xxxtra picante...just bought a frickn trainwreck kz750

[rich]

the budget comes out of my pay...if it gets ridiculous i'll work more

he stoll got to be within his budget though

Rich, you sooooo need a good mentor. The manual will help tons, but having someone who has been there and done that makes a huge difference.

Surely there is a fellow DTTer in Melbourne.

yeah..i know..but im enjoying myself...i looked up clutch plates and it says that a new set is relatively cheap ..yeah i know they jammed/stuck whatever the terminology their not moving. i'm already doing one thing at a time- one thing a day at the moment...
the kz guys say that this is the most common of issues in an sitting kz
the plan is

now- 250 wheel off- brakes disconnected
next
clutch try to get it moving or buy new one
redo compression
and then split the loom up reconnect...buy any bits that test wrong

and seriously guys ...i know i don't know shit..that's why im doing it.. to learn.
feel free to let me know if im stuffing something up but enough sanctimonious comments about how shit I am... I'm an adult...i earn cash and have a budget..i'm not an idiot..im just teaching myself to fix a bike.. love to hear your constructive comments but keep the attitude for arrogant wankers who buy their cafe racers brand new- if i wanna work 12 hours and fix a bike for four then i guess that makes me determined...not someone to talk down to.
i appreciate the help so far...keep it coming

 

[dp9]

love your mentality. onward and upward to mistakes and experience!


ive been working on a couple kawi's lately and they both had stuck clutches from sitting. after a couple initial runs up and down the street they free'd right up. stuck doesnt necessarily mean broken. conversely, I'm sure most guys on here will tell you to at least have a look at them, which is the safe way to go about it.

 

[rich]

love your mentality. onward and upward to mistakes and experience!


ive been working on a couple kawi's lately and they both had stuck clutches from sitting. after a couple initial runs up and down the street they free'd right up. stuck doesnt necessarily mean broken. conversely, I'm sure most guys on here will tell you to at least have a look at them, which is the safe way to go about it.

cheers
i'll give it a go this weekend.. if the rest of the bikes an indication they'll definitely need work

 

[4eyes]

Learning by doing is the best way.

It sounds like you have good compression, so I wouldn't spend any more time on that. I second the recommendation to pull the clutch pack out, and resurface the steel pieces. All it takes is a flat surface and some 600 grit wet/dry paper. A thick pane of glass works well, so do most counter-tops.
It would be a good excuse to change gear-box oil too.
I like your "can do" attitude. 8)

 

[Curtis]

I completely agree, pull the clutch pack out, carefully pull each plate out, re surface the steel ones, check your fibre plates, if they look deteriorated or ripped, just buy a clutch kit, they are only about 50-75 bucks. and well worth the money for when the bike is together and running/driving.

 

[rich]

Learning by doing is the best way.

It sounds like you have good compression, so I wouldn't spend any more time on that. I second the recommendation to pull the clutch pack out, and resurface the steel pieces. All it takes is a flat surface and some 600 grit wet/dry paper. A thick pane of glass works well, so do most counter-tops.
It would be a good excuse to change gear-box oil too.

awesome..thanks for the tip...I'll try this weekend.. bit hard to find my way around without a manual do you reckon the 750 four manual will do for an 84 shafty...i imagine their the same... im also realising that the clutch lever or lack of..is probably at least partly to blame... ill do some photo's on sunday
thanks curtis and 4 eyes
I like your "can do" attitude. 8)

 

[sallgoodguy]

I think you're missunderstanding Alpha... He's not calling you a dope. I think what he may be saying is there is a little more to it than just throwing yourself into the bike. You didnt know how to do a compression test, and to those that have invested in years of school and experience, thats a basic knowledge. BUT... you're here and asking questions and thats good. You'll get answers. Be patient with us as well. This is a VERY FRIENDLY FORUM! There is another that I wont mention... that they would have given you pages of verbal abuse.

I recommend you attack this in steps. Step one.. get that engine up and running. All mechanicals first.

 

[modifiedamerican]

2nd that sallgoodguy! this forum has done wonders for me! and alot of other people. super friendly people, always willing to help out and go out of their way to help each other out. this is my fav forum by far. and the only one forum i go to.

 

[rich]

Question :the fuse box is unlabeled with five fuses- from closest to the 'power in' what is each fuse for ? KZ750 GT (kz750-p) 84



clutch kits on the way-I've untangled much of the loom and have power to the fusebox- ignition - light switches and ignitor- now I've got to work out why there's power but no lights or starter motor as of yet.
I think I'm gonna have to rebuild one circuit at a time.

I've also ordered a new back wheel to replace the undersized crap that was on it

then clutch when it arrives

then check the motor out properly with power

then brakes

 

[Big R]

Still no manual, huh? The wiring diagram would be really useful with those fuses. Have you tried pulling fuses out and see what shuts off?

 

[rich]

take out the fuses... its not that easy unfortunately.
I know there's power because of the multimeter (and actually i will defuse and check with the meter) but I dont have lights or any dash instruments
I'll have to put in a tacho and speedo and oil light.
The headlight bulb is in, as are the rear blinkers and stoplight but no front blinkers I'm thinking that the light relay circuit cant work due to this- and as a lot of the wires tend to turn around in the instrument panel ive got a whole lot of 'spare' wires.

If I can get the ignition circuit going I can turn her over- even just the starter motor- I that's my main aim. Lights will be easy. and I'm putting in a couple of accessory lines for handle bar warmers and a charging port.
so

1- ignitor test/regulator rectifier test
2-starter test
3-relay test

I'll probably go through and replace the ignition circuit- its a mess of splices- I soldered 15 different connections today but
I'll get what I can go going first.

 

[Big R]

If you want the starter motor to spin, you can use some jumper cables and a battery. Negative to a clean spot on the motor and positive on the bolt/wire that is on the body of the starter motor.

Fyi: it will make a spark so make sure nothing is flammable around.

 

[brycegp]

pics...pics...pics...pics. Four pages...and no pics....??

;-)

 

[Erskine]

Wot no pics? This isn't radio you know.

 

[rich]

coming to you live from...rainy Melbourne AAAAustralia, the pic free, low rate, sugar free reality show where skills are in short supply and persistence is king.
Starring one slightly broken KZ 750 GT - No electricity and a bucketload of bolts-
and your humble host RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRiiiiichhhh- That's just Rich and not 'Big Rich' which is a little insulting.
And now to an ad 'for I cant believe Thats a Motorbike- we'll b e right back with some ffffffffffffotos directly.
Stay tuned loyal hecklers....there'll be a cafe racer coming your way any month now.

 

[rich]

If you want the starter motor to spin, you can use some jumper cables and a battery. Negative to a clean spot on the motor and positive on the bolt/wire that is on the body of the starter motor.

Fyi: it will make a spark so make sure nothing is flammable around.

tried that...loads of sparks but no go- is it dependent on kill switches or other wiring coz I aint got much?

 

[rich]

pics..I think..

 

[rich]

aargh..pics are annoying
where do the bullet connectors go from what I think is the starter solenoid- there is one female connection on the fuse box same colour- but Im missing one?

 

[rich]

how do these fit
many of them seem to be self explanatory but the 'bridge' -metal clamp over the battery seems to have one red and white male bullet which goes to the solenoid and the other side is red and blue and is disconnected
I will trace these properly once I have a manual - the 750 four manual is wired differently..but if anyone knows?

 

[rich]

the actual bike