Not sure if this is the right place to post so please let me know if a different section is better. I'm trying to switch handlebars on my 1970 CB450. The OEM ones have all the wires fed through the bars, which was a PIA to pull out. But now i have a problem. Do I cut holes in my brand new bars and feed them through, which seems daunting? Or modify/cut the switch housings so that the cables can be run on the outside. Hopefully this makes sense. The switch housings don't have a cutout or room for the cables to not run through the bars... Any suggestions, ideas, or anyone have the same issue? I didn't realize this year and model did this. I had a 1977 cb550 and those were on the outside. Thanks a TON!
Wiring through handlebars
- Thread starter acwmn3
- Start date
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Drill the bars. drill them the same as the OE and use a fish tape to pull the wires through. wires tie wrapped or taped to bars looks like crap.
carnivorous chicken
Over 1,000 Posts
If you're going to try to drill the bars and pull the wiring through, make sure to use a rat tail file or sandpaper to smooth the holes -- they will tear the shit out of your wiring otherwise. And you can use some kind of spray lube to facilitate pulling them through.
On the other hand, I sometimes notch switch housings and run them under the bars with a single zip tie, depending on the bars. Pretty common, and some bikes came with external handlebar wiring.
On the other hand, I sometimes notch switch housings and run them under the bars with a single zip tie, depending on the bars. Pretty common, and some bikes came with external handlebar wiring.
Much of the decision will be based on the bars you're planning on using. Post up a pic. I've drilled bars before - it's no big deal. But don't forget there's a little hole on the bars that accepts a locating pin on the controls - it keeps them from rotating on the bars. At least lots have that - if you try to put the controls on the bars without drilling this hole, you can crack the housing.
Just match the OEM factory drilling and you'll be fine. File / sand the edges of the holes, and then struggle for a few hours with the wiring. The left side is worse, as there are more wires if I recall. Fish a pulling wire in, wrap up the loose ends and pull them through gently with some silicone spray or something to lubricate them a bit.
If the bars are short and you're only hiding a few inches of wire, then dremel the housings and run them externally.
Just match the OEM factory drilling and you'll be fine. File / sand the edges of the holes, and then struggle for a few hours with the wiring. The left side is worse, as there are more wires if I recall. Fish a pulling wire in, wrap up the loose ends and pull them through gently with some silicone spray or something to lubricate them a bit.
If the bars are short and you're only hiding a few inches of wire, then dremel the housings and run them externally.
Akastus
Been Around the Block
Ive routed wiring through bars plenty of times. It seems daunting, but its really not. Just do what everyone else here has suggested. Match the holes to stock best you can, file or dremel the edges (i use the dremel) and make sure you take your time. I usually pull them through one at a time and then slip shrink wrap over them afterwards.
Its much easier once you start the project. Youll be done in no time.
Its much easier once you start the project. Youll be done in no time.
+1. Easier than it may seem. Very important to put the bars on the bike and get the bars and controls where you want them rotation-wise so you get the wiring holes in the right place. And don't forget the distance from the end of the bar! There is actually a fair bit of leeway, but you want to get it close to start with so you can fine tune after you start riding. The pin in most controls that locate them rotation-wise usually can be pulled out with some pliers pretty easily and the control will still clamp tightly enough to the bar to prevent rotation if you don't want to fuss with the hole for the pin. I use a 1/2" drill after first drilling a pilot hole. Then a die grinder or Dremel to round and smooth the hole. You should be able to rub your finger around hard inside the hole without getting cut - nothing worse than an intermittent electrical problem from cut insulation in an invisible location. Two holes next to each other in the center, and don't take for granted this hole location either - determine its location when you mock up the bars. I can always just push the wires through without a fish tape, but I always seem to have low and short bars so it is pretty easy. It will help to tape over the ends of all the wires temporarily with electrical tape to keep them from bunching up inside the bar. You can use some electricians lube or some dish soap to make things easier if things get tight.
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Shame on ya, But I bet you did some fancy wrap and OE ties
BiellaBound
Active Member
Definitely planning to do and that's when I upgrade my bars
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