1989 BMW R80 build

I recently used oxalic acid while restoring a vintage bicycle. The results were little short of incredible. Were I doing a tank interior that's what I'd be using - you get left with clean, white metal.

Barkeepers Friend uses oxalic acid, and is perfect for gently yet effectively removing lightmrusting from chrome trim.
 
I've got some of that metal rescue in the tank as we speak and will have to rotate the tank as the week goes on. Hopefully it works as its not cheap.

I have dismantled the bike to just the frame and engine. I'm starting to rebuild from the front then move down the bike.

Does anyone know anything about relocating the ignition in the headlight. I've seen thus is the most common place to move it to but I need more information about how this is done as do you need a new ignition barrel or can you use the original?
 
I relocated mine to the side cover below the seat. When I got my /7, it was missing the headlight ring and lens and I couldn't find them for under $200. So, I bought a nice 7.5" headlight and moved the ignition switch along with the removing the board inside the bucket. I simplified my harness as well, so it's completely scratch built.

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Thanks for the reply. I won't be running side covers so doubt I'll move back the ignition that far back.

Did you purchase a new ignition and how did you fix it solidly to the side cover?

What I'm struggling with is if I decided to move somewhere on the frame I'm not sure how to fix it securely.
 
Karl1989 said:
Thanks for the reply. I won't be running side covers so doubt I'll move back the ignition that far back.

Did you purchase a new ignition and how did you fix it solidly to the side cover?

What I'm struggling with is if I decided to move somewhere on the frame I'm not sure how to fix it securely.
They're basically made like any panel mount switch. All you need is a whole in flat sheet metal to secure it. The switch is threaded with a bolt to the outside and one to the inside. I machined a cap to go under the outside screw to give it clean look and to prevent torquing the nut down on my paint.
 
Update. I’ve relocated the ignition with the headlight bucket. Not able to check whether I’ve done it correctly at this stage at bike is in bits.

I’ve also got an Acewell Speedo to install and have hit a stumbling block. The instructions are quite vague.

I’ve snipped the rubber head that used to plug in the back of by old speedo and there is around 10 wires within the sleeve. I don’t have a clue which colour is what and there is no guidance in my Haynes manual.

Anyone know how I can find this out or the easiest way of installing this speedo?
 

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Sorry I cant help with the wiring....but what is that hiding in the background with the white wheel and a slick mounted?
 
Key switch looks good. I prefer the slot vertical, so when it's switched on the key folds down. As far as resources, you need the Clymer manual. It's by far the best resource for airheads and has all the wiring diagrams and whatnot. There really is no other source information better except maybe Snowbum's website http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/
 
Sorry for the late reply. The white rim and slick in the background is my pitbike supermoto which I have been racing in the British Minibike Championship this year (poorly I might add).

Still haven't quite got my head round the speedo electrics so am calling upon some help of my father when he has the time over Christmas.

In the meantime I'm get my wheels powder coated in gloss black and whilst their off am thinking of tyre options.

My wheel sizes are 3.25 19 front and 4 18 rear I think. I want something that looks like a cafe racer tyre but performs and is safe. Anyone know much about the mitas tyres or the Avon speed master safety range?
 
IMHO the most "cafe racer" tire is the best performing tire you can afford. I also like the Am26 or also the BT-45, but for that you will have to run modern equivalent sizes (120/90/18 & 100/90/19)
 
I run the Metzeler Lastertec on my /7. I like them. I ran them on my CB750 too.
 
I'm having trouble removing the rear wheel on the R80. I've taken all bolts off and the wheel is loose as it rocks side to side but it won't come off. If I rotate the wheel slightly it get stiffer and feels like it wedges which she stops the movement. Any ideas?

On another note, anyone know what the throttles are like on these? mine doesn't snap back, just slowly moves back into position. I've checked the cables and they snap back when out of the throttle housing, carb springs are fine too. Throttle stick screw is is fine too.
 
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