Will honing get rid of this?

[AlphaDogChoppers]

(the only one in my area that will do it is $89 a cylinder which is highway robbery so I'm really hoping a good honing is all it needs).

Actually, that is not too much money to pay for it properly done. I just paid that for a cylinder boring job. The place that did it does lots of motorcycle cylinders, and they did it exactly to my instructions. I gave them the factory clearance spec, (which is actually a range,) and told them I wanted it done to the tight end of the range. They did it just like I wanted. It'll be tight, but after proper break in, it will last a very, very long time.

It was a cylinder much like yours. There was corrosion from the bike sitting outside, and it had deep rust damage. Still, the bike was run for 5 years and 20,000 miles like that before the tear down and rebore.

 

[Teddy21502]

Will honing get rid of this?

My bike only had 6k on it.

I'm going to see if bradj will hone it for me after the holiday.


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[xb33bsa]

i can highly recommend northwest sleeve $110 + shipping for a 2 holer

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=50470.0

http://nwsleeve.com/

 

[AlphaDogChoppers]

Re: Will honing get rid of this?

My bike only had 6k on it.

That's pretty much a guarantee that it has never been bored. If it wasn't for the corrosion, the cylinders would still have the cross-hatch. Probably still do where they aren't damaged.

 

[Teddy21502]

Will honing get rid of this?

Yeah I can kind of see it. Can't get a good pic of it though.


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[Teddy21502]

Good news! After honing(thanks Bradj) I have been told that my cylinders are good to go!

 

[K0Kid]

I agree and disagree. Yeah, you should have a machinist determine which oversize you need, but no, you don't want to have them bored to a theoretical oversize number before actually having pistons in hand. Why's that you ask? Because I just did a 350 overbore in my shop whose pistons were actually .001" different. I don't even shoot to a "number" at this point, I shoot to the clearance over the piston itself, it's practically a guarantee that you'll fry an engine if you have a machinist bore to a number before getting your pistons in hand, especially with this old stuff where aftermarket is a small business and quality control is somewhat lax

A smart machinist won't bore unless he has the pistons in hand and HE has measured it himself prior to ordering them, they usually ask for them. Take the extra steps, hone it first just to see if it'll clean up, then assess. Borrow a glaze breaker or a ridge reamer to get rid of the crust and a bottle brush use liberal amounts of lubricant. Other good advice here. Good luck
oh well a little late.... lucky you