 1"

GET IT RUNNING ON "CYLINDER 2"

BACK OFF IDLE SCREW TILL ITS BARELY RUNNING

TURN BIKE OFF.

RECONNECT ALL PLUG WIRES

START BIKE

it will be idling very high, now equally back off each idle screw till its running normal speed. In the mornings, you will probly turn in each idle screw 1/2 then back it off when it gets warm.

AND

good luck
 
SammoT120 said:
K pull the plug wire off the bad Cyl.

GOOD CYLINDER = CYL 1

Screw in the mixture screw fully (gently!!!), then back it off 1 1/4 turns.

Remove the air filter so you can see in the carb, screw in the idle screw another half turn, then look in the open side of the carb and slowly unscrew the idle speed set screw 1/4 turn at a time until you see the Carb Cyl hit bottom (it will stop moving), remember how many times that was, write it down. Now give it 2 full rotations in (we're gonna run this baby on 1 cyl for now so we need more air) ===>SETTING 1

Get 'er started, adjust idle screw back until its idling semi-normal speed remember how many turns that took. Write it down.

Adjust the mixture screw so that the 1 cyl sounds nice and snappy. Remember how many turns that was from DEAD BOTTOM. Write it down. Throttle response should be quick and sharp, not boggy or top out too early.

unscrew the idle speed screw so that its BARELY running, almost stalling. ===>SETTING 2

TURN BIKE OFF.

REMOVE PLUG WIRE FROM "CYLINDER 1", RE-CONNECT WIRE FROM "CYLINDER 2".

SET THE MIX SCREW TO THE SAME AS THE FIRST CARB.

SET IDLE SCREW TO "SETTING 1"

GET IT RUNNING ON "CYLINDER 2"

BACK OFF IDLE SCREW TILL ITS BARELY RUNNING

TURN BIKE OFF.

RECONNECT ALL PLUG WIRES

START BIKE

it will be idling very high, now equally back off each idle screw till its running normal speed. In the mornings, you will probly turn in each idle screw 1/2 then back it off when it gets warm.

AND

good luck
Click to expand...

I will give this a try after work. Keep your fingers crossed.
Thanks,
Troy
 
since i am having some of the same issues im going to chime in with some things as well. my left side exhaust leaks at the connection of the header and exhust and also has some holes. should i fix this before starting the carb work? how can i patch a rust hole that is just smaller than a dime?
thank you guys
 
dcmspikes said:
since i am having some of the same issues im going to chime in with some things as well. my left side exhaust leaks at the connection of the header and exhust and also has some holes. should i fix this before starting the carb work? how can i patch a rust hole that is just smaller than a dime?
thank you guys
Click to expand...

operating the engine with exhaust leaks and/or no exhaust and/or exhaust holes will change the overall performance of the engine. I am NOT a mechanic, and i would love to hear the explanation for; running straight pipes will burn out your valves.

I'm a big fan of muffler cement. i have used it on many shitty cars i've had over my early years where a new muffler would double the value of the car. That stuff you buy from Canadian Tire or Pep boys that looks grey and charcoaly that u mash together and smooth on is GREAT. You can sand it and spread it around... if you're not in the market for new pipes, get some of this stuff, then buy some of that cool nylon header wrap if you're concerned about the look of you're bubble gum patch job. It can be your little secret.

Depending on where you're leaking at the header junction, this stuff can mash into those gaps too.. remove your pipe, spread it nice n thin on the pipe to fill up the gap and voila.. done. Then start saving your pennies and nickles for new pipes.

don't forget to sand as much of the loose rust off and to scuff up the shiny chromey pipes before you apply if you want the stuff to stick.. be careful not to get it into your cylinders too.. the engine doesn't like it on the inside.
 
so def work out the leaks before trying to solve carb troubles. i think there might be some tape or something that will cover the holes. i am not too concerned with the looks. this bike will go after i finish my other one.
 
SammoT120 said:
operating the engine with exhaust leaks and/or no exhaust and/or exhaust holes will change the overall performance of the engine. I am NOT a mechanic, and i would love to hear the explanation for; running straight pipes will burn out your valves.

I'm a big fan of muffler cement. i have used it on many shitty cars i've had over my early years where a new muffler would double the value of the car. That stuff you buy from Canadian Tire or Pep boys that looks grey and charcoaly that u mash together and smooth on is GREAT. You can sand it and spread it around... if you're not in the market for new pipes, get some of this stuff, then buy some of that cool nylon header wrap if you're concerned about the look of you're bubble gum patch job. It can be your little secret.

Depending on where you're leaking at the header junction, this stuff can mash into those gaps too.. remove your pipe, spread it nice n thin on the pipe to fill up the gap and voila.. done. Then start saving your pennies and nickles for new pipes.

don't forget to sand as much of the loose rust off and to scuff up the shiny chromey pipes before you apply if you want the stuff to stick.. be careful not to get it into your cylinders too.. the engine doesn't like it on the inside.
Click to expand...


I wonder if that may be part of my problem? The exhuast on the right side does not seal at the header. I don't think that it explains why the air exiting the muffler is cold and not pulsing as hard as on the left. That is a huge concern for me. Maybe I'll rap it with som aluminum tape and see what happens.
 
its cold cuz its not firing.. but when you get it firing, you must address the leakage issue if you're to tune the carbs.
 
jthe manuals use different terms for these screws. just to be certain. there are two screw at the fron (engine end) of each carb. one closer to top and one closer to bottom. there is also the large screw below left side carb. which scrwee are the idle and which are the mix?

http---wwwdothetoncom-downloads-CB3.jpg


sorry for the newbness
thank you
 
The pilot screw in picture two is the air/fuel mixture screw. The throttle stop screw is it idle screw. I hope this helps.
 
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