I've read it through several times, now to put it into practiceder_nanno said:Oh I remember the article, even though I must have read it ages ago!
Mine weighs in at 3.4 with the caps and taps in place. Thanks again for the numbersRedbird said:Levi, the spare RD400 tank I have weighs in at 9lbs on the digital bathroom scale.
And that's minus fuel tap and cap.
Haha I see what you did there. I haven't thought about sealer yet, but, for the short term the plan against ethanol will be to run aircraft fuel, as for the compression values I will likely be running (need to pick your brain on that one too) will require high test gas, and the local airport is a stone's throw from my house. I generally get fuel there for winter storage anyhow. I wish there were some of those ethanol free gas stations around here like there are in the south....teazer said:How will you seal that tank against modern ethanol based fuels? I sealed an old tank recently with Caswell but it was a PIA to scour the inside surface to get a good key for the coating.
Just sell if to me and I'll cut the bottom out and use it as a shell for our drag race bike. See how I saved you there.... ;-)
I'm kidding about the last bit, but it will need to be sealed somehow.
I,ve sen that site before, but I'm in Marion, and that Delaware marina (the closest one) is about 40 minutes of pain in the butt highway to get to. For now, being as I pass the airport twice a day, I'll use that for the time being. Maybe make a run to the marina with a few "stock up" cans when the time comes. Thanks man!irk miller said:No need for avgas, you have non-ethanol options. Avgas is usually 100 octane. Too bad you don't have options like I have options, but you have options.
I'm not on the up and up on leaded vs. Unleaded. Your saying I'd want to run leaded?Tune-A-Fish© said:You should be able to find some VP U4 in 5 gallon cans close by.
Avgas is 100LL (low lead) dry gas.
hurco550 said:I'm not on the up and up on leaded vs. Unleaded. Your saying I'd want to run leaded?
irk miller said:Or just make it simple and throw a handful of drywall screws in the tank, tumble it for an hour, line it with Caswell, and go to your nearest gas station for a fill up.
hurco550 said:Haha I see what you did there. I haven't thought about sealer yet, but, for the short term the plan against ethanol will be to run aircraft fuel, as for the compression values I will likely be running (need to pick your brain on that one too) will require high test gas, and the local airport is a stone's throw from my house. I generally get fuel there for winter storage anyhow. I wish there were some of those ethanol free gas stations around here like there are in the south....
Im having a hard time finding info on what exactly the rd350 head cc should be. Should I make it the same as stock after I do the head/squish machining work? It makes sense with raising the ex. Port having less effective compression.teazer said:VP U4.4 has alcohol and whole lot of other chemical soup and it's 90 bucks a 5 gallon pail. Stay away from slow burning avgas designed for engines that peak at around 5,000.
CR 17:1, and a load of VP C12 and you should be golden. OK, so not so high. I got 20mm domes for one RD and plan on using 18mm domes in the drag race motor. Compression is related to exhaust port height and exhaust efficiency. With high port and poor exhaust, the effective compression is very low. If the pipe is working well and creating a perfectly timed stuffing wave, the effective compression is much higher.
The other variable ( there's more than one, but let's keep this simple) is squish band or more specifically Mean Squish Velocity which is a function of squish width and depth and angle and RPM. For low revs, we use a tight squish band and/or a wide one. For a top end motor we need a narrower band to keep MSV down at higher engine speeds.
For a slightly warmed over bike with mild porting, compression can be raised a little but not too much.