Will this replace cb360 R/R?

[fiedler.casey]

If I wire this in to my 360, do I wire white yellow from alt to single yellow on R/R, and pink to yellow? Or each alt wire to an individual yellow on the R/R?

Also what do I do with the black? Does that take a 12V hot lead? Or do I not wire it in?

Thanks.

 

[Maineiac]

Do you know what it came off of?

 

[ILoveThumpers]

That's for a 3-phase stator. (3 yellow wires)

-Deek

 

[Sonreir]

But it will also work for the single phase bikes if you wire it in correctly.

Bike - R/R
Yellow - Yellow
Pink - Yellow
White - Yellow
Battery - Red
Ground - Green
Black - Black (or Battery - Black if you're going to run lithium ion battery)

 

[ILoveThumpers]

Realy?!

I learn something new every day here...

So does the CB360 have two windings on the coil?

-Deek

 

[Sonreir]

Yeah... the white and yellow are each partial windings with the pink being the two joined together on the other side.

 

[Maineiac]

I ran this on my cb360. Worked like a champ.
http://bit.ly/1a81mj1

 

[fiedler.casey]

But it will also work for the single phase bikes if you wire it in correctly.

Bike - R/R
Yellow - Yellow
Pink - Yellow
White - Yellow
Battery - Red
Ground - Green
Black - Black (or Battery - Black if you're going to run lithium ion battery)

Sorry to bring this one back up again, but I need a little clarification. Black -> black means what? I think I read somewhere that the black wire is a 12v output that's active any time the bike is running. So I could wire the black from the R/R to the tail light, or something of the sort? Otherwise I should just cap it off and choose not to use it?

Thanks.

 

[frogman]

Black is "Sense" wire, the unit needs to 'read' the switched power for the bike to know when to regulate the voltage. On Honda's that's the black wire.

 

[Sonreir]

Yup. What Franz said. Black is an input wire, not output. Output is your red wire.

 

[fiedler.casey]

So black should be run from the battery then. Thank you.

 

[Rich Ard]

No - red to the battery, black to any black wire that's pushing 12v. The running light (not brake light) is good.

 

[Redliner]

In Honda's, black is the +12v after the ignition key. Red is the +12v before the ignition key, direct from battery post.

 

[fiedler.casey]

Someone help me figure out why it makes a difference if I wire it to the 12V lead after the ignition key rather than before it?

I'm trying to better understand the why behind this.

 

[Redliner]

The red/white wire from the R/R is used to charge the battery, so it must connect STRAIGHT to the battery and bypass the fuse, rather than send that electricity unchecked through the circuits and blow your bulbs and other electrics, which use the common hot (black) wire.

The black wire in the R/R measures the voltage coming FROM the common hot when your key is in the run position. That measurement or reference voltage is what tells the regulator to start dumping electricity straight to the frame rather than the battery. That normally happens at between 14.4 and 15.5 volts. If you're using a battery that is NOT lead-acid, you'd probably want to limit the charging voltage to no more than 14.5.

That's my understanding, and I don't claim to understand it.

 

[Sonreir]

The red/white wire from the R/R is used to charge the battery, so it must connect STRAIGHT to the battery and bypass the fuse, rather than send that electricity unchecked through the circuits and blow your bulbs and other electrics, which use the common hot (black) wire.

The black wire in the R/R measures the voltage coming FROM the common hot when your key is in the run position. That measurement or reference voltage is what tells the regulator to start dumping electricity straight to the frame rather than the battery. That normally happens at between 14.4 and 15.5 volts. If you're using a battery that is NOT lead-acid, you'd probably want to limit the charging voltage to no more than 14.5.

That's my understanding, and I don't claim to understand it.

Not entirely correct.

The red goes straight to the battery because it would power your bike with the key turned off if you ran it to after the ignition switch.

I think Casey was asking about the black wire though...

Truth is, you can put the black wire after the ignition switch or before it. If you put the black wire closer to the battery positive terminal, the voltage sensed will be higher because the electricity doesn't have to run through as many switches, connectors, or feet of wire. When sensed voltage is higher, the regulator kicks in sooner and drops the voltage level lower. If you wire the black wire into something after the ignition switch, resistance is higher and voltages read lower. Therefore the regulator kicks in later and leads to a higher system voltage, overall.

 

[Redliner]

So in regard to the red, it is connected before the switch so that turning the switch to off will disconnect the output from the alternator from the harness completely.

I've dealt with botched hidden switches with this issue. The bike would remain running off of the stator output until you used the kill switch to disconnect the coils from the circuit.

Sorry for confusion.

Red/white charges battery
Black is a reference voltage

 

[Sonreir]

More or less, yes.

Also, the alternator doesn't generally produce enough current to cook any of your electronics (unless your regulator is faulty). So having it connected to the battery before the fuse is more of a safety measure than a necessity. If you don't have a battery, you can often run without a fuse at all, though I don't recommend it for a street bike.

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

Not entirely correct.

The red goes straight to the battery because it would power your bike with the key turned off if you ran it to after the ignition switch.

I think Casey was asking about the black wire though...

Truth is, you can put the black wire after the ignition switch or before it. If you put the black wire closer to the battery positive terminal, the voltage sensed will be higher because the electricity doesn't have to run through as many switches, connectors, or feet of wire. When sensed voltage is higher, the regulator kicks in sooner and drops the voltage level lower. If you wire the black wire into something after the ignition switch, resistance is higher and voltages read lower. Therefore the regulator kicks in later and leads to a higher system voltage, overall.

To add to this, if I hook up to my Black, ignition switched wire, my actual charging voltage with the OEM Regulator is around 15.5v max. when the Sense wire is hooked to the battery, my actual charging voltage is 14.5 max. Sonreirs Voltage Regulator, with the black sense wire to battery is 13.7 Volts, but I have it hooked up to the original black switched wire and get about 14.3 volts. Since I have a standard Lead/Acid Battery, the 14.3 is exactly what I want.

 

[fiedler.casey]

Another question in this wonderful series. Right now I have a 6 fuse ATC panel installed under my seat pan. The battery is hooked up to the common lead for this fuse panel. I currently am planning on running the red output from the R/R also to the common lead post on the fuse panel so that the rest of the components are protected from the R/R and there it can share a connection to the battery in order to charge it. Here's my question.

If I hook up the black sensor wire somewhere that allows the R/R to output >13V then will it boost the overall system voltage on the fuse panel outputs? Some of my fuses are within a half an amp of allowance and if the R/R causes my system voltage to increase much over 13V I'm afraid it'll pop some of my fuses.

Should I just increase the amperage ratings on the fuses, or should I connect the black sensor wire in such a way that it allows only 13V output?