1974 CB350 clutch push rod troubles

tenseventythree

Active Member
I have a bent clutch push rod. I ordered a replacement but I need to know how to remove the old one.
I can't find the procedure anywhere.

Need help.


1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

mydlyfkryzis

当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上,你可以道歉后
Remove the sprocket cover. It should slide out. Being bent, it will be a little harder.....But that's it, it just slides out...
 

tenseventythree

Active Member
mydlyfkryzis said:
Remove the sprocket cover. It should slide out. Being bent, it will be a little harder.....But that's it, it just slides out...

Thanks. I'll use more elbow grease.


1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

mydlyfkryzis

当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上,你可以道歉后
You will likely damage the seal when removing it, so get a new seal on hand for the replacement rod.
 

tenseventythree

Active Member
Yeah so this thing is a bitch to get out. I've got vice grips on it and I'm pulling like a mother. Should I go through the other side? Like the clutch cover side?


1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

tenseventythree

Active Member
Is a slide hammer too much for pulling this?


1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

mydlyfkryzis

当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上,你可以道歉后
Try removing the seal...It might give you a little more play....You are going to need one anyway.

How did it bend? Broken Chain?
 

tenseventythree

Active Member
mydlyfkryzis said:
Try removing the seal...It might give you a little more play....You are going to need one anyway.

How did it bend? Broken Chain?

Probably broken chain. Not sure. I bought it that way. An viscous oil leak alerted me and after reading a lot, I learned that it's not supposed to look that way.

Being a VW enthusiast I'm used to a little oil leaking. But proportionally it's too much.

I'll try removing the seal first and if it persists I'll try the slide hammer to get that 9 1/2 inch rod out.


1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

tenseventythree

Active Member
So I removed the seal. Still no luck. Then I went around and removed the right side cover. Dropped about all the oil onto my driveway. I removed the clutch plate Etc and knocked the rod out from the other side.


1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

tenseventythree

Active Member
All done but now I'm stuck on adjusting the clutch. I get close and then POP! And I have to start all over again. Is there a trick that I'm missing?


1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

mydlyfkryzis

当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上,你可以道歉后
Follow the instructions here...http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/48-engine-discussion/8701-350-360-clutch-adjustment-procedure.html

That is the most consistent instruction set.

The clutch is a balance of cable adjustment and release bearing adjustment.

You have to have the cable all the way screwed in at the clutch/sprocket cover, and as much slack on the lever screws as you can. Then adjust the release bearing (screw and lock nut on the sprocket cover) per the instructions, then adjust the cable at the cover, then the lever.

If you follow it exactly, you will have a well operating clutch. If not, try again....after a while, you get a good feel for the right spot.
 

tenseventythree

Active Member
Still popping. Is it a possibility that the actuator that hold the bearing is bent and only worked while I had the bent push rod in? Would I need a new actuator?

After tightening the cable adjuster at the cover, it pops when I squeeze the lever and it never gets to a point where it engages the clutch to allow the rear wheel to turn.

Should I spring for a new part?
Or should I continue to try to adjust according to the instructions?
A thing about the instructions. When I pull the lever to the grip it just goes back to the perch so...


1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

mydlyfkryzis

当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上,你可以道歉后
The cable may be too tight. The lever on the actuator should be facing down at about a 45 decree angle. Also,, have you cleaned out the actuator, checked the condition of the #10 ball, assembled with fresh, clean grease?

Also, the bottom ramp that the three balls ride in has a notch that should be over the corresponding tab in there.

You might of just adjusted wrong. Make sure the cable is fully slack and loose before adjusting the release mechanism. If you start with any tension, the ball ramp isn't in the minimum position, and you pull too far and the balls jump to the next ramp.

Their need to be slack in the lever too, so that you don't over pull the mechanism.

They are a pain in the butt to adjust, it takes a feel for the right amount of friction and turning, but they work well when adjusted, and stay adjusted quite a long time.
 

tenseventythree

Active Member
So I found this
qupagene.jpg

Chipped and cracked.
Drag.
Now I gotta find one. I hate living in a Harley town.


1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

tenseventythree

Active Member
Got the part, greased it up and adjusted a couple of times and I was back on the road. Thanks to all who replied.



1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

tenseventythree

Active Member
What's also cool is after all this, there are no more leaks and I found fifth gear!


1969 Suzuki M15-2
1971 Honda CB350
1974 Honda CL360
2012 Triumph Bonneville T100
 

a2benztech

New Member
7 years later... Just purchased a '73 CL350. Same problem. Trashed rod, cracked ramp actuator housing. New rod, new to me ebay cover and back on the trail. Thanks to

mydlyfkryzis for link and write up. And to 1073 for nice pic and follow up post.​

 

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