Recent content by loudboy

Thanks :)

Agh! What was the solution? What did you find after all that on and off? I'm having the same sort of problem. Follow up people, follow up!

Very valid points based purely on numbers. However, in my single personal experience just now, the 10mm flexes on as much as it should to seat and does not appear deformed when removed and compared to an unused 10mm clip. A bit of machining on a lathe or similar solution is a great idea.

For anyone who has a similar problem of the kickstart C-Clip coming off and spilling all the parts into the bottom of the case, I just found that a 10mm E-Clip instead of the stock 12mm C-Clip works very well. A new 12mm C-Clip I can pop off with my fingers; the 10mm E-Clip needed pliers to get...

I just found that a 10mm E-Clip instead of the stock 12mm C-Clip works very well. A new 12mm C-Clip I can pop off with my fingers; the 10mm E-Clip needed pliers to get off. $0.63 cents at Ace Hardware.

Is there any solution for this problem? I had the exact same thing happen to me. I've split the case and have a new C-clip of the right size (12mm), but it pops off easily too; I can pop it off with my fingers without much effort. The groove it sits in is not very deep, so I'm thinking I may...

Good idea. I'd seen mention of that before, and now looking into it more it's just a matter of which I find first!

In the process of rebuilding my 1971 CB350 twin, decided to replace the badly pitted camshaft. A buddy of mine sent me a replacement, but unfortunately it is a "fat" cam from early bikes. Anyone have a "skinny" cam? I'll trade/buy it from you! Thanks. -Anthony

Yea, powdercoat will work for many areas, especially the tank. But as in this thread, it wont work for parts that move against each other for long: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=43696.msg475837#msg475837

If you plan to do a clearcoat anyways, then the Flood will be unnecessary. I did Flood as opposed to clearcoat because it doesnt create a definted hard layer that paint will, so it wont chip off on my moving parts (fold-up foot peg brackets ect). Where the Gibbs will be benificial is in any...

I have not been able to find a definitive answer as to the best way to protect bare, raw metal. Sure, clearcoat powdercoating or spray paint could work, but it cant protect wear surfaces without chipping very well. I decided to test a few products under controlled circumstances: Penetrol by...

Thanks for the knowledge. I am not having anyone do powder coating yet, I'm just doing my homework before-hand. Right now all my parts are bare steel. I understand that threaded/moving areas will need to be masked so that the paint/PC doesn't attach and then be ruined/prevent assembly, but then...

Well how about parts that have to be threaded together (like the nut over the end of the rear brake tie rod) or parts that slide past each other (like the front and rear folding-up footpegs)? Luckily those parts are easy enough to take off to recoat with the oil of choice, I guess... BTW, mine...

Thanks for all the good info. I haven't painted them up yet, but I'll give it a shot. I've got a steel bar out in the yard right now with 1/3 Gibbs lube, 1/3 Flood brand penetrant, and 1/3 WD-40 to see which holds up better to moisture/rust, but if a clear powdercoat really is that tough then I...

Thanks, but I'm not so much worried about the bolts doing the harm but more the compression of the parts being pressed together i.e. washers crushing/twisting on the paint, part on part surfaces vibrating against each other.