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Ah. Okay, Looks like the relay is reading 7-12 volts. Am I reading that right? It jumps around.

I don't have one! I'm gonna hop out now and get one. I'm new to this. How am I testing it? Touching both positive and negative prongs to the black wire? Also, if the relay is the problem, would this one work as a replacement...

Okay. I hooked all that up that way, and no dice. Are my two black wires an issue? One says ground, in general, and the other "Extra Black" seems to be ground/flasher relay. That ground/flasher relay one needs to be used for the horn to work, and the other ground hasn't been making much difference

Ah! Good advice all around... So it looks like I did knock connections off of what I assume is the relay. There's a pic below. Is that it? I can't really tell whats positive and whats negative as one is labeled "L" and one is an "X". I tried connecting the grey and black wires both ways and...

Thats definitely what I have. And they don't work. They did prior to this with my old switches. So I figure the signals and relay were fine since they were a couple of hours ago. Hmmm... I can't imagine whats up. Also... what are the wires coming out of the original clutch perch and...

Hmmm. Having some troubles with those turn signals still... I've wired everything up and headlight and horn work. Turn signals, not so much. Here's what I've got: Honda: Switches: White White Dark Blue Dark Blue Yellow/Black Blue/White Light Blue...

I notice its a lot easier to find 4mm connectors, and I've come across a number of people saying that when they need to replace just one side, either male or female, they go with 4mm and do both ends, instead of keeping with the original 3.5 Does anybody see an advantage to that? I have new...

Alright, so I don't really need them. Thanks!

Okay thank you

Hmmm. So i'm a bit confused by the two posts. I figured "P" was for parking.... which sounds more like Sonreir's answer. And I'd lean towards not hooking them up in that case. Deviant, I think you're saying that without hooking them up I'd have no rear turn signals? Would anybody else like to...

The battery was freshly charged. I'll try it again having charged the battery overnight again. As far as timing, I have a Pamco ignition. I wonder how I check the timing with that.

I got some aftermarket switches from Dime City, and for the most part the wiring makes sense. What I'm confused about is the "PL", "PR", and possibly "W" wires. I'm thinking the Gray wire on the switches (T/S Main/F.Relay) goes to the "W" on the bike, possibly. But what to do with the...

I had carb issues, and from all the starting and cranking the throttle I think I may have flooded everything and ruined my spark plugs... attached is a pic of them. All black and gross. After a bit it just plain wouldn't fire. Starter was going, but nothing. I removed, cleaned, and re-built my...

Okay, thank you.

Re: cb360 carb secondary jet tube. Is it supposed to screw ALL the way down? Here's a pic of it screwed down as far as I can get it. As we'll as one of of that discharge nozzle poking through the other side a few millimetres (hard to see, but its up about 3mm).

1975 cb360. I took apart my carbs, cleaned them, and rebuilt them with a kit. Tapping out that discharge nozzle in the middle with a piece of dowling was a pain (the little brass short tube that guides the needle from the diaphragm to the secondary jet emulsifier tube). And when putting it...

Thank you. i was hoping that I could just drain and remove the bowl, and maybe free up the float needle (if that was indeed what was happening). I guess I need to find a few hours to pull them off all together. Thanks again for the link.

Thanks very much for all your replies guys! Great ideas, and encouraging. Glad to know that this is a helpful forum as I have a 360 of my own as a bin of parts. I look forward to tapping you folks as a resource.

I realize that I'm replying with answers to my own thread, in case somebody else searches for the same issue. And also I'd love people's opinions, as well. But this seems like an option as well... although normal shifting is fun. http://www.efmautoclutch.com/index.shtml

Whoa... now this is interesting as well. http://www.constructorsrg.com/levers/sc2.html They have selectable ratios for their action. Presumably a ratio set on the softest-- or most leverage per pull, it would make the pull lighter than stock. What do you think?